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Propane bottle oil stove.
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ok thanx john,think im gettin it now.so the 2282591 resettable stat switches on at around 120c and also swicthes off when temp gets too hot(can you adjust this to say 160c)
 
Registered: March 24, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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the 2282591 stat opens at 120c,but does not shut off if temp gets hotter,it only shuts off when temp falls below 120c.so do i need a resettable one that closes at 120c
 
Registered: March 24, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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i think i realise my confusion.if the stat is open does that mean that the pump is on or off.i was thinking it meant the pump would be on,but i think its the other way round,thanx for your patience
 
Registered: March 24, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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The stats I mentioned are "normally closed" types. That is they are closed ( voltage flows through them) until the temp rises above a certain threshold, then they open or switch off the voltage. if they open (switch off) at say 120C they wont close again untill the temp drops well below 120C.
If you wire a "normally closed" 120C stat and a " normally open 75C stat in series you have created a simple logic circuit. The pump can only operate if the flue temperature is somewhere between 75C and 120C. This is what you want to make the system safe.
The adjustable stat mentioned can be used " normally closed" or " normally open" so two of them wired in series would make a very versatile safety system.
 
Location: Lismore Ireland | Registered: November 25, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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started on my propane tank heater today, cut it down to a nice size and i can get 2 heaters out of 1 bottle handy as there not that easy to come across. i was enquiring about stove glass in local builder provider and the woman working there came up with a great sugestion, use glass from a scrapped oven, i could cut i into a couple of narrow strips. i assume oven glass would be the same as stove glass?
 
Location: meath/ cavan | Registered: April 17, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Yes oven glass is perfect, the trick will be to cut it. I have one of those electric tile and glass cutters that might do the job. Ive used it to cut bottles before and works ok. You could bevel and smooth the edges with a diamond file.
 
Location: Lismore Ireland | Registered: November 25, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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yep got it now ,thanx again john.i will do a youtube vid when its done!!!
 
Registered: March 24, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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thats great IMB, my bro is a tiler so cutting the glass is not a problem
 
Location: meath/ cavan | Registered: April 17, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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i intend to use wmo with my burner.does the oil have to be filtered first.i will store oil in a tank outside so will the oil have to be heated in the winter.also is it best to use the side inlet at the bottom of the burner or to drip feed the oil from the top into the burner
 
Registered: March 24, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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with wmo it is better to pump the fuel in through the bottom inlet. The copper pipe from the pump should wrap around the flue twice before going down to the burner.
There is no need to filter the wmo unless there is a lot of dirt in it. You must have a drain valve to take off any water and sludge occasionally. If the wmo drops below 5 or 6 degrees it becomes very thick and difficult to pump.
You will need a setup like the one in my workshop where I pump in in biodiesel/diesel/kerosene for the first 20 minutes and then switch to wmo.
 
Location: Lismore Ireland | Registered: November 25, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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A couple of other things to bear in mind.
Wmo needs to be preheated to 80C before going into the burner so 2 wraps around the flue is enough. Wvo needs to be heated to 120C so 3 or four wraps would be right. Insulate the wraps and the pipe going down to the burner with 3 or 4 thicknesses of tinfoil.
The 10mm copper wmo supply pipe from the pump to the flue should have a steady gentle fall so that the whole supply pipe empties when you turn the burner off. Otherwise the pipe will eventually block up with sediment.
The connections on the pump are for 5mm pvc tube. To connect 5mm pvc tube to 10mm copper insert the pvc tube into the copper tube and wrap the joint tightly with silicone repair tape.
 
Location: Lismore Ireland | Registered: November 25, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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great,thanx john.so basically the pump wants to be at the highest point on the oil feed pipe,so when pump is off the oil will drain out of pipe to burner and also drain back to the tank.what do you suggest to keep the oil in the tank outside above 5-6c,i was thinking of a fish tank immersion heater but do not know whether it would be powerfull enough.do you insulate pipe for safety reasons or to build up heat in the pipe.
 
Registered: March 24, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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Exactly. My pump is about 2 feet above the tank. If you are going to use a 200L steel drum then a heated towel rail element will screw straight into the 3/4" bung, a thermostat strapped to the side of the tank will control the temp and avoid wasting electricity. 500 or 600 watts will be enough and it will only be on occasionally, especially if you insulate the tank well.
You could use the 2" bung for the drain valve with a suitable reducing bush.
I insulate the pipe to conserve the heat collected from the flue.
 
Location: Lismore Ireland | Registered: November 25, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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great idea,was gonna use a 1000l tank.but i think i will have probs with heating it etc.although i would probably have to fill the drum every 2 weeks or so it will be a lot easier and cheaper to heat,fantastic.could be a bit tricky to get in there though to put an oil outlet pipe on and would have to cut open the top and devise something to go back over it thats waterproof
 
Registered: March 24, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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You can open the blank end of a steel drum with a hand grinder or a cold chisel. Replace it with a plywood lid. Your take up pipe should stop about 6 inches short of the bottom so that it wont pick up any water. After filling let the oil settle for about 6 hours before lighting the burner to let any water and sludge settle out.
 
Location: Lismore Ireland | Registered: November 25, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
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How is the stove progressing Aidan?
I noticed in your pics you have fitted a back flue a good distance below the top. This is correct, the hot gases are forced to travel forward to the front of the stove to get past the baffle, Then up to the top plate and then down to the flue outlet. This slows the movement of the gases and exchanges more heat with the body of the stove. If anyone is going to fit a top flue which in some situations will save some space, be sure to extent the flue pipe dow into the stove as shown in the diagram. This way it will achieve the same effect as Aidans back flue.



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Location: Lismore Ireland | Registered: November 25, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Hi to all. I am new to the forum, but have been following the information on the propane drum with alaska 1941 burner. My goal is to heat my 3 bed bungalow with wvo. I have got a propane drum but I am not sure of the best way to connect a boiler/heat exchanger to the cut down propane drum, for maximum output. I appreciate any and all options.
 
Registered: October 12, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Originally posted by kerrydan:
Hi to all. I am new to the forum, but have been following the information on the propane drum with alaska 1941 burner. My goal is to heat my 3 bed bungalow with wvo. I have got a propane drum but I am not sure of the best way to connect a boiler/heat exchanger to the cut down propane drum, for maximum output. I appreciate any and all options.



You could use a regular gas cylinder as your boiler as it's 12" dia and the propane cylinder is 14.5" dia. So you'll have a nice gap all around the gas cylinder for the hot gasses to pass before they leave via the flue.

Have a look at IMB's tips an cutting a propane cylinder a few weeks back
 
Location: Offaly, Ireland | Registered: June 04, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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John to be honest the position of the flue was just a bit of luck. Because I'm renting a house and can't change the fire place, and the max height of the fire place is to the top of the hormonal flue pipe.
Got the glass in the door last weekend and I'm pretty happy with it. I'll post some more pics soon.
 
Location: Offaly, Ireland | Registered: June 04, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Thanks Aidanflynn02. I have been doing some measuring and from my calculations, the regular gas cylinder will fit neatly into the propane cylinder, with a little to spare. Would the plinth on the bottom of the small cylinder come off to give a smooth run for the gas from the alaska burner to go up between the cylinders or would part of it be needed to position the inner cylinder?
Is 8 inches the best distance between the top of the burner and the inner cylinder?
The presure relief valve will be fitted where the gas valve is now and the hot and cold pipes fitted both sides at the top, with the cold pipe going down inside the cylinder to the bottom?
What would be the best way to seal where these pipes go through the outer cylinder?
Perhaps someone has done all this already and would like to share some sketches. Thanks.
 
Registered: October 12, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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