I don t like water washing bio anymore, because it takes to much time. Do you have any idea what is the best and save way to wash it? Is ok not to wash it but only settle it long time in garage? Is needed that settle tank is open top or sealed because of methanol vapours? What about air washing?Is OK to just use aquarium air pump to bubble unwashed bio?
Air washing evaporate methanol, and thats leads soaps fall out.
Fall out takes time, if you want all out, for long as its possible, like month.
If you want to fasten this you may dry wash
for examble with wood sawdust. Its better if its hardwood.
I make batch and dont remove glyc. Demeth bio and glyc together,beware of back reaction.
After demeth, one hour settle for glyc to drop down i drain glyc of and continue demeth bio.
Transfer to another tank to " air wash" remaining meth with aquarium pump.
After day or two i drywash through tower full of sawdust. First i
Tried shavings but they didn't work well, sawdust better.
Best regards Tatu
Which sawdust do you have? I tried with spruce sawdust but nothing happened. I also don t like sawdust because of spontaneous fire...
Any picture of your sawdust drier?
I use birch sawdust, and its very dry.
Others use mostly oak, but here where i live, its too rare.
Probably oak gives better results.
My tower is 3" wide and 78" tall, made from PP drain pipe.
Its hold about 2,5 gallons (10 L) sawdust. Iam planing to
make second pipe to improve results.
Oil is circulating via circulating pump about 6-7 gph (30L/H)
couple of hours.
I take few pictures after work and try to upload here.
Its crude looking but they work.
Tower is full of oil allways so i dont worry about fire.
Here's the picture of settling tank, circulating pump and lower part of dry wash tower. First i was pumping to downstream, but lately i changed it go to upstream. Clean bio games out of the top, through filter. Simple as that.
Tower is in temporary support now, as you can see. This is still experiment version but soon i make second tower and final support for that.
This is easy way to clean up bio. Just leave pump on for few hours and that's it.
In tower, what i have research, must by sawdust, Shavings don't work. Sawdust is made like across the wood grain, therefore grain is still open to impurity, like soap. Shavings don't have this feature.
This is my opinion, correct if i am wrong.
Hope this helped.
Wash_tower.jpg (45 Kb, 58 downloads)
If what you are interested in is air washing only then I suggest you read up on Graham Laming's site.
He has been using this type of system for some time now with good success. No water. No chips and/or resin.
** Biodiesel Glycerine Soap - The Guide
- on 5 continents helping people make & sell soap from the Biodiesel Glycerine.
is safe to fill pvc like on this link full of sawdust or it s too small for filtering 100 l batch??
Dear Legal Eagle I've been making Bio from reasonably good quality oil that titrates usually 3 KOH at most but many a time less! A guy is asking me after 11 or so years what is the procedure to make bio! I thought it best to refresh what is happening here on the Forum before telling him what I do but rather see what the latest info is on washing......
My memory is still reasonable even though I'm pushing 78 and I thought that when I decided to make
biodiesel I saw bio lyle in the USA and like his way of clearing the finished biodiesel by bubbling it but not with water involved..... I tried many a time with water but found the finished bio was more prone to getting faults with water & so just bubbling - on the proviso that it is done long enough it suffices...... I noticed that methanol is also driven off quickly but as I have a separate clearing drum with a coned bottom I loose a bit of Meth to the tune of 3%........as opposed to recovery in a single processor before clearing.......
If my patience is lacking the finished fuel may well have a small amount of glycerol in it so I keep telling myself that I must behave and have patience. I'll read your reccomended Graham Laming post post now ..... I'm wondering if it's the same method as Mr Lyle? Best wishes Mick in the UK
In addition to the above I have now read Graham Laming's instructions on 'clearing' biodiesel.....
It is different to Bio Lyle's method whereby Graham does not bubble in that instance.
The other day I noticed after leaving some processed bio diesel for over a week that had some glycerol in it I continued to bubble the 175 litres (approx) and sure enough there was about a pint of glycerol
that separated out after resuming the bubbling process......... The bottom of the vessle is steeply cone shaped and when I see there is no further glycerol or lets say discolored/contaminated fluid I consider that the fuel above does not contain any further contaminants.......
A company who have many heavy goods vehicles used to make Bio Diesel and the manager of that company approached me re my use of that wonderful product Bio Diesel because he could small it on the clean exhaust fumes....... We had a bit of a discussion on the subject and I asked him why don't you make it now..... His reply was that " we could not get rid of all the glycerol" and it caused us problems!
I did not go into the technical aspects of 'his' method of producing 'his' fuel and 'his' method of clearing the fuel and in any case it seemed that he had plenty to do rather than gossip about the pros and cons of making Bio but I did say to him-- Ah yes there is one golden rule about making Bio & that is the maker must pay scrupulous attention to the fact that the finished product must not under any circumstances have any crap in it!
Patience is a virtue re the clearing process and I thank Mr Lyle (2008) for directing me to his method re a little twin 'fish tank' bubbler and a bit of silicone or better still viton tube that goes to the porous 'stone' or lime tree wood about 2" x 1" sq x 2 and that other 'ingredient' patience!
What vehicle are you burning your bio in ?