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Improving Biodiesel color

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July 26, 2017, 11:34 PM
Yuka
Improving Biodiesel color
Activated clays for bleaching vegetable oils.


Bottom line, we dont want to use the clays to bleach the oil prior to process.
We want to bleach our final and polished product, just to improve color.


I want to mix the clay (fullers earth, bentonite, zeolite) with the sawdust in the column.

Could this work?

Thanks.
Eduardo.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Yuka,
July 27, 2017, 02:21 AM
WesleyB
Bleaching? I think you need to remove the brown colored material. I made biodiesel with methanol. I treated it with magnesium silicate at 60 degrees centigrade for 30 minutes with agitation, fast stirring. The magnesium silicate I used was a white powder. That was an acid esterification procedure, I would have to find my notebook on it. But after magnesium silicate treatment of about 2 grams per litre of biodiesel, the white magnesium silicate powder was brown before vacuum filtration with 1 micrometer porus filter paper to remove all the powder that had not settled out. Bleaching solvated, dissolved materials introduces chlorine bleach into the material (biodiesel) so that chlorine is in the exhaust of the vehicles (bad). Removing the colored material rather than decomposing it with bleach is probably a better choice for better clean product . A company in Dallas, Texas used to make and sell Magnesol, which may have been food grade magnesium silicate for use in restaurants. Bleaching decomposes materials that remain in the biodiesel, removing the colored materials may be a better choice. The bleach is still in the biodiesel too it burns and goes out the exhaust.
July 27, 2017, 08:19 AM
Yuka
Thanks Wesley.


I didnt meant bleach. I meant removing color, but it seems for fuel the correct term is bleaching.
I said bleaching materials like powder clays. Calcium Bentonite, zeolite, etc. Even Magnesol, never chloride. Im not that rookie.

Only using them as a filter media, like if it were ion exchange resin. No temp, no agitation.

Thanks again.
July 27, 2017, 04:58 PM
Dgs
Hi Yuka, Although silicates like magnesol and sepiolite will lighten the colour of the biodiesel they are not as effective as leaving the biodiesel in the sun to bleach.

Apparantly the action of the U/V produces free radicals that will bleach most of the colour out of the bio. The results are quite amazing.

It may be possible to use a U/V light inside a tube that you recirculate the bio through.

Just looking through your post again, calcium bentonite doesn't work as regards reducing the colour. If you mix sepiolite with your wood chips it will work to an extent but the sepiolite soon gets 'spent'

Leave a cubie of your bio in the sun and you will see what I mean.
July 27, 2017, 05:13 PM
Yuka
Thanks DGS.
Will give it a try with the cubie and try to adapt a UV light for our continous process.

Does it affect the Biodiesel quality?
Accelerates degradation?
Where does the fade go?

Thanks again.
Yuka.
July 27, 2017, 05:23 PM
Dgs
I've used this proceedure for years and have never noticed any difference in quality or any degredation of the bio.

The free radicals attack the carotenoids in the biodiesel. As to why the colour changes I have no idea.

Yuka, I've sent you a pm.
July 27, 2017, 09:34 PM
Yuka
Thanks DGS.
Will give it a try with the cubie and try to adapt a UV light for our continous process.

Does it affect the Biodiesel quality?
Accelerates degradation?
Where does the fade go?

Thanks again.
Yuka.
July 28, 2017, 07:06 AM
Dgs
Those U/V filters that are in the picture could work. Your bio would have to be recirculated until you could see the colour changing which could take some time.

If you used a economical pump then maybe this would be something you could leave switched on for extended periods.

Is the centrifuge you use pressure or motor driven.
July 28, 2017, 01:13 PM
Dgs
That centrifuge looks superb, wish I had something like that. Let us know the results of your cubie test.
July 06, 2018, 11:19 AM
Chaymiranda
Hi Yuma hi Wesley I’m Ruben and I’ve Been reading your post and I’d to know and see ( if I could) In pictures how you do dry wash!! I read that talco Could work but I have not done this, have you done? Please help me to don’t waste more water!!
July 07, 2018, 10:59 PM
WesleyB
Chaymiranda; I dry wash using magnesium silicate powder. Heat the biodiesel to 60 degrees centigrade then with stirring or ajitation/ mixing add magnesium silicate powder. mix fifteen minutes. Then remove heat and mixing let the powder settle. For small amounts pour off the biodiesel leaving the white powder behind, then filter to ensure the powder is entirely removed. That's how I've done it. A brand name Magnesol may be mostly magnesium silicate.
July 08, 2018, 12:24 PM
RickDaTech
Chaymiranda,

Dgs sent me a few pictures and an explanation of how he uses Magnesol to polish his water washed biodiesel. I hope it helps.

