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Methanol in Ireland??
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With the static mixers and the venturi’ at least you will be satisfied that you will have a good mix; during the process’ are you going to use the venturi to dry the oil and recover methanol ?
I have my system plumed in now’ I wont be making a batch for a while maybe when the big red felly comes. I might make one to pass away the time.
I came across an old riello gx5 burner; that was seized’ got it to fire on a mixture of wd40 and two stroke oil’ wasn’t happy with the way the pump was working so took it apart .
For the life of me I cant get to work now so I bought a new pump, I will fit this in my own boiler and use the one I replaced with the rx5. let me know how your batch goes ;and if you are going to do anything different with the process; now that you have all these high Tec attachments’
Ps about the copy of the plans can you send them to me.
Déise.com i can see it now Cool Cool


If it’s not broken don’t fix it if you do you’ll break it.

The black dog can be beaten
 
Location: peoples republic of cork ireland | Registered: November 21, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Send me your address and I will post the plans to you. If you dont want to publish your address on the forum send it by email. I may have something else to interest you. I have a house in Belfast which has oil fired central heating. It had an old Bentone burner which seemed to like running on biodiesel but after a year started to give problems, nozzle drip, leaky seals, failed starts etc. I did a bit of home work and found out that Riello are the only burner in Europe who supply a biodeiesel conversion kit. I bought a second hand 40 series burner and ordered the kit. I installed the outfit a few months ago and it has been running well, very clean and very economic.
The biodiesel Kit is a bit of a rip off, it comprises a standard pump with the three rubber 0 rings replaced with viton , a flexible hose lined with viton and a 100 micron line filter.It cost £187 and I realized afterwards that I could have bought the viton components and fitted then to my existing pump for a quarter of the price.
I have the diagram and part numbers if you want them.
Does your burner have a preheater? Mine didn't but I think it would be useful for cold weather starting. Some riello models have them and danfoss sell a compatible one.
If your burner has that automatic damper which closes the air intake when the burner switches off you need to disable it. The biodiesel will dissolve the rubber diaphram in a few weeks. I disconnected the pipe and blanked off the port on the pump.
I tried methanol recovery last year but found it a lot of hassle. With my new outfit and the venturi I might try again.
 
Location: Lismore Ireland | Registered: November 25, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Thanks for putting me wide to the riello kit
Your right all the O rings and the hose can be got from any place that sell hydraulic hoses
The danfoss pre heater I have PDF file on that; I am going to get one for this burner; and see if I can get it to burn a mixture of bio and svo.
I have a number of books on solar panels and a whole lot of PDF files on panels thanks for the offer

Razz


If it’s not broken don’t fix it if you do you’ll break it.

The black dog can be beaten
 
Location: peoples republic of cork ireland | Registered: November 21, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Happy Christmas to you Copper and to all biodieselers everywhere. Smile See you next year.
Wink
 
Location: Lismore Ireland | Registered: November 25, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by copper12:
i pay 25 euro for 25 liters of methanol i make 150lts of biodiesel
about 1.2kg of naoh
cant use the bio fast enough once you get into a routine


hiya im trying to source a good reliablwe supplier of methanol , im in the process of piecing together my reactor but am finding it difficult to source methanol ... initially i want enough for small batches and work up from there.... can u recommend a supplier ??
Im in Kildare by the way . Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
Location: Kildare, Ireland | Registered: January 03, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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If you just want small quantities I can let you have some.
For larger quantities, Albion Chemicals in dublin supply 200 litre drums, Carbon Group in Ringaskiddy supply 200 litre and 1000 litre IBCs, and Central Chemical supplies in Co.Down supply 25litre and 1000 litre . They all deliver but may want to inspect your premises for safety beforehand. For the larger quantities you will need a forklift to be on hand for unloading.
The price varies from week to week so get a quote before you buy.
I have attached a pic of my processor.

Mercedes 250D
Refleks Oilstove
Riello 40 central heating burner
All on B100
 
Location: Lismore Ireland | Registered: November 25, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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quote:
Originally posted by imakebiodiesel:
If you just want small quantities I can let you have some.
For larger quantities, Albion Chemicals in dublin supply 200 litre drums, Carbon Group in Ringaskiddy supply 200 litre and 1000 litre IBCs, and Central Chemical supplies in Co.Down supply 25litre and 1000 litre . They all deliver but may want to inspect your premises for safety beforehand. For the larger quantities you will need a forklift to be on hand for unloading.
The price varies from week to week so get a quote before you buy.
I have attached a pic of my processor.

