That's kinda what I figured. So like every truck, Ford has their share of "what the @#$% where they thinking?" items.

Plastic gears......DUH!

"Save a half a cent times 5million trucks" thinking again...

That wasn't Ford's fault concerning the IP. Remember that the engine was developed by Navistar (International Harvester) at the time.

1998.5 dodge ram 2500 24v cummins.

2 clogged filters.
2 fuel pressure sender leaked and then went bye bye.

Eugene

I've had a ton of problems to work out on my SVO system on my Superburban, but the only problems from bio were a whole bunch of clogged filters right at first.
My brother started using my bio in his Powerstroke Excursion a few months ago