Wayne,
Could you please explain exactly what you mean when you say {I now avoid that by pre-treating all the oil for my winter fuel with glycerin. Now nothing cold filters out, even after freezing solid!)[/QUOTE]
This sounds interesting!
Thanks,

Its a Glycerin PreTreatement. Good for pulling animal fats out of your vegetable oil (from animal products fried in the oil).

Removing the animal fats can consequently lower the FFA level, lower the overall gel point, or remove the bits with the highest gel point that settle or filter out as the first to gel; depends on how much and how acidic the animal fats are to start with.

My oil sees almost entirely fries, onion rings, cheddar nuggets, fish, etc. Glycerin pretreat does almost nothing for this oil. But the one time 5gallons of burger grease was dumped in the 30gallons of vege oil, the glycerin pretreat dropped all the grease out and dropped the titration of that 30gallons from 25ml KOH to 9ml KOH (or something like that, can remember exact numbers).

If you know a lot of hot dogs, brats, sausage, pork patties, chicken breasts even, (maybe), etc is fried in your oil; things with fat that will gel at room temp, you can make your fuel more winterized by glycerin treating to remove these fats.

Its cool; I was contemplating some sort of continuous treating set-up on my drive to work today......kind of an oil-bubble washer.

Using biodiesel can affect your memory.

My wife ran out of biodiesel a long way from home, so had to call into a filling station. (AARGHH!)

She hadn't been to a filling station for so long, she'd forgotten that there is a reason all the nozzles are different colors...

The nearest nozzle was the green one, for unleaded gas ...

You can guess the rest!

This was our only issue with biodiesel on our 2 cars over the past 2 years.

quote:

You can guess the rest!

Oh but Graham, it's such a great story, I just had to post the link to it!

B100 fof 2,350 miles so far in my 05 Jeep liberty.
I have not had to change a filter yet nor have I had any problems.
Best thing no line at the petrol station for me!

MOZZIO...is your 05 jeep liberty's engine the same as the 07 cherokee's 3.0 common rail? jon-uk advises to use a max of b30. I woulk like to know what problems a stronger blend up to b100 could cause? A dealer told me they were having problems with the engine light coming on with this engine, and I'm talking about suing straight dino diesel. Nothing wrong with the engine though. I have driven the 07 cherokee and love it, but would surely run it on b100.

Rick G;

Sorry, didn't get back to this thread for a few days. Yes, it's the Clycerine Pre Treatment that RyanP refers to. I mix 2 to 5 gallons of un-demethed glycerine byproduct with 50 gallons of WVO (More glycerine for worse oil or colder weather expected) and let it sit for a few days to a week (more time for worse oil or if colder weather is expected). Draw off the oil on top of the sludge that settles to the bottom and process it. Disgaurd the sludge.

I've used B100 made this way in temps well below freezing with no problems.

There's some great info here. Thanks everyone and keep them coming.

quote:

Originally posted by pappa:
MOZZIO...is your 05 jeep liberty's engine the same as the 07 cherokee's 3.0 common rail? jon-uk advises to use a max of b30. I woulk like to know what problems a stronger blend up to b100 could cause? A dealer told me they were having problems with the engine light coming on with this engine, and I'm talking about suing straight dino diesel. Nothing wrong with the engine though. I have driven the 07 cherokee and love it, but would surely run it on b100.

Liberty's have a VM Motori 2.8l CRD engine. No idea what your engine make is. I've heard rumors of people like me (I have an '05 Liberty CRD, too) who have run 30k+ miles on B100 homebrew with no ill effects whatsoever.

Changed out some weeping injector lines. Changed my pre-filters a few times but no real issues using B75 for the last 1.5 years. I did have a hard starting issue using B100 but they do just fine on B75.

I have a fuel leak near my lift pump. Ugh.

So far, (knock on wood), nothing - no fuel related problems. Although the dealer thought that my break light switch failure might have been caused by BD use , until the recall from VW.

quote:

Originally posted by GrahamLaming:
She hadn't been to a filling station for so long, she'd forgotten that there is a reason all the nozzles are different colors...

The nearest nozzle was the green one, for unleaded gas ...

Weird- around here, the only green nozzles are the diesel ones. Usually green hoses too. It's like that everywhere I've been in California, and I kind of assumed it was elsewhere as well. The gasoline nozzles are always black and look very different with the accordion vapor recovery component.

Just last night I saw a compact car report on TV. They were filling it up from a green nozzle, gasoline.

quote:

Originally posted by kumar:
...I kind of assumed it was elsewhere as well...

I thought that way about green mile markers on the side of the road, until I tried to report an accident in California...

-Jim

'87 MB 300SDL. I've had several problems which I was leaning towards blaming B100 for, but when all was said and done...the problems continued after switching back to dinofuel!...so, only thing definitely related to BD was the seal around the filler like I've noticed a few others mention...I saw replacement seals available (does anyone know if the replacements are BD resistant?) ...and I had to pull my tank once to clean out the tar and nicotine loosened by the BD after smoking the unhealthy dinofuel for the first 356K miles of its life. The sending unit needed cleaning as well. Injector return lines needed replacing but I don't think that was BD related. That's it...running now about 6 months on BD with an occasionl tank of dinofuel when temp drops below 15F ...might not be totally necessary but I wasn't chancing getting stuck.

Rich

quote:

Originally posted by Kumar:
Weird- around here, the only green nozzles are the diesel ones. Usually green hoses too.

I've never seen a green hose on a commercial fuel dispensing pump. I've seen green gasoline nozzles before, but I haven't been in California in the past 5 years. Is this something new?

Ken

I have a 2005 Sprinter and I read the post from TheLandYacht My home brue runs great at 50% in a 2001 F350 but the Sprinter dose not like the tast of it if.
The dealer said 5%
If TheLandYacht could help me with his fix it would be great

Well I've had a lot of fuel tank problems, mostly related to the learning curve on my part, using fuel with too much water in it, an experiment with a WVO/D2 mix before I really started with biodiesel, poor filtration, poorly converted bio, all caused problems with plugging inline fuel filters, somewhat plugging of the main filter too. I gunked up the tanks with some of my experiments. I also had a problem with fat dropping out of chicken fat B99 in cold weather. When I've had good fuel without other tank contamination, I've had gooey cheap rubber fuel hoses. I also replaced an injection pump because it was leaking at the shaft seals, whether that was bio-related, just a very poor build, or because I habitually ran the thing out of fuel due to the crappy fuel gauges and the aforementioned plugged filters. Sorry to add a bad report, but I believe my problems are due to poor fuel and my stupidity, None of these problems have been present since I have made sure of acceptable or better biodiesel and a remote tank. I'm going to go with a set of new tanks and I believe all will be well. BTW truck is a 1986 F250 6.9 with about 193,100 miles, it has seen bio or blends mostly for around the last 30,000 miles.

While Running B-100 in my 96 Jetta one of the injector lines started leaking where it goes into the engine. I couldn't see the leak. It dribbled into the clutch housing and 'lubricated' the clutch. I didn't have time to fool with it so $500 later I found out the problem. I had the mechanic change out the engine rear seal as it looked like Buna.

My buddy had suggested after the repair that I put the front bumper against a concrete wall and slowly let out the clutch to burn off the bio.

I also had a flat tire under the area where the fuel filler port is. It was suggested at the time that is was probably the bio the 'melted' the tire... the rim was rusty...

Whay is it always the Bio???