I just bought one on ebay, will advise once I get it
All Powerstroke owners need to check out Guzzle's website and his diesel o'rings store. They can be found on the DieselStop site. Great DIY info and lots of knowledge on the HPOP and filter issues. I'm not running bio yet but I had HPOP issues that were similar to what is being discussed. I was able to replace every o'ring on my HPOP and filter bowl for $150 including buying an inch/lb torque wrench. Beats the dealer's $1700 estimate! Removed and cleaned the filter bowl at the same time and was amazed at the amount of crud inside from pump fuel. Frequent fuel filter changes are a must with the PowerStrokes. Guzzle has good Racor filters at a such an affordable price I carry two extra in the truck. With even a hint of moisture, drain the bowl and pop in a new filter. Beats walking. Even though the HPOP reservoir is part of the low pressure system it does not change over very much and the oil breaks down and thickens over time. Siphoning the old oil out of the HPOP every so often makes a big differnce in injector performance. PowerstrokeHep on YouTube is a great resource as well.
I have close to 100K on my 03 7.3 on bio, no fuel related issues at all, it's supposed to be out of the body shop Monday or Tuesday, a moron kid ran a red light and I tee boned him mostly on the drivers side front corner of my truck, 8K damage to the Stroke, mostly cosmetic, the frame horns were bent but no damage to anything mechanical.
The moron was TEXTING, Fing idiot, he was driving a Tundra (don't know what year) that thing was absolutely TOTALED, it bent almost 45 degrees between the box and cab, I finished my trip to work and drove it to the body shop after work, the steering wheel was 90 degrees off and there was some wind noise from the drivers side door, I didn't even loose a single piece of anything off the truck, the fire dept filled the bed of that Tundra with plastic and various other parts of that truck, it had to be hauled away on a flat bed.
The hilarious part of the whole thing was it had a pair of truck nuts swinging off the hitch, LMAO, a Tundra with truck nuts hauled off on a flat bed while the Stroke went to the hospital under it's own power.
I disagree. While there's nothing wrong with sucking the less than quart of oil out of the HPOP at oil changes, it is more so a waste of time. That oil does not reside there long at all. For instance, by the time your engine cranks over and starts, that oil is already changed out and circulated. Ask anyone who has disassembled an HPOP and its reservoir, and they'll tell you oil doesn't just sit there, but it circulates quickly. In a 15qt capacity sump that 5% of leftover oil is a drop in the bucket. I have had plenty of excellent Blackstone OA's to back this up. That powerstrokehelp guy is also passing bad info with the use of additives in powerstrokes. NEVER use additives in powerstrokes. While he has some good information, some of it needs to be taken with caution. I am pretty sure he is the one that perpetuated this myth about HPOP oil changes. If you do not believe this, check into any powerstroke tech forum such as Dieselstop or FTE, and you'll here plenty of 'opinions' from very knowledgeable folks.
'01 F250 7.3 4x4 Lariat Crew
'95 Mercedes Benz E300 D
While I understand the idea behind this - that it MUST circulate - I've siphoned off the oil in my 01's HPOP and tried to start the engine. Cranked it for about 2 minutes, 5 times with good long breaks in between to allow the started to cool. Hoping to prove the idea that the HPOP refills mechanically (oil pump). It never did. Since the injectors are fired with high pressure oil (from the HPOP) the truck never started after 5 cycles.
I then put in .75 l or so into the HPOP and she fired up first shot.
So while people I respect greatly in the diesel arena claim that refreshing the oil in your HPOP is bumpkiss, my little experiment changed my mind a bit.
Once a year or so now I've siphoned it off and refilled it, takes 10 minutes and hurts absolutely nothing, gives me an excuse to spend time under the hood of my favorite vehicle.
I realize there are many opinions but at 100K a 7.3 has just started to live. Given the cost of the components, HPOP, injectors etc. a quart of clean oil seems like cheap insurance. This my second PSD and I had never heard of changing the HPOP oil until I did some internet digging on why the reservoir looked so awful right after an oil change.
I had no choice but to siphon out the HPOP since I didn't want a quart of oil all over the garage floor. I had changed the engine oil just a few days prior to the o'ring failure so I was VERY surprised at how nasty the stuff in the reservoir looked. (I ASSumed it changed over too)I forgot to mention that I re-filled the reservoir with nice clean Rotella prior to cranking the engine. After running up and down the road for 15-20 minutes I siphoned some oil out of the HPOP and is was yucky black again. The dipstick was still a clear amber so there is a fair amount of crud recirculating in the injector circuit. Needless to say I did another oil change on the HPOP reservoir. Now it looks as good as what is the pan.
If you have mucked up, thickening oil in your HPOP, then that's just a sign of a very poorly maintained engine. It would need to be severely neglected to have oil that bad in the HPOP reservoir.
But still, if you want to change that oil, it wont't hurt anything like I stated earlier. (You still have oil in the rails and the oil cooler you can't get out)
I not only disagree with the above two statements, but will say that they are false.
'01 F250 7.3 4x4 Lariat Crew
'95 Mercedes Benz E300 D
I just stumbled across the maintenance idea of flushing out the oil in the HPOP reservoir. The video online showed it nasty and black. That video suggested refilling it with Prolong engine oil treatment. I picked up some Prolong and was on my way to the shop to do this flushing procedure when my truck wouldn't crank. Oil level in the crankcase fine, fuel pressure fine. Hmmm... I had a feeling it might be something to do with the HPOP oil level. I've had some leaks in that system lately. Sure enough, the oil in the HPOP reservoir was about an inch and a half from the top. After that, fired right up.
Normally, the oil should remain about 1/2" to 3/4" from the top of the reservoir. When I fill mine up, it seems to drain back into the engine almost as fast as I can pour the oil in there. Can't find a leak on the outside. Must be draining back through the HPOP back down into the engine. Got an appointment at the repair shop tomorrow.
Also, I had just changed my oil less than 300 miles ago. The oil in the HPOP reservoir was the same color as the oil in the crankcase... honey-colored. I run Rotella but use the Amsoil bypass filter. Little if any dino diesel so Sulphur is almost non-existent. Therefore, my oil stays nice and clean a long time.
2002 F-250, 7.3l on WVO since '04
'82 VW Rabbit diesel 1.6l na
'83 GMC 6.2l Class C RV
'85 F-350, 6.9l flat bed
'85 E-350, 6.9l cube van
2 Mercedes 300SD's
3 Chinese Changfa-style diesel generators- 12kw, 8kw & 7.5kw
Mitsubishi 3 cyl diesel generator/light tower
Kubota 2 cyl. diesel, water cooled air compressor
Onan 12.5kw air-cooled diesel genset
I run my company entirely on renewable energy including electricity from generators running on biofuels.
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