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Dry wash with wood chips
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So I have googled hardwood sawdust, pellets, shavings, ect... where does everyone find there hardwood sawdust?? I live in the Seattle area if anyone here has any suggestions?? Still wondering if hardwood pellets for a pellet stove would work? Seems like the only easy way to get hardwood anything? Also what do you do with the sawdust when you change it out with fresh sawdust?
 
Registered: January 05, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Cabinet makers, furiture builders. Or you can try these guys, they are in seattle. Or one of this list might help.

When used up it can be either composted or used in a wood stove.

HTH; I use the IxQuick search engine, better than Google.



** Biodiesel Glycerine Soap - The Guide
- on 5 continents helping people make & sell soap from the Biodiesel Glycerine.


 
Location: :-) Great White North eh ? | Registered: December 10, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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My first attempt drywashing with wood chips was a full fail. Allthough the bio came out clear, the shake test resulted in milk with cream. I asume that was due to white wood shavings used, and all I managed to do was to wash out all the gum and resin with the bio. The bio also has a bit of snotty feel between the fingers. So I saved the bio for another day and turned to hard red wood.
I am aware of the fire hazard, but it is so much more easy to tinker with plastic. Here I have placed a 180L drum on top of a 210L drum and use gravity.


To limit oxygen, only one hole was made at the bottom and strainers fitted to the running nipple bung. The bung can be closed off with an end cap after use.


Hardwood was located at a company that imports Mopani braai wood from Namibia. (Braai = national sport by cooking meat over an open fire, BBQ = the same on propane only it is not the same) Smile This is serious hardwood baked under the Africa sun with basically zero resin and high tannin if I can believe their rep on site.


The next batch will go through this and will only know the results in the next few days.



The chips are more splinters than shavings but does contain a lot of fine bark.


Land Cruiser 4.2tdi, Figo 1.4tdci,
W123 240d
 
Location: Bottom tip of Africa, Port Elizabeth | Registered: January 20, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Your wood looks far too coarse. I'd bet the biodiesel contains as much soap as resin. You really need to get a source of fine stuff, or else get a mulcher to grind down your wood. You want the wood to be no bigger than muesli or soup mix for best results, otherwise you'll need to circulate.

Your drums are a bit precarious looking too. I have my shavings drum on a stand and the biodiesel drops into a long low tank. This also means that the flow can be observed and samples taken for testing.

Its not a big job to adjust your set up - finer wood and a better tank arrangement should see more success.
 
Location: Scotland | Registered: March 19, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
6



hi can anyone tell me whats in eco2pure or better still give me a receipe on how to make it. Iam told it is just wood shavings but it must be more than that thanks
 
Registered: March 06, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Eco2pure is sawdust mixed with some aluminium silicate. The wood's been properly washed (with methanol I suppose, but I dont know) and dried to remove resin and water. The people who use it like it. I would use it but I'm happy with ordinary hardwood sawdust and living with the resin thats flushed out in the first batch. I dont think theres a significant difference in biodiesel quality otherwise.
 
Location: Scotland | Registered: March 19, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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I believe it has some zeolite 3a for water absorbtion but that's it. Fine woodchips. Hardwood preferably red oak. That's it.
 
Location: Los Angeles | Registered: March 25, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
aluminium silicate

So I assume we're not talking about Kaolin (hydrated aluminum silicate)... or are we? I know Kaolin is used as a filtering agent.
Any chemists reading this?
 
Location: SE Ma  | Registered: November 06, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Thanks Jehu, I do agree with the drum set up, but first needed to see how it all works. Got it right, the drywash !!!! After I posted I went back and just ran the remaining bio from the processor through the chips and I came out crystal clear, not even a hint of white in the water shaker. So all I need to do first is flush the chips beforehand. Just to make sure, I brewed another batch and ran it through the chips, perfectly crystal clear. Now Jehu, I will go and fix up a proper setup.


Land Cruiser 4.2tdi, Figo 1.4tdci,
W123 240d
 
Location: Bottom tip of Africa, Port Elizabeth | Registered: January 20, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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If you put a piece of 24"square piece of plywood between the two barrels (with appropriate holes drilled in it to accommodate the drain pipe, you will regain stability and structural integrity. The plywood will transfer the weight to the lip/wall of the bottom barrel as well as provide a stable platform for the top one.

Doug
 
Location: Los Angeles | Registered: March 25, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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...but that still doesnt allow him to get access to the tap if he wants to stop it for any reason, observe the flow rate or take samples.
 
