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mmmm ... as for change oil when using biodiesel ?? where do i read about that i havent heard anything of that as of yet !!!
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I tried the diesel secret snake oil peddlers starting back in October 2005 on my 95 mercedes 300D. I built the fueling station they describe in their manual, tried it with virgin oil- no problem. Then I tried it with waste vegetable oil and the filters got plugged up immediately- nothing would go through the system (which also protected my car from damage). So I went and looked at biodiesel and SVO sites and found that for SVO, you need to let the oil settle for a few days to a few weeks, then put it through a filter bag. I have been doing this for the past year before mixing the kerosene, gasoline and additives and putting it through the DSE filters and have had good results (gone 15,000 miles, Nov 2006). Problems: At 6000 miles, my fuel filter got plugged up. I had received a warning on this in another chat room, suggesting that this might be caused by a microbe growing in the fuel, so I added an antibiotic. I have had to change the filter one more time at 8000 miles but have had no more problems. This month, the temperature got down to 19 degrees, and my fuel was a little low. My car died going up a steep hill (never happened before, but it's never been this cold since I started using DSE), but I managed to coax it home after restarting it several times. I made up a new batch of fuel upping the kerosene from 10 to 15% and gasoline from 5 to 7% and afterwards it ran fine like nothing had happened. This is still in the experimental stage, but I am much less apprehensive than I was at the beginning. As I pump the oil out of the settled containers into the filter bag, I see visible debris in the tubing (that the filter bag removes) and I say to myself- How could anyone suggest just putting WVO mixed with these things straight into the fueling station? The whole house filters in the fueling station simply will not handle it- they are just insurance that nothing bad slips through. You have to let this stuff settle first and then put it through the filter bag, if you don't plan on doing that, I would not touch this stuff. The settling process probably also helps with the water problem. There is still the issue of triclycerides in an unmodified vehicle like mine, but so far, so good. If I have a problem with my fuel pump, I will let you know, otherwise no news is good news. With all of the modifications, I figure it is costing me 85 to 100 cents a gallon (more expensive in winter when it gets cold). I like it better than biodiesel because the dangerous chemicals are fewer and used in smaller quantities and you don't have to be real precise when you add them. One thing that bothers me about the DSE company- they lurk in the shadows- they don't come out into the light. I don't know who they are or where they are coming from. I guess they lurk in the shadows because they know that their system, as described in their booklet, will not work in the long term, and that it is more expensive than the advertised 46 cents a gallon. There was a chat room called DSEtesting.com that I had been posting reports on since April or May until this month but I notice that I cannot pull up the site today- I've always wondered if DSE was behind this chat room. I don't know all the motives here (money is one of them) but something stinks. Maybe my posts (and others) on DSEtesting was making DSE look bad and they pulled the site. Or maybe there was a devastating recent post. Does someone know something drastically wrong about this stuff that they are not telling? I am worried, but I will continue to post updates on this site (unless DSEtesting goes back up). But to summarize, so far, the DSE method will work with some modifications.
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The DSE method is something called BLENDING. DSE just added a little bottle of SECRET STUFF that you add in minescule amounts.
Save some bucks and just blend. There is nothing in the DSE set up that is not being done already by the blenders with the exception of selling you a few ounces of solvent and sending you a large bill. -Jim Oh, wait. I just noticed you registered today and posted today. How long as the company that makes the DSE been signing your checks? |
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Hi Jim: I agree. The amount of stuff you add is so small I can't imagine how it does anything! But I got suckered and bought several bottles of this stuff for 80 bucks, so I'll use it till I run out. Other posts here seem to indicate that it helps the engine start (the gasoline, used at a much higher concentration has a lower flashpoint), but I suspect it does nothing and the real reason they sell it is to get your money! They make a point of emphasizing in their manual NOT to use the mixture without their secret ingredient and this scare tactic worked on me. I understand why you think I am a DSE operative, but I am not. I posted today because the DSEtesting site was down(mysteriously, for the first time- did someone put something bad on there today?).
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Jim- Do you know of any blending sites?
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Well, it's good to hear you are not one of their guys.
