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what do you have to do to change i have 86 6.9 ip died after 15 gal of 90oil/10 rug. Start on diesel then went to tank2.what do you have to do to change a 7.3 to a 6.9 Eng thank you
 
Location: ca | Registered: 09 May 2006Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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are you talking about switchin the ip or the engine? most of the parst on those are the same. ip, injectors water pump and such. the heads and the massively overbored block are different and a few others to.
 
Registered: 15 February 2006Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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just the ip will i have to adjust the Flo
 
Location: ca | Registered: 09 May 2006Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Not to hard to change, but probably what happened was because the Stanadynes don't like heavy thick oil, when you went to your second tank it sheared the drive shaft (especially if you were driving when you did it) that is attached to the gear under the half round cover with the oil fill neck. I did this from memory so I hope I didn't miss anything.

1. Disconnect Battery and put on eye protection, long sleeve shirt, pants, and safety toed shoes.

2. Take off air cleaner(s), intercooler tubes, filter support bar, IP electrical connections, throttle cable and breacket, cold idle solenoid connection, cover just below oil filler (two bolts), dissconnect fuel supply from filter.

3. Undo 3 small 12 point bolts that hold IP to gear. (be careful not to move the gear as this will screw up timeing).

4. Undo all injector lines from the injectors (make sure to label in case you have trouble getting them back in the right place after they come off the pump)

5. Check timing marks (marked on flange of pump where it bolts to the oil filler cover) and note position, make new clear mark if necessary)

6. Cut a 9/16" wrench in half so you can undo the three nuts that hold the IP on. Undo nuts.

7. Remove any lines from pump that won't clear other engine parts.

8. Swap all parts from old pump to new pump (cold idle solenoid and throttle position sensor if an automatic).

9. Swap on all the lines that are still on the pump.

10. Put pump back on engine and makes sure alignment pins goes into gear.


13. Secure the pump to the oil filler cover so that pump can rotate a little (for adjusting timing).

13. Replace any other injector lines. Reconnect supply line from filter.

14. Align timing marks and tighten the nuts that hold the pump down.

15. Clean the 3 Small 12 point bolts and re-install with loctite. Put RTV on oil fill cover and re-install.

16. Re-attach all electrical connections and have somebody turn the key on and make sure that both solenoids in the top of the pump energize (click).

17. Re-install throttle cable and bracket.

18. Clean up area and ensure there are no open lines or anything that will be sucked into engine.

19. Crank engine until is starts (this may take awhile to refill pump and lines).

20. Check for fuel leaks and tighten if necessary.

21. Re-install everything else you took off.

22. Don't switch to any high viscosity oil on the fly. To reduce chance of pump failure come to a stop and idle to reduce fuel flow to minimum. This will decrease stess on the IP drive shaft, but may not be enough with oil that is not heated enough to thin it down. Running unheated oil may also cause lubrication failure in these pumps due to tight spaces in the pump that thick oil will not get into. Good Luck!! Hope this helps.
 
Registered: 06 September 2005Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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