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The cheapest type of UK hot water cylinders have a domed top, which for our needs would be better at the bottom.

This can make it awkward to mount.


*******************************
!!! DO NOT Pressurise a copper water Tank !!!
!!! You MUST have a vent in the tank as described here and never block or close the vent !!!
*******************************





Important: BioDiesel production involves hazardous chemicals and processes, which can be lethal or seriously damaging to health, property and the environment if proper care is not taken.

It is your responsibility to protect yourself, those around you and the environment from harm.

Failure to take the proper precautions could result in death, serious injury, loss of property, prosecution.

Do not attempt any of these procedures if you are not familiar with Hazardous Material handling procedures and regulations, electrical installation regulations and proper procedures, local environmental protection bylaws etc.

This process is intended for people who are experienced in the safe and responsible handling of the materials and equipment used in BioDiesel production.




Here's my setup, shown during its build, which uses 18mm external ply, cut to the shape of the dome.

This is really light and compact, and solid too, no problems with pipes and joints being stressed when you operate the valves.





A couple of 2" x 3" upright stilts act as the main support, and the 22mm pipework is secured to the ply with screw-on pipe clamps.

The uprights can then be secured to your wall with batons.

The tank was eventually secured with webbing straps, nailed to the uprights.

Remember to take out the sacrificial anode from the base of the cylinder or you'll end up with white sludge and bits of aluminium or magnesium in your brew.

This tank is around 120 litres and you should have no trouble finding one at your local council tip.

The final setup I used is here

[ PS. I've moved the pump down to the lowest part of the vertical tube, makes priming much easier.
With a 5% water pre-wash, there is no problem with glycerol jamming the pump. Just recirculate the BD again after you drain the glycerol, to dilute any remaining traces within the bulk of the BD. ]

This message has been edited. Last edited by: GrahamLaming,


Rover 75 + Skoda Fabia on B100
http://www.graham-laming.com
Bicycle on G100 12,000 miles p.a. ( http://tinyurl.com/krppyc )
 
Location: UK | Registered: 04 December 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Must admit I am impressed by this. I have two copper tanks resting on planks of wood because I could not think of a way to prop them up. I might try this over the Xmas break.
 
Location: Nottingham | Registered: 26 November 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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That looks pretty tidy!!!
You've nearly convinced me not to bother make oil drum reactors

Have you got a photo of the finished item???
(With everything in place) just for reference!!!

9bar
 
Location: Leeds U.K. | Registered: 03 October 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Hi

I'm new to biodiesel and I've been looking for a uk version of the appleseed processor. I'd all but given up and was seriously considering the foolmeister system.... thank goodness I did a little more research before jumping in! The version shown here looks eminently do-able - however, I how a few queries....

I know the appleseed system uses a stainles steel water tank for the reactor. Are there any issues associated with the copper cylinder used in Graham's design?

I notice the pump is situated mid-way up the rig rather than at the lowest point.. is there a problem priming it - or is it self-priming?

I'm thinking of using one of these tanks from screwfix.
Will this do the job?

Sorry for all the questions but thanks in advance.

Cheers

Nick (24/7)
 
Location: Nottingham UK | Registered: 14 December 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Hi Nick

I haven't had any issues with the copper so far. I changed some of the pipe recently, to move the filter tank. The inside of the brass and copper tube looked OK to me, a little dull, but nothing that shouted corrosion to me.

But see my comments at the end, copied from an earlier post, about removing the corrosion-prone anode from the tank.

The pump is not self priming.

I put it up there to keep it out of the glycerol layer when settling. The layer of oil in the fully charged filter/raw storage tank comes above the pump, so this primes it. Then the pump just drags oil thru until the filter tank is empty.

The pump is a little weedy Grundfoss 15/50 I got on ebay brand new for £25.00 Does the job OK, but I need to feed the Meth in really slowly or I get too much Meth vs. oil concentration in the pump pipework and I've noticed this can affect the quality of end result. You really want to trickle the Meth in very slowly, I find. I'd like to get a beefier pump - anyone know of an easy to find cheap version in UK? The US Clear Water types look much more chunky.