Dry Washing with Magnesol

The site also contains descriptions of other methods of dry washing.

You can also search this site and the archive site for other methods of dry washing, although coming up with effective search filters can be challenging.

Lately, the most popular method of waterless washing is to use wood chips.

Rick





www.Make-Biodiesel.org





July 08, 2018, 01:37 PM
Chaymiranda
Thanks Wesley and rick!!
I have never washed my diesel with Magnesol but I will.
I have other questions and I would like that you gays give me your opinion and your experience so the thing is that I make biodiesel with base-base (I believe that it is called) I mean using NaOH and metanol as jorney to forever says but I have been many problems following those instructions therefore I read that many people is making biodiesel using acid-base method. Could you tell me what is the best way to make biodiesel? As your experience says!
Saludos desde Mexico amigos.
July 09, 2018, 04:49 AM
WesleyB
I use the one step base/methanol method generally. I use potassium hydroxide usually. I have done the acid method using a free fatty acid (stearic acid) , methanol , heat , and concentrated sulfuric acid. There are some problems with acid esterification. Is your English language understanding good? I studied chemistry in a University and can explain most of it.
July 09, 2018, 03:43 PM
Chaymiranda
Yes I can get you well if you write actually I’m studying chemistry but you know at college doesn’t teach you how to make biodiesel unfortunately but it doesn’t matter this is why I’m here.
I’d like to tell you that I’ve made biodiesel using KOH in virgin oil and It was great it worked ( you can see in the picture)
quote:
well, but there are many questions that I have for example when I do the tritiation I weigh a gram of KOH and I put it in a litter or destilled water and then I do the tritiation ( I use 10 ml de isopropyl alcohol and a ml of wvo) but I read that i have to make a stock solution (Mix exactly 5 grams of NaOH with exactly 500 millilitres of distilled water in the 1-litre PET bottle. This makes a "stock solution")
Before titration, measure out 5 ml of the stock solution, add 45 ml of distilled water and mix. This makes a 0.1% w/v lye solution, accurate to three decimal places.

What do you thing about it?
Do you do it?
July 09, 2018, 05:24 PM
WesleyB
I bought a professionally prepared 0.050 Normal Sodium Hydroxide stock solution to do my titrations with. I bought it from Hach Company by mail order. I don't know if you can buy it from Mexico.
July 09, 2018, 06:41 PM
Chaymiranda
Yes I can, can you tell me how is called the thing that you bought?
July 09, 2018, 06:45 PM
Tilly
Hi Chaymiranda,
Welcome to the forum

quote:
Originally posted by Chaymiranda:
... for example when I do the tritiation I weigh a gram of KOH and I put it in a litter or destilled water and then I do the tritiation
This is the most accurate method of titrating WVO if you want to make biodiesel and this is the method all backyard produces of biodiesel who I am aware of use.



quote:
... but I read that i have to make a stock solution (Mix exactly 5 grams of NaOH with exactly 500 millilitres of distilled water in the 1-litre PET bottle. This makes a "stock solution")
Before titration, measure out 5 ml of the stock solution, add 45 ml of distilled water and mix. This makes a 0.1% w/v lye solution, accurate to three decimal places.

What do you thing about it?
Do you do it?
Where did you read this?
I have never seen this procedure recommended for biodiesel production and know of No one who uses this method.

The first method you described using 1g KOH mixed into 1 litre of water is just as accurate for determining the amount of Caustic required to perform the neutralization of the acid in the WVO.

Stick with the first method.






July 09, 2018, 08:19 PM
Chaymiranda
Thanks Till,your experience will help me, so you have been using this method successfully for a long time? As I wrote I’ve made biodiesel using 1 gr of KOH or NaOH in a litter of water to make my solution but I’d like to know how others make it.
Wesley why do you use that Normalidad? I already called to hach company they sell a product called tritralab automatic that I can be use to do the tritiation but I don’t know if it is besides I ask for the stock solución to 0.05N ( I thing that I can be make in home just using the forum of Nornmalidad) what do you think?
July 09, 2018, 09:43 PM
WesleyB
I used the 0.050 Normal strength designation because that is what is given on the label of the bottle I use. Sodium hydroxide is 40 grams per mole, so 0.050 times 40 equals 2 grams per litre in an exact amount. I can titrate free fatty acids in vegetable oil to get a good answer based on a professionally standardized solution. My answer is in grams of sodium hydroxide per litre of vegetable oil. The catalogue number for this solution from Hach Company is 14764-53 if you need a reference number to order it from them. You can make your own titration fluid by easy method. Weigh accurately 1 gram potassium hydroxide or sodium hydroxide, then dilute with 1 litre of distilled water. I have used the sodium hydroxide standardized solution I bought, just assuming it is accurate.