Right here on this site there is an active blending community. http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/frm/f/359605551 I feel the need to heat the fuel so I guess I fall under the SVO umbrella. But I am currently running single tank, so I am a blender until the engine gets hot. I run 50% dry, filtered WVO, 40% biodiesel, and 10% D1/kerosene. I have been known to add a little RUG every once in a while. I have a 20 plate flat plate heat exchanger in the engine compartment. I just installed the injection line heaters, but have not wired them in yet. I have 80-100 watts of heater wire wrapped around the spin on filter to help with the start up. I want to go two tank, but have been too busy. I finished two of my incomplete classes last week. I have one more incomplete to clear then the 4 hours worth of classes to finish for this semester. I'm taking next semester off so I should be able to get something done soon. BTW, welcome to the forum!  -Jim www dot FryerPower dot com 1987 300DT (The sedan, not the wagon.) Some modifications to the fuel system. 1995 S350D Unmodified fuel system. I plead the 5th. |
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You're looking at one. Look next door, at the SVO forum; there a several blenders there. --There is no Magic Bullet.-- If bigger is safer, buses are safest. Save yourself, use Transit. |
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Thanks. I should have done this a long time ago.
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i followed the dse manual to the letter and came up snake eyes. the "system" will not pump dse pass the filters. i tried new filters with negative results. don't waste your time or money.
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Right. The filtration system they describe didn't work for me either. But I didn't give up. To make this work you have to let the oil settle for 1-3 weeks and then put it through a filter bag- I use a 5 micron bag from clean grease. No need to waste money on DSE, their secret additive is not needed. Try Iso-heet instead- it will probably work better too. I did find the DSE manual helpful, but they really make their money by trying to get you to buy hundreds of dollars of the secret ingredient when it is not necessary. For my indirected injected 95 mercedes benz 300D, I have found that their recommendations for amounts of kerosene work fine (I can start with 15% kerosene down to 16 degrees F) but for a TDI this does not work, (started fine with 20% kerosene down to 27 degress, but would not start at 16 degrees), so I have a little more experimenting to do to make it work in the TDI. Here is a chart that is used for biodiesel, (from his forum), and you probably need to go 10% higher for each temp with a blend with a TDI:
% BioDiesel %Kerosene Gel temp in F 10 90 -28 20 80 -23 30 70 -17 40 60 -11 50 50 -5 60 40 2 70 30 9 80 20 16 90 10 24 100 0 32 |
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Help me out here.
I just got a 1983 240 diesel Mercedes. My dad has been wanting to make a grease car for some time and bought himself one also. He is working on setting up a DSE system for us to use. I dont want to use it though if it will mess up my fuel injection pump or anything else like i have read it does. Im 16 and dont want to spend my money on gas so what is a cheap way to run my car that wont mess it up? also i live in the north-east and it gets realy cold up here sometimes. any help will be appreciated. |
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Why should we help someone who can't be bothered to even even read this discussion from the beginning to find that all their questions have already been answered?.
Biofuels may not be for you, it takes work, effort and research. --.- ..- . ... - .. --- -. / .- ..- - .... --- .-. .. - -.-- '89 Toyota 3.4L TDI + FPHE BD+ULSD+VO+JetB blends |
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borderboi;
Welcome to the forum. You will notice in my signature that I have 2 of said 240D Benzes. I used to have a SVO system (2 tank heated straight oil)set up in one of them, but yanked it out as it was allowing vegie to be sent back to the main tank. This was fine as long as it was warm and I ran B100 in the main tank,the two being completely miscible, but as soon as it got cooler the petro diesel and vegie gumed everything up and caused no end of trouble and expense, so I yanked it. Now I produce my own biodiesel and run both cars on 100% without a hitch (as well as 2 farm tractors at the moment with more on the way) The benefit of converting the fuel rather than the vehicle is that the fuel will run in any diesel engine unmodified, and the one time expense of setting up a proper reactor system is offset by fuel costs in very little time. Now if you have more than one vehicle being fueled by the same system then the economy is quicker felt. Do yourself a favour, convert the fuel. Maybe you and your Dad can go in on this project together ? It's a great car, will last you many years well cared for, so don't risk it by using a short term solutions like DSE. Both mine are in the 500K Km range original mileage and still have plenty of life in them. Should the exterior body give out eventually the engine will still be suitable for a generator motor that can still be fueled with 100% biodiesel. The cold is a challenge. I have been running a 50/50 blend since late November, although for most of that time it hasn't been necessary, and next winter the plan is to run the tank 1/2 full, go 100% biodiesel and carry 40Lt petro diesel in the trunk for when there is an unexpected temperature drop and then blend. I figure the way things are going I will not have to use up that much dino (fosil fuel- dino from the Flintstones - dinosaur...) over the winter. I am in Canada, and it does get nasty cold here at times :-)  **My reactor/processor :B100WH.com ** Video of my system **The Colaborative Biodiesel Tutorial **B100 Heated Winter System ** Biodiesel Glycerine Soap - Make & sell soap from Biodiesel Glycerine |
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Because John, he is 16 and asked for help,simple. **My reactor/processor :B100WH.com ** Video of my system **The Colaborative Biodiesel Tutorial **B100 Heated Winter System ** Biodiesel Glycerine Soap - Make & sell soap from Biodiesel Glycerine |
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For starters, Thank You for your highly instructive and intuitive article about your processor. It rates up there, if not, more, informative than the highly popular book(s) by Joshua Tickell.
