what it look like initially
riello.jpg (35 Kb, 29 downloads)
If the fuel isn't heated above 10°C then HMPEs are a likely culprit. In our cold climate we use inline heaters on the fuel line to ensure trouble free operation with BD mixes. The other possibility is wet fuel. If it wasn't tested for water that's very likely.
I would agree with John its most likely HMPEs or simply cold fuel. Both will increase the viscosity of the fuel and produce a very poor spray pattern. It looks to me like the fuel is being splattered all over the blast tube.
1 Turn up your pump pressure ½ bar.
2.Add some kerosene to reduce the viscosity,
3.Install a preheater immediately behind the nozzle, ( I think Danfoss supply preheaters for Riello burners.)
4.Insulate and heat your fuel tank.
I removed the pump from the burner and everything is fine, the o rings are in perfect condition. They're definately not rubber, I've seen what bio does to rubber. After I put everything back together I changed the nozzle for a new one again and upped the fuel pressure another bar to 11bar. It's ben working fine for the last few days so fingers crossed. By the way, taking those pumps apart is not for the faint hearted. Lots of small parts, springs, gears, cogs and rings. Very easy to mess it up if you're not careful.
i finished setting up my new towel rail heated tank even if its only a 150W i think its doing the job with biodiesel made from pure fat i got from dean. hopefully 150W will be enough
the pressure i found, was set at 8 bar so thats adjusted and the burner sounds more fears
i would like to thank everyone,(you know who you are)who helped me achieve this and keep the house warm for one more winter
150w should maintain a 200l tank of bio nicely provided you have plenty of insulation wrapped around the tank. Keep in mind that if the boiler is not used for a while the fuel line and the filter may clog up as they are unheated. If that turns out to be a problem you can get a short heating cable from a garden centre and wrap it around the fuel line and wrap it in insulation also.
8 bar is the correct pressure for kerosene so Im not suprised you got such a poor spray pattern. in fact Im suprised it worked at all. 10 bar is correct for diesel/gasoil so a setting of 10.5 would be about right.
I think we would all like to hear how the heated tank works out as it means we can make use of heavy fats and grease that previously were unusable.
This heating cable is sold on Ebay for reptile tanks and soil propagators. It would be perfect for preventing clogging of fuel lines in a heating system. If the fuel line was wrapped with this cable and then lagged with insulation the fuel could be maintained as a warm liquid.
Has anyone ever experimented with black diesel or better yet black biodiesel in a pressure jet burner? I'm wondering would it work, even if only at low percentages say 10-20% wmo.
Zamo any chance you could post photos of your heated bio tank I'd love to see it? Do you have your element on a thermostat? Is there any worry of a fire risk with the element being exposed to the air with low fuel levels?
Would this towel rail heating element be suitable?
I'm not familiar with this type of element, does it actually turn off the element if its not submerged? Thanks
Here is a diagram of the tank layout, as you can see the drum is on its side so the heater is very low and there is little risk of overheating. The one you showed in the ebay post is the right type but does not come with the special tee piece that allows you to attach a valve to the same ¾" outlet. Over the years I have bought several of these, B&Q stocked them and Im sure many plumbing supplies have them too.
WMO can be blended with kerosene to produce a heating fuel equivalent to gasoil and used in a standard Riello burner set to the diesel/gasoil settings.
Some issues to look out for.
Water and sludge would have to be removed using a simple upflow system.
Particles would have to be filtered out to 5 micron or better.
Because wmo and kerosene will tend to separate over time small batches 100 - 200 litres should be made and used before making more.
When testing blends it will not be possible to test for viscosity because of the very dark colour of the oil so Specific gravity would be the next best way.
Nozzles and possibly pumps would have a shorter working life because of the abrasive particles in the wmo so more frequent service would be required.
Just had a thought, if a fluorescent light tube was placed behind my falling ball viscometer it might be possible to test even a very dark liquid like wmo. The viscosity test is the best way to assess a blend of wmo and kerosene. I might try that out.
Here is a possible setup for black gasoil. using 3 x 200 litre drums it wont take any more space than a 1000 litre kerosene tank.
sorry about the habd pump, it should read hand pump.
I missed something you said earlier, biodiesel and wmo will not mix and will cause a serious sludge problem. Only mineral oils like kerosene can be used to dilute wmo.
What ratio would you think would work or is it just a matter of trial and error to get the right viscosity? Ever tried it with bio too, a three way mix perhaps? not all of us can make our own kero
Do the towel rail heating element need to be on a thermostat?
You can only figure out the correct ratio by testing the viscosity and also the SG and flash point. I would be happy to do it for you. I just added a note about Bio and wmo to the previous post.
You wont need a heater for the wmo system, only for bio made from yellow grease. I do have a suitable heater but Ive just installed it in my new heated up flow tank. Yes it would be best controlled by a thermostsat.
ok thanks if you could that would be great. I read that there can be problems precipitating salts from the acid and alkaline mix of bio and wmo(is this what makes the sludge your on about?)but also heard of some successes filtering this out or using a centrifuge. If it is a case where it produces this slduge once off could you mix - settle - filter to be left with a clean usable fuel or am i off on a mad tangent?
I've been wondering about using a mixture of heated yellow grease and kerosene in my burner. The mixture could be kept liquid in a heated tank like the one Zamo is using and IMB illustrated above. IMB, if you got the chance could you do a viscosity test on the mix for me? This could be a real solution for me, making bio from solids in the winter is no fun at all.
I dont know what exactly causes the sludge but from bitter experience i know it happens. Its possible that the sludge might be removable but it would add a lot of work and mess. Ideally keep bio for motor fuel and hopefully add not too much kero to the wmo for heating fuel.
Dean, I would have to know what temp you are going to maintain your yellow grease/kero mix at in order to carry out viscosity tests, 50°C is usually sufficient.
Sorry yes I forgot the temp will affect the viscosity. I suppose basically whatever it takes to keep it liquid, 50 degrees sounds about right.
Ive updated the diagram of the black gasoil outfit, hopefully its a bit clearer. i tried out the idea with the florescent tube today and I think it will work.
Have you done any testing on the viscosity of ffa blends or solo yet?
womble this is what you need with that exact element http://www.ebay.ie/itm/3906705...id=p3984.m1439.l2649
B&Q sell them but are €56 for element and plumb fitting, i find that expensive. and yes every thing is controlled by a Pid Temperature control, set to come on 30min before the heater fires and stays on while the heater is burning. Its set at 15 degrease. My element is a 150W one and stays on for about 7hours in a 24 hour cycle. My tank is well insulated so i dont think its ever on for that long. I think it costs like 20c of electricity but i'm not sure. I also have a sight tube coming out so i can keep an eye on the level.
I will strip the riello next monday and see what's going on in the blast chamber, nozzle and a general look around.
Imake does the reptile heating cable just heats up or is there a thermostat? can i hook it up the the pid?
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