Hello and thank you for all the responses. I'm the unfortunate soul that owns the truck in question.

All of your suggestions and thoughts are very much appreciated! Thank You!

I thought i would give an update on the current situation and see what is recommended...

I went to Kragen Auto and purchased an OBDII scan tool (jdoughy, they don't rent or lend them out in California) and got 5 readings:
1. P1755 TRany throttle valve control circut (this is what set off the engine light)
2. P0201 Injector circuit open - cyl #1
3. P0202 "" - cyl #2
4. P0203 "" - cyl #3
5. P2509 ECM/PCM Power input signal intermittent


I also bought a Chilton book for my engine, which recommended against attempting to remove the injectors for inspection at home, and that I would spend more on the special tools i would need than if i just paid the dealership to do it. The book did not offer any instructions for replacing the injectors. WTF? I have plenty of tools and would like to know if this is really true.
AND I WOULD REALLY LIKE TO FIND INSTRUCTIONS ON HOW TO REPLACE INJECTORS PROPERLY!

Does anybody know what these codes are trying to tell me? I'm wondering if the last one has anything to do with the fact that i disconnected the neg. cables from both batteries two different times.

I'm also curious of the pattern of the injectors listed in the codes: 1,2,and 3. Does this mean that fuel might be getting to these injectors first, and that the next one to go could be #4, then 5 and 6?

It also said that the Fuel Rail Pressure was 813.66 psi, when cranking at only 62.75 rpm. is that within normal operation pressure? I know that 62rpm is LOW, and i will hook up the charger and try this again.

I read from a tech that the fuel rail pressure needs to be at least 2k psi to start the engine.


Still waiting for time to tackle the tank cleaning? I'm not really sure why it needs to be taken out off the truck. Is it so that i can slosh it around to clean it?

any help is much appreciated

Oh BTW

we are talking about a 2006 dodge cummings

while not real familiar with the dodges, I am familiar with the new trucks in general. I would say your injectors codes are trying to tell you one of 2 things....your not getting enought pressure to them or the computer that tells them to fire is bad. Now that could also be due to a sensor issue, whichever one read fuel pressure and tells the ecm its ok to fire them.I doubt that is the case becasue you would have a code set for whatever sensor that would be.
Second I think that following the above train of thought, given the previous post by Kumar, I would still bet your real issue is not getting enough fuel to the IP to pressurize the system, leading me to a clogged intake screen still. The tank doesnt need to be dropped if you pull the bed, but I would still think its easier to remove the lines, electric, fill to the tank and drop it. Slide it out from the truck inspect the screen and sending unit, inspect the tank and reinstall. That is my personal opinion and the way I would approach the problem.

too bad about not lending, but it's always good to have a scanner anyway.

quick search turned up the following:

injector replacement - from cummins forum

the P020(1,2,3) looks like it could be a number of things, from the wiring harness leading to the injectors (which is somehow affected by the valve gasket) to the injector coils themselves. looks to be a simple diagnosis w/ a multimeter. plenty of info if you search the cummins forum. try diesel bombers & others too.

yup, the last could be from disconnecting the batteries, or a bad ground. prolly the least of your concerns right now.

don't know squat about the frp at that rpm, though it seems way too low to me. forums search or bosch???

hook is still right about the tank removal & was the one who pushed me to do this when one of mine took a dump. (BTW - thanks hook! wasn't it, but definitely helped.) it's mostly about cleaning out the sending unit & the pickup. dropping & reinstalling those tanks is easy - only takes 15 to 20 minutes round trip. from what you said before, it's probably fine, but IMO it's usually better to methodically eliminate potential issues.

good luck

i dropped the tank and inspected the screen, which is on the bottom of the sending unit (that thing is larger than i expected) and i see a few little specs of dirt on the screen, but it looks pretty clean in general (no sign of soup). However there is some filmy looking stuff on the bottom of the tank when i look inside. I swipe my finger through it and it's pretty slimey.

