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Hi DW

Adding water isnt a necesarry step, it only removes some of the soap before sending the raw biodiesel thru the dry wash. I found it helpful when I was using shavings, but it doesnt matter so much with sawdust, altho I still do it if I have a batch which titrates above 2.5.

You dont need to mist wash. With a 110L batch I sprinkled 5 litres hot water in with a garden watering can. The longer you leave it the more soap will be absorbed into the water, but overnight is fine.

I didnt use KOH, and one of the reasons I added the water was to prevent residual NaOH glycerol setting in my pipes. So this isnt a benefit with KOH glycerol, which as you know remians liquid.
 
Location: Scotland | Registered: 19 March 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
GCG
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NS,

As to your question about adding (hot) water before or after the removal of methanol:

Although water added when hot will settle much better (in the rendering industry a min. temp. of 140 deg. and usually a top temp. of 180 deg. F is used) than if added the next day after the demethed batch has cooled - you still run the risk of some water in the biodiesel so it is a timing a process thing.

We don't do this because water really impacts the frequency of flushes on the ion exchange resin columns. However if I did do this and I might try this since we're talking about it - I would wait until the batch was completely demethed - we usually can get to about .20% (2000 ppm) with out excessively heating the batch. Then I'd do my first trial add about 3.0% water by the biodiesel batches volume thru a misting ring or misting nozzle. Let it settle overnight - drain the bottom off and spray the biodiesel into our large cone bottom settling tank (hopefully the spraying would drive off some of the water remaining in the biodiesel).

Then Perform a water test using the calcium hydride Sandy Brae kit (want to see <0.05% or <500 ppm) This keeps the water content to <25% that of the methanol content.

We then pump directly to an Eco2Pure Column (wood fiber, sawdust, molecular seive mixture) and then through the ion exchange resins...

If you do this anytime soon let us know what you find out.

GCG PS what's good about adding the water before the glycerin drop is you know the glycerin is going to take all the water with it... just makes the methanol recovery from glyecerin later a little more challenging...
 
Location: Michigan | Registered: 08 May 2007Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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I think we've all got our lines crossed here. The thread is about resins, but things then seemed to shift to sawdust. Doing a 5% wash doesnt prolongue resin life, as GCG says - I've tried it and the resin didnt last any longer, but I wasnt talking about doing a 5% wash, but merely pouring hot water into the oil at the end of the processing, so that the oil doesnt become damp. However I would recommend the 5% wash with sawdust and shavings with higher titrating oil, ie above 2.5.

Using sawdust/shavings isnt the same as using resin, although they can be used in the same set up. However, removing the wood from a resin tower at renewal time is troublesome. Much more wood is needed than resin, at least if its to be effective for any length of time before changing. Wood tolerates water and methanol much longer than resin but needs a slower flow rate, especially shavings.
 
Location: Scotland | Registered: 19 March 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by GCG:
NS,

As to your question about adding (hot) water before or after the removal of methanol:

Although water added when hot will settle much better (in the rendering industry a min. temp. of 140 deg. and usually a top temp. of 180 deg. F is used) than if added the next day after the demethed batch has cooled - you still run the risk of some water in the biodiesel so it is a timing a process thing.

We don't do this because water really impacts the frequency of flushes on the ion exchange resin columns. However if I did do this and I might try this since we're talking about it - I would wait until the batch was completely demethed - we usually can get to about .20% (2000 ppm) with out excessively heating the batch. Then I'd do my first trial add about 3.0% water by the biodiesel batches volume thru a misting ring or misting nozzle. Let it settle overnight - drain the bottom off and spray the biodiesel into our large cone bottom settling tank (hopefully the spraying would drive off some of the water remaining in the biodiesel).

Then Perform a water test using the calcium hydride Sandy Brae kit (want to see <0.05% or <500 ppm) This keeps the water content to <25% that of the methanol content.

We then pump directly to an Eco2Pure Column (wood fiber, sawdust, molecular seive mixture) and then through the ion exchange resins...

If you do this anytime soon let us know what you find out.

GCG PS what's good about adding the water before the glycerin drop is you know the glycerin is going to take all the water with it... just makes the methanol recovery from glyecerin later a little more challenging...


Hey pard, long time no see Smile how are you measuring the methanol level?
 
Location: West Michigan | Registered: 26 April 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
GCG
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Hey Fab,

I usually use a flash point tester and a chart. Basically the flash point corresponds to a particular level of methanol.

However realizing that everyone doesn't have access to this kind of equipment I have found a way to test methanol concentrations fairly accurately down between the 0.5-1% range and am working to get it down to ASTM levels. This way all homebrewers can start checking for this data and it will provide us a huge pool of new analysis...

Speaking of not seeing you - I hope to be over your way in the next week, are you going to be around?

GCG
 
Location: Michigan | Registered: 08 May 2007Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Yeah, I'll be here off and on just give me a call or an email and I'll make sure I'm here, you wouldn't recognize my refinery any more. Big Grin
 
Location: West Michigan | Registered: 26 April 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by GCG:
Hey Fab,

I usually use a flash point tester and a chart. Basically the flash point corresponds to a particular level of methanol.

However realizing that everyone doesn't have access to this kind of equipment I have found a way to test methanol concentrations fairly accurately down between the 0.5-1% range and am working to get it down to ASTM levels. This way all homebrewers can start checking for this data and it will provide us a huge pool of new analysis...

Speaking of not seeing you - I hope to be over your way in the next week, are you going to be around?

GCG


GCG can you please post your chart? I have access to a closed cup flash tester. Would be interested to know what % methanol that corresponds to.

Also what is your homebrewer flash point method?? I know an open cup one where u simply heat it with a thermometer only touching the fluid, and wave a bbq lighter over the top. When it ignites record your flash temp..is this like urs?
 
Registered: 02 March 2009Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Personally and IMHO...

IF you get the whole process Right and using a suitable system such as the GL 'Eco-System'
Then Resins and Eco-Craps(tm) are not needed.

I made a 100 litre batch yesterday, settled overnight, filtered an hour or so ago, and its in the car now...

After settling (the effectiveness of which depends on both the quality of Conversion as well as the De-Meth phase) the fuel is clear enough to read through.

This after filtering down to 1 mic, and there is no quantities of soap left to speak of...


--------------------------
www.doctordiesel.co.uk


"As for testing, know now that----
only mechanisms built by bunglers require testing.---
Properly-built machines work properly." 'Doc' Smith.
 
Location: Swansea, U.K. | Registered: 09 March 2002Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
GCG
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quote:


GCG can you please post your chart? I have access to a closed cup flash tester. Would be interested to know what % methanol that corresponds to.

Also what is your homebrewer flash point method?? I know an open cup one where u simply heat it with a thermometer only touching the fluid, and wave a bbq lighter over the top. When it ignites record your flash temp..is this like urs?



Sorry this took so long - been busy...

Here you go (this is right off the Purolite Webpage material:



GCG
 
Location: Michigan | Registered: 08 May 2007Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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