Ok, so I have recovered from the smoldering wood chip issue and am back on-line dry-washing my fuel. However, I have been testing it more rigorously and finding some anomalies.
1) Pass 3/27
2) Demeth, and settle. Then for the last batch I even put 5 gallons of water in to water wash. Drained and dried. Tested with a SandyBrae and was very low, like 200ppm.
3) Ran it through the Eco2pure and Thermax resin. The Eco2pure was new 1 or 2 batches ago and the Thermax was regenerated by washing with methanol and dried. The beads turned back to light tan. I am estimating the Thermax over the last 18 months had washed about 500 gallons of bio.
Here is what is interesting. Doing a soap test with Bromo Blue and .01M HCL bought from Nebraska Bio, I am clearly 'passing' the soap test. After blanking my iso-propyl/bromo, I get a nice dark blue. Now just by putting my dry washed bio takes it turns the bromo all the way to yellow with no acid. No soap right? However, if I do a shake'em test, my water is not clear. Its a little cloudy, and I want to say its kind of brown cloudy and not soapy cloudy but I just don't know.
Any ideas? Is the Thermax dead? I never used Eco2pure before. When I dry washed perviously, I used red oak bark. However, I got to be honest, once I passed that first soap test and did a shake'em test 2 years ago (which I remember as being clear), I might not have ever done another shake'em test again, only soap tests. So I have no way of knowing what is going on. I am circulating really slow, like 5 gallons an hour. I am using 2 54" resin tanks (9 inch diameter), a lead full of Eco2pure and the about 24 inches of Thermax in the second column.
The only thing I didn't do was pre-soak the Thermax again. Could this be causing the issue?
I am not sure here doug but maybe your bio is acidic now not soapy may need to titrate for the acid number to check. I say this as bromo changes through that yellow green blue transition zone before going blue/purple to go from yellow to blue with no transition color would indicate a good deal of acid? perhaps someone else could help here.
Test the ph at each step in the process to see if you can identify exactly where it's going acidic.
I am confused.
Isn't going acidic, the entire point of dry washing and that if you have acidic biodiesel its an indication of no soap? My understanding is the wood chips and Thermax remove the K+/Na+ from the soap, leaving you with some form of FFA - hence the rise in acidity. This is why dry washing doesn't pass ATSM standards as it leaves your bio too acidic. The Bromo Blue/HCL test is exactly testing that. Bromo Blue is tri-color: Blue/Green/Yellow, and is Blue above 4.6 ph and yellow by 3.0 ph. Wikipedia
Before, sending the bio through the columns, I also preform a Bromo soap test, and my bio was about 1000ppm soap.
So, the anomaly I was originally questioning about wasn't why I was so acidic, but why was the water cloudy? Perhaps my understanding is way off.This message has been edited. Last edited by: Doug Weiner,
I should have read your post more closely. I don't know why the water was cloudy.
what sort of water are you doing the shake test with?If it is hard water, with a lot of lime present it might be a reaction between the FFA and lime-swapping to distilled or deionised should cure that,if that is the cause-other thoughts,red oak resin residue in the thermax maybe
Its my tap water from the City of Los Angeles, and I don't think its too hard, but I will switch ane let you know... The other thing to note is that this batched was a re-processed batch, but not sure what that has to do with anything. Oh and after days of more settling, the water is more clear now, but not 'read a newspaper clear'
Another thought is how you washed the thermax? It could also be that you simply have a little leftover glycerin. If the thermax was not washed very well it could simply be that you had a slug of glycerin go through with the first batch as soon as it was re-wetted. When we wash our beads now the first wash of methanol has almost an 'oatmeal' colour to it... brown/tan coloured.
Also I've had issues with eco2pure before where it was adding resin to the bio. A simple test to this I found was to add a small amount of methanol in a beaker with some un-used eco2pure. If the methanol goes amber/biodiesel coloured then it has resin left in it. Although from your description (several batches through the eco2pure) it doesn't sound like this is the case.
Have you thought of trying the shake-em-up with distilled or de-ionized water? Water supply utilities put quite a lot of chemical in water to get it potable.