As a relative newby/wannabe, I’m in the process of acquiring an ’82 300TD from an estate (113K original), and looking in as many directions as I can to securing some good low-cost miles. I have been collecting WVO for the past year or so, so I have about a 500 gallon head-start to run a left-over home furnace as my heat source, and plan to incorporate that into my processor. The thought pops up… looking over my various batches, that there are several types, grades and conditions of WVO to be found out there, and sparks concerns about which is which. The range runs from the fine looking corn oil from a Japanese restaurant, to the strange-looking concoction from a barbeque joint, to the almost orange-paint looking mess I get from a Mexican joint. Reading the labels of the left-over boxes, it’s clear that they run the gamut from good to cheap for the operators, but so far, I have no guide as to potential fuel values; corn ? canola? soy? hydrogenated? Will there be a sorting order to follow? A peek at the cubies after a week or so will offer clues as to their likely yield based on the level of the “fat-line” separation point, but until I get started, or begin using a centrifugal cleaner that I procured from a machine shop, I won’t have results to show. Any info you can offer for a place to start? |
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First, I would like to say hello to everyone, ~hi~. I am in the process of aquiring enough containers to store the WVO I have talked to local restraunt owners about hauling off for free, "huge smiles of thier faces" and my question is; How much do you think is possible for a home based set up to make?
Currently I have a 5,000 gallon container to store it in and several 55 gallon poly drums. I am relativly new to making bio and have just been mixing 50/50 WVO and petro diesel, only when its warm outside, with no problems [NOTE: I will never put gasoline or kerosine or any other thinner in my truck, even if it works for others, I will not take that chance], anyways... I would like to make enough to help out the small farmers in my local area with thier fuel costs and will be collecting about 250 gallons a week, is it possible for one person to make that much?, or should I scale down a bit??? As far as I know I am the only person in my town of 12,000 people collecting/going to make bio and I realy hate to see this good, clear WVO go to waste. Comment on DSE aka Snake oil aka Huge headache for a hippe friend of mine, A friend of mine bought and Modified a bus with a set up to blend DSE and such in the back with the hope of traveling across country, Every city-nonstop for the rest of his "busses" life, that was about about 1200 miles in which he had a massive failure in his fuel system, got screamed at by a diesel mecanic in the middle of nowhere, and had to pay $2300 to have his bus towed back to the starting line, where it still sits waiting for the next go at cross country Enough with the neverending post, but the lesson I learned from someone elses folly is that Snake oil Priced at $200 can quickly become a $6,300 unintended purchase. proud owner of a 1983 GMC JIMMY 6.2l Diesel thats eaten 3 dear  ,2 cars  and rolled once(previous owner) but still as strong as ever  |
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Betruitt, mixing gas or kerosene with diesel is a normal "up north" response to winter. My Benz owner's manual says it's OK to mix up to 30% gasoline into the diesel fuel when it's under 0F. Kerosene is perfect to mix because it's close to diesel in it's burn properties, but is thinner. as long as you have at least 5% WVO or BD in it, you won't have lubrication problems. Granted the Benz IP is tougher than the 6.2's IP...
Beware of large scaling your production. If you collect & make anything (WVO, BD, a blend, etc.) and sell it as fuel, you are liable for damage to the fueled vehicle if it's bad BD or WVO, must have a fuel retailer's license, probably, must collect road tax (except for the farm stuff), lots to consider. The bigger your operation, the more likely someone's going to complain. 1985 Mercedes 300D, sold, Heat exchanger and injector line heaters, all single tank. 1997 E300D Benz using 50% diesel, 50% VO single tank |
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Reply: you can file a complaint with the Better Business Bureau of Acadiana, Margaret Ansley, Operations Manager 4007 west Congess Street, Suite B, Lafayette, LA 70506. Her email address is Margaret@bbb.tzo.com
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I ended up with $4100 damage. DieselSecret of course denying their mixture and additive not the problem. File a complaint with the Better Business Bureau of Acadania, 4007 West Congress Street, Suite B, Lafayette, LA 70506 Attn: Margaret Ansley, Operations Manager. Her email address is Margaret@bbb.tzo.com
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