Here's my earlier post from another part of the forum, about the anode...

I'll get some more photos taken over the Xmas break, it's a little cramped in the shed, so difficult to get good pics...

quote:

Posted 10 December 2005 02:20 PM
If you plan to use a copper water tank, you'll need to do some surgery to it before you use it for bioD brewing....

There's a long aluminium or magnesium tube in the bottom of the tank near the indirect water heating tube(or the top if you invert it like I do). It is known as a 'sacrificial anode' which is there to help stop corrosion.

Basically, this tends to corrode and sacrifice itself first, instead of the copper, which is important when you have water, but you really don't want it there with NaOH or KOH, cos it makes a whole mess of residue and you can end up with the tube degrading into little bits and pieces which clog up your pump, valves etc.

It is easy to spot in a new tank, because it is clearly the only silvery coloured thing in the tank, but in an old tanks it will probably be covered in limescale like the rest of the innards.

In all the tanks I've used, it is around 1/2 inch or 12mm daiameter, and about 36 inches or a meter long. It is normally bonded to the centre of the base of the tank.

Here's how I get them out....

Place the tank on its flat base.

Remove the immersion heater and poke a torch/flashight in there and peek right down to the middle of the base - can you see the thin tube bonded to the middle of the base? That's what you want to remove.

Have someone hold the flashlight and now peek into the water inlet port at the very bottom of the tank. You should be able to see where the sacrificial anode joins onth the base from here too. You may need to push on the big copper coil to move it a bit, if its obscuring your view.

Get a senior hacksaw blade and tape it to a piece of 3/4 x 3/4 inch wood about 2 foot long. Poke this in the inlet port and hacksaw the sacrificial anode off, about an inch from where it joins onto the base.

Then turn the tank upside down and it should be possible to grab it and hoik it out thru the immersion heater hole.


Rover 75 + Skoda Fabia on B100
http://www.graham-laming.com
Bicycle on G100 12,000 miles p.a. ( http://tinyurl.com/krppyc )
 
Location: UK | Registered: 04 December 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Hi Graham welcome to the forum,
machine mart do nice pumps

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/ranges.asp?g=122&r=2158

Nice set up you have, and I too have no problems to report with my copper processor and washtank in over a year of use.

Chug


*************************
1996 Transit Tipper
1991 Mercedes 709D
1994 Citroen ZX 1.9TD engine now in peugeot 306D
*************************
http://www.biofuel-uk.net/

The Collaborative Biodiesel Tutorial
http://www.biodieselcommunity.org

 
Location: S.E. England | Registered: 05 September 2004Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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So a copper cylinder it is then!

Re the pump, is this the one you mean? £29.95+VAT


A slight modification to the plumbing whould be needed as the in and out are not in-line, nothing major though.

Thanks for sharing your knowledge guys, looks like I'm gonna be busy over the Christmas break
Smile.

Cheers

Nick

Imagepump.jpg (9 KB, 102 downloads)
 
Location: Nottingham UK | Registered: 14 December 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Nick

yes 1 inch TAM 105 is the one .

Chug


*************************
1996 Transit Tipper
1991 Mercedes 709D
1994 Citroen ZX 1.9TD engine now in peugeot 306D
*************************
http://www.biofuel-uk.net/

The Collaborative Biodiesel Tutorial
http://www.biodieselcommunity.org

 
Location: S.E. England | Registered: 05 September 2004Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Hi Chug & Nick

Thanks for the info on the pump.

That's my Christmas pressie to me sorted ... I'll get one to transfer WO from storage barrels to the filter drum, instead of using buckets.

If it has better flow rate than the Grundfoss, I'll get another for the recirculator. How does it cope with the reaction liquid Chug? I see it states for clean water use.

I'll probably then use the grundfoss to feed the washed oil to the dryer, and then to recirculate in the dryer - no need for much speed there.


Rover 75 + Skoda Fabia on B100
http://www.graham-laming.com
Bicycle on G100 12,000 miles p.a. ( http://tinyurl.com/krppyc )
 
Location: UK | Registered: 04 December 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Yes, people use these pumps as their mixing pump for the biodiesel reaction without problems.