Location: Scotland | Registered: March 19, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Hi,
My system just has the top (30gal) barrel on two spaced 2x4's.
It's pretty stable once loaded, and I can reach in for a running sample or kill the drain valve.
It also keeps everything atmospheric pressure.



1996 K2500 4x4 6.5TD
 
Location: Southern Indiana USA | Registered: June 20, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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Hey Everybody,

I've been reading this thread for a while and seen talk about testing soaps. Has anyone tested for other contaminants? Like residual catalyst, glycerides, etc.?

Have people tested 'chip-run' bio in a PHLip test?

I just bought a 2003 7.3 F350 and want to be sure what I should test for so I don't mess it up.
 
Location: SE Ma  | Registered: November 06, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Thanks for the suggestions on construction, but I still have some Q's on the filter. Yes the hardwood I got is too coarse and I only managed to wash the dust out of it without real results on the bio. The first chips I used was pine and the "failed" first filter was the resins that washed out. This I read up elsewhere on this forum. That would the be why the 2nd pass came out clear.

Q1. The 100 odd litre bio that is now contaminated with the resin, should I discard or add it with wvo and re-process.
Q2. The obvious to do with methanol used to rinse the chips would be to distill, ..but what if used to process. Will the resin "process" out or would it just contaminate the batch?

Digging out 180L of used wood chips is no fun. Been thinking if packing it in smaller cheap 40% shadeloth bags and dumping that into the filter drum.


Land Cruiser 4.2tdi, Figo 1.4tdci,
W123 240d
 
Location: Bottom tip of Africa, Port Elizabeth | Registered: January 20, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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A1. I've edited this reply since making a discovery: If the biodiesel is left for a day or so the resin will drop out by itself as white floculance. I am going to adopt this.


A2. Resin doesnt evaporate, so if you distil the methanol the resin will be left behind. The methanol will be fine for re-use.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Jehu,
 
Location: Scotland | Registered: March 19, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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After some time using a 200lt drum system to drywash with mahogany I believe I know why it works now. It is not the tannins in hardwood. Some users have had success with softwoods once they get all the extra sap and resin out. Hardwood is better because it has less sap and resin in it. Red oak is better because it has an exeptionally open grain structure,hence more surface area. They all work because the wood has an affinity for wood alcohol, methanol, and draws it out of the bio; Jehu has noted this before. Without the cosolvent of methanol the soap drops out of the bio and is then trapped in the fibrous surface area of the shavings or dust. I believe this because I have watched bio above the sawdust, that has not yet touched it, shed soap. I believe the sawdust is absorbing the methanol which then redistributes to even out the gradient and is sucked out some more. This continues untill the soap comes out. If I am right you should be able to regenerate the sawdust by simple hot water washing and drying to remove the soap and methanol. I seem to remember someone has had success with this already.


mathematical elegance -- desired result achieved with minimal complication
 
Location: Manchester UK | Registered: June 03, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by Ant:
They all work because the wood has an affinity for wood alcohol, methanol, and draws it out of the bio; Jehu has noted this before.
Without the cosolvent of methanol the soap drops out of the bio and is then trapped in the fibrous surface area of the shavings or dust.
I believe the sawdust is absorbing the methanol which then redistributes to even out the gradient and is sucked out some more. This continues untill the soap comes out.


Thank you, Ant.
That is the best explanation I've seen, yet.


1996 K2500 4x4 6.5TD
 
Location: Southern Indiana USA | Registered: June 20, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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[QUOTE]Originally posted by Weldshop:

"My system just has the top (30gal) barrel on two spaced 2x4's.
It's pretty stable once loaded, and I can reach in for a running sample or kill the drain valve.
It also keeps everything atmospheric pressure."

We have the same type set-up just using 15 gallon carboys instead of the 55's. So what are you using for a pump. Also i bought 5# of Tulsion T-45 to play with. Does anyone have experience with this? I was just going to use a 5gal pail with a fiberglass feed bag filled with medium inside it and a valved opening on the bottom to run the fuel through.

Thanks for all the great posts her BTW!
 
Location: SE Ma  | Registered: November 06, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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Hey, Has anyone tried plain charcoal? Either the stuff you cook with(less the added fire starter) or filter charcoal like from a water system?
 
Registered: December 18, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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The set up is my old water wash and dry tanks using the 5gpm blue Harbor Freight pump.
I have Purolite resin but I dont even use it anymore. I settle the bio after bubble demeth and go through the wood shavings then final filter.
I had my fuel tested by a commercial plant, and its good to go.


1996 K2500 4x4 6.5TD
 
Location: Southern Indiana USA | Registered: June 20, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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