Mercedes 250D
Refleks Oilstove
Riello 40 central heating burner
All on B100


I like your pic - Im working on my reactor at the moment in spare time - Im using copper cylinders and re-arranging the connections to suit the pipe work ( im a plumber so materials are handy to come by also if you guys ever need welding or brazing done let me know )
I havent decided on a final design yet - will probably use a three tank set up much the same as your own. I need to clear a 1978 Triumph Spitfire from my garage first - (its for sale if anyone is interested).
I made a few inquires with local chip shops and restaurants and they seem to be using lard for frying not veg oil - they said it was too expensive ,, don't know if it was just a brush off.
Thanks for the info regarding supplies - will take you up on your offer of small quantity when im doing test batches, and ill post pics of the works in progress - any input would be appreciated. I have a few ideas I need to bounce off you guys and i will post sketches here for feed back .
Did you change any seals or gaskets in your Riello burner ? I know they are probably the most suitable for running on B100.
 
Location: Kildare, Ireland | Registered: January 03, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I know some Italian chip shops prefer lard but around here most use veg oil, either rape or soya.
By the time they are finished with it there is a fair proportion of lard in it from the burgers etc. I collect mostly from the more expensive restuarants and as they dont deep fry meat in the oil it contains no lard at all. They also change their oil more often so its less acidic and therefore easier to process.
I fitted a biodiesel kit to the riello 40 burner It replaced 3 0 rings, 2 pump shaft seals, the flexible hose and the line filter with viton components. There are more details of the kit somewhere earlier on this thread, before Christmas. I use a 200 litre indoor oil tank with a 200 watt frost protector heater. The biodiesel cant drop below 5 degrees C. The burner works perfectly, no smoke, no smell. The standard seals on oil fired burners are Buna L which will slowly dissolve in contact with biodiesel.
 
Location: Lismore Ireland | Registered: November 25, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Ahh I see - very informative, thanks for the info, I will spread my wings a little more towards the better restaurants and see how I get on.
 
Location: Kildare, Ireland | Registered: January 03, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Look what Santa brought Big Grin


Hard to think they were made 60 years ago looks new
All the booklets came in foil packets
There’s a mixture of bio diesel and waste engine oil in it a bit of smoke at the start after ten minuets
It started to burn fairly clean
hope you all had a good christmas


If it’s not broken don’t fix it if you do you’ll break it.

The black dog can be beaten
 
Location: peoples republic of cork ireland | Registered: November 21, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Bio mate don’t rush into buying the riello kit; as imakebiodiesel said it is a bit of a rip off.
I have a Riello G 5 bf 90/110 burner and for the last three years; I have been running a mixture of kerosene bio diesel and a little waste engine oil.
You being a plumber it will take you ten minuets to clean the flame tube; and clean around the nozzle
The only problem I had with bio was with cold starts; once you got it running’ it worked away
I found that the EH nozzle worked best.
Any dodgy batch or very good waste oil goes straight into the heating tank
I haven’t changed the seals on the burner; I only had to clean the filters both on the fuel supply and in the pump. On a few occasions.
Any place where they sell hydraulic hoses for machinery; should have Vinton O rings much cheaper than the Riello kit ide say.


If it’s not broken don’t fix it if you do you’ll break it.

The black dog can be beaten
 
Location: peoples republic of cork ireland | Registered: November 21, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Ahh cheers for the advice. It will be a little while yet before im up and running - need to clear the garage and finish the processor. I would say Modern Plant on the Naas road would have the seals as they pretty much stock everything related to hydraulics and such like.
Do you need to thin out the waste engine oil in some way before you burn it ? - I would imagine it just goes straight to the bottom of your heating tank.
Also does it matter if its synthetic or mineral oil ? or is it pretty much "suck it and see" and hope for the best ?
Im quite open to experimenting a bit with the heating oil because I come across burners on a regular basis, so if I go through a few it dont matter.
 
Location: Kildare, Ireland | Registered: January 03, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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Is that one of James Auberry'S Alaska oil burners?
Those have got to be the bargain of the year. Do you remember the tv series MASH? There was an alaska stove in every tent. I have only burned biodiesel in mine so far, Im worried the control unit might get clogged up with gunk. What proportion of motor oil to bio did you use. I was thinking of dripping wvo/lard/motor oil into it from above once it got running and turning the biodiesel down. I attach a sketch, what do you think.

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Imagealaskastove.jpg (34 Kb, 44 downloads)
 
Location: Lismore Ireland | Registered: November 25, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Yes its a case of throw it in and see what happens; Cool I did filter the engine oil and mix it with kerosene about 50 50 mix left it there for a week and it looked ok; so into the tank with rest.
fellow I know who is a land landscaper and would try anything lives close enough to borrow and forget to return stuff .
Mixed about 100lt with 400lt of kerosene and he has had no problems; if he did I be the first to know’ Razz so all my waste engine oil goes to the heating tank. I also have a RBL G5X and a Riello 40 burner if anything goes wrong with the main burner .
You name it I’ve put into my heating; so long as it is filtered; as for the ratio of the oil mix; without any modification to the burner; other than upping the pressure’ about 60 40 bio and kerosene and 70 30 waste cooking oil and kerosene you might have to clean the air tube every so often; a ten minute job .
Is that one of James Auberry'S Alaska oil burners Big Grin Big Grin