Chug


*************************
1996 Transit Tipper
1991 Mercedes 709D
1994 Citroen ZX 1.9TD engine now in peugeot 306D
*************************
http://www.biofuel-uk.net/

The Collaborative Biodiesel Tutorial
http://www.biodieselcommunity.org

 
Location: S.E. England | Registered: 05 September 2004Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Machine Mart have none in stock but are hoping for their next delivery in min Jan.

I bit the bullet and bought the next one up in their range (About £58) which seems a great little pump.
 
Registered: 03 November 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Same in the Nottingham store - though they told me that the TAM105 was discontinued by Clarke. I bought the last CEB102 in the store - 58.69GBP - ouch! It does state in the blurb that the pump is intended for clean water only - at between 0 and 40 centigrade. Oh well, fingers crossed Smile
 
Location: Nottingham UK | Registered: 14 December 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Just discovered this from the journeytoforever site....

northern tools

£26.96 + VAT and in stock according to the website

 
Location: Nottingham UK | Registered: 14 December 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Northern tools - are in the South???

Portsmouth to be exact

That's handy Frown

9bar
 
Location: Leeds U.K. | Registered: 03 October 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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That Clarke TAM 105 is EACTLY the same pump as most people here use. We get it from Habor Freight or Northern Tools as the 1" Clear Water Pump. Exact same critter.
It is not self priming but if you put your oil feed above the outlet port's height and leave an air vent open at the top of the reactor it will prime the pump by gravity. This is the way I've been doing it for two years now, works great.



**My reactor/processor :B100WH.com ** Video of my system
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Location: :-) Great White North eh ? | Registered: 10 December 2004Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Graham - You will have to get a parts list together and the we can all take it to the local 'Plumb Centre' and look like plumbers and not get stung (like we usually do when trying to ask for something we don't know the proper name of)

I know this happens as I am an electrician and have seen many a victim in the electrical wholesalers where I frequent

9bar
 
Location: Leeds U.K. | Registered: 03 October 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Hi 9bar

Will do. I'll put together a list of all parts, where I sourced them from and prices. I'll have it posted before the end of the year.

I'm sure I'll get a minor heart murmur when I've added it all up, but I'm sure the returns have been worth it. Works great and has been fun to make and run.

And I'm pretty sure all parts can be found cheaper - I was just in such a rush to get producing I didn't shop around as much as I should have.

I'll take some photos of the final setup, too, as the basic 'work-in-progress' frame I posted at the start of this thread was simply to give another idea for mounting a typical UK tank upside down. Things have changed a fair bit now that it's up an running, as always.



Rover 75 + Skoda Fabia on B100
http://www.graham-laming.com
Bicycle on G100 12,000 miles p.a. ( http://tinyurl.com/krppyc )
 
Location: UK | Registered: 04 December 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Nice one!!!

I look forward to confusing the hell out of the counter staff at my local 'Plumb Centre' when they ask what I'm going to be doing with it all (LOL)

9bar
 
Location: Leeds U.K. | Registered: 03 October 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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@ Graham... I very much look forward to seeing the pictures of your rig as I'm just about to put mine together.

I sourced most of the bits from Screwfix, including the reaction tank. The pump is from machinemart. Reckon I've spent about £250 so far.

What I have in mind is to build a low shelf/table high enough to allow 25 litre containers underneath. The tanks will stand on the shelf leaving room underneath for running off the by-product and for storage of the soon-to-be-numerous (I hope!) storage cans.

I have a source of WVO - just need to source the meth.

Nick
 
Location: Nottingham UK | Registered: 14 December 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by Twenty4Seven:
I have a source of WVO - just need to source the meth.

Nick


Have you tried http://www.yell.com

Just enter your postcode and solvent suppliers as a search and hey presto!!!

If you can't find any just try chemical suppliers - If they don't do it they will probably know someone who does

9bar
 
Location: Leeds U.K. | Registered: 03 October 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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