I want to place a bucket of good fuel near where the tank goes and drop the sending unit in there and plug it into the wire harness and back flush the fuel system. But should i take all the fuel lines away from the injectors so they don't get even more gunked up?

thanx

WAG here...but I seem to remember reading the fuel pressures on these newer common rails are five digit numbers at WOT and cruising power, somewhere north of 25,000psi, and yeah, probably closer to 4-5K just for starting. In other words...incredibly high and why you need expensive special tools and training to safely work on common rail diesels.

One more reason to like my Powerstroke.... I'm all for being a shade tree mechanic, but if what you read in Diesel Power is to be believed...if a new fuel filter and a scrubbed fuel tank and pickup screen don't fix it (and I had an intermittent dog hair in my fuel tank problem that got solved when that screen got cleaned), then it's time to turn it over to the pros. This ain't your grand daddy's 5.9L Cummins and it really could be something pricey and difficult to fix. Sucks...

sounds like you found your problem...soaps that settled out.
You can try back flushing the lines into the tank, then cleaning the tank, or removing the lines from the injector rail, do like you said, and let the pump run to blow out whatever else might be in the lines still. If that fails, time to get professional help with it.

Go to www.dieselram.com it"s free...Post in the 3rd Gen section/Powertrain. Good luck.

Did you ever find out what the problem was? I might be late on this one but I did some digging in the factory service manual.

Excerpts from the 2006 Dodge Ram FSM:
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High-pressure fuel is supplied from the injection pump, through a high-pressure fuel line, into a fuel rail, through high-pressure lines, through steel connectors and into the solenoid actuated fuel injector. The ECM actuates the solenoid causing the needle valve to rise and fuel flows through the spray holes in the nozzle tip into the combustion chamber.
Each fuel injector is connected to the fuel rail by a high-pressure fuel line and a steel connector. This steel connector is positioned into the cylinder head and sealed with an O-ring. The connector is retained in the cylinder head by a nut (fitting) that is threaded into the cylinder head. The torquing force of this threaded nut (fitting) provides a sealing pressure between the fuel line connector and the fuel injector. Retaining nut torque is very critical. If the nut (fitting) is under torqued, the mating surfaces will not seal and a high-pressure fuel leak will result. If the fitting is over torqued, the connector and injector will deform and also cause a high-pressure fuel leak. This leak will be inside the cylinder head and will not be visible. The result will be a possible fuel injector miss-fire and low power, or a no-start condition.

The fuel injectors use hole type nozzles. High-pressure flows into the side of the injector, the ECM activates the solenoid causing the injector needle to lift and fuel to be injected. The clearances in the nozzle bore are extremely small and any dirt or contaminants will cause the injector to stick. Because of this, it is very important to do a thorough cleaning of any lines before opening up any fuel system component. Always cover or cap any open fuel connections before a fuel system repair is performed.

Each fuel injector connector tube contains an edge filter that is designed to break up small contaminants before entering the fuel injector. The edge filters are not a substitute for proper cleaning and covering of all fuel system components during repair.
---------------------------

Maybe the edge filters or fuel injector nozzle tip holes are plugged. I'm not sure if the fuel injector needles being stuck would cause the P0201-P0203 codes but I have a feeling it would.

The test procedure in the FSM says with the ignition off, disconnect the pigtail nuts from the suspect injector(s). Using an Ohmmeter, measure the resistance between the solenoid posts of the injector. Resistance should be less than 1 ohm and greater than 0 ohms. If not, it says to replace the injector. Injector replacement probably isn't a DIY project. It requires special tools and the torque values are critical.

I suspect you ran the battery voltage down while trying to start it causing the other codes.

P1755: The current detected on the TTVA circuit is greater than a threshold for a calibrated amount of time or the feedback to the controller does not match the intended state.
Turn the key on for 30 seconds and it should recalibrate itself.
The TTVA does require an initialization period after the actuator has been removed or replaced. After the actuator has been removed or replaced, move the ignition to the ON position for thirty (30) seconds. This will allow the ECM sufficient time to perform the internal calibration procedures to learn the TTVA’s current “zero” position.

P2509 POWERDOWN DATA LOST ERROR: Loss of voltage detected at the ECM for a calibrated amount of time. Low battery voltage is listed as a possible cause of this code.

Hope this helps.

Ken