Yes it is after seeing yours, I just had to get one’ mine was a bit damaged nothing a slap of a hammer couldn’t fix .
Once I got it hot enough it burned everything I pored in.
I started it with a rag dipped in bio; added about half a litre of bio and when it was burning hot; I added some SVO and engine oil’ it really needs to be hot for the engine oil; and any water in the oil will also vaporise and put the flame out .
I am trying to decide how best to use the stove came across a fairly new oil boiler; might try it in this if I can
In the picture the casing is an old gas bottle; this fits it perfectly just inside the rim’ but outside the upper air holes’ with a proper flu it will create more draft and maybe burn the engine oil better.
As for the sketch I think it would work while poring oil into the burner from the top as soon as it hit the upper tube there was a good flame however you might not have to go to that trouble if you get the burner hot enough .
You design would be of interest if you wanted to increase the BTU output kind of an afterburner Cool oil dropping onto the hot upper tube would burn instantly .


If it’s not broken don’t fix it if you do you’ll break it.

The black dog can be beaten
 
Location: peoples republic of cork ireland | Registered: November 21, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Biomate, I apologize for copper and me , ranting on about our new toys. The Alaska stove we were discussing is an ex US army unit for sale on Ebay. It will burn just about any fuel, petrol, kerosene, diesel, biodiesel, veg oil and waste motor oil. I am in the process of modifying mine to burn lard in order to heat my workshop.

If you want to see biodiesel being made sometime you would be very welcome to come to my place on a day when I am making it. I often do a batch on Saturday morning. I start around nine and finish at eleven shirty. My mobile number is 086 3169230. All the stuff you might read can sound complicated but its simple when you see it done.
 
Location: Lismore Ireland | Registered: November 25, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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hello Copper12,
I have just posted a report on my progress with my alaska stove. The copper preheat coil worked a treat, clean controllable heat from yellow grease. Ive posted it on Biodiesel and SVO forums/ Biodiesel Heating / military heater on Ebay. Have a look. There is a picture of the stove with the WVO reservoir attached.

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Image11010809_copy.jpg (42 Kb, 45 downloads)
 
Location: Lismore Ireland | Registered: November 25, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Great minds think alike so what are you thinking of Smile
I have already made up something along those lines; 8ml brazed tee, an 8ml straight fitting’ will tread into the inlet of the Riello pump’
I have not finished testing diferent mixes of oils ; in order to get the best mix of bio and waste engine oil .
After seeing your set up, I used the Alaska stove and tried different mixes, like you said it will burn just about anything, I had soap from filtering my last batch’ of diesel mixed this with some waste engine oil’ just enough the make the soap flow’ this burnt very hot when dripped onto the upper air tube’ looked just like a gas burner .
So this is my problem do I go with the Riello burner or the Alaska ; the Alaska will not need so much work done to the oil that it burns; and it can be a mix of anything that comes to hand .
I am thinking of getting a larger propane bottle; I think the larger bottle is the same diameter as the small one' if this is the case' then it will fit on top of the Alaska stove; and not interfere with the air intakes .
A copper coil wound up the outside of the bottle as a heat exchanger ?.
I think I am answering my own question here
Razz


If it’s not broken don’t fix it if you do you’ll break it.

The black dog can be beaten
 
Location: peoples republic of cork ireland | Registered: November 21, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Copper12 - did you try that Danfoss pre-heater you mentioned? I notice that there are a few different models, and I was wondering whether you had a view on which would be best suited to BD. Take a look at http://pfheating.danfoss.com/PCMPDF/DKBDPD069A302.pdf and you'll see that there are different power heating elements, and the device includes a valve which holds the fuel back until up to temperature. But perversely the nozzle temperature seems to be higher with the less powerful element (it taking longer to get there).

It's also worth noting that the pre-heater includes a couple of seals so I wonder whether these pre-heaters will be problematic longer term - not sure if they come apart to replace seals.
 
Registered: November 26, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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Tried a few places on the net difficult to source and a bit costly
I have to say it gets a bit to technical and a bit fiddly by the tome I would have had it fitted .
Just had a delivery of kerosene 300lt mixed this with 250 waste engine oil filtered and 200lt of bio
Pump pressure 140 psi boiler fires first time even when cold . A little bit of smoke for the first five minuets then it clears I will try this out for a while see how it goes
So I think I will give the preheater a miss.
How or things going with the Alaska stove


If it’s not broken don’t fix it if you do you’ll break it.

The black dog can be beaten
 
Location: peoples republic of cork ireland | Registered: November 21, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Have you had a BD mix going at colder temperatures - I suspect problems might occur towards the gel point. Perhaps that is not an issue for you in Ireland, and Winter has been mild so far this year. Thanks for your feedback - guess I need to get on and give it a go. Need to re-pipe my oil tanks first so that I have one for BD and one for Kerosene.

Agree that the Danfoss pre-heater looks expensive, particularly for something in which the seals might go.
 
Registered: November 26, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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