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Member |
Welcome to the world of the unwashed.
Sounds like you have it all figured out and are on your way to less work in producing BD. I would definitely demeth the BD as it enables the soap to fall out of solution. |
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member 2009 Sponsor |
My resin purification set up. Perhaps offer a few ideas ?
![]() **My reactor/processor :B100WH.com ** Video of my system **The Colaborative Biodiesel Tutorial **B100 Heated Winter System ** Biodiesel Glycerine Soap - Make & sell soap from Biodiesel Glycerine |
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member 2009 Sponsor |
Banshee,
If you can settle for a few weeks to a month you may not even need the resin tanks. I start out with nice dry feedstock and am very precise with the chemistry, titrating down to the tenth of a milliliter. I react at 135F with 22 percent methanol and a KOH base of 8. It just doesn't make much soap. I do a 5 percent cold water prewash, settle out the glycerol over night, and then demeth using a venturi on the processor and a "plumbers delight" condensor. I recover about 2 liters off a 175 liter batch. Then I bubble air through the still hot unfinished fuel for about 12 hours to drive off any remaining methanol. I settle for 2 weeks at most and then heat to 115F, circulate to dry with a fan, cool and then filter through a CAT 2 micron filter. I've been putting together a soda pop keg filtering system, but haven't yet put it into use. My last soap titration showed only 150ppm, so I'm really in no hurry. If you have the luxury of the settling time you mentioned, you definitely don't need to be water washing. That's just wasting water in my opinion. Good luck! "mixing up a bunch of magic stuff" Al 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD - B100 2005 Ford F250 6.0 -B100 Kubota BX 2300 - B100 Lopi Republic 1250 - Glycerol/Sawdust Logs |
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Member |
Hi Banshee, its unnecessary to settle for so long. Its better to make the biodiesel, leave overnight to catch any residual glycerol then do your dry washing. After that you can let it settle for a few days if you like, but not weeks or months. In fact, leaving biodiesel so long might incur oxidation and microbial problems. Adding a little RUG will discourage microbial growth.
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Member |
Really, Jehu? Like How much %? I'm making more bio than I can use. I wonder about the fuel going bad/rancid. I keep it sealed in a drum blanketed with inert welding gas, for now. Brian 1996 K2500 4x4 6.5TD |
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Member |
I am not sure about RUG.I was using this to blend for winter use, but am now under the impression it may be wrong. It has a high octane and you need high cetane the higher the octane the lower the cetane? If you want to stop microbial action use a biocide there has been a few mentioned on here.
I would also perform 50/50 shakem test and find the ph of the water to keep a check for acidity and deterioration |
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Member |
Weldshop, as far as I know petrol kills everything. I'm not saying it will keep biodiesel from oxidising or make it last indefinitely. Bear in mind that petrol itself goes off, like the stuff in my boat engine which is stored over the winter. I'm suggesting RUG as a short term cure for microbial growth.
Gilfish, its quite common to add RUG to biodiesel. Water content and pH are quality issues with the biodiesel itself which RUG isnt going to cure. |
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Member |
How many times are you circulating settled bio through the wood chips and/or resin? Only once?
Thanks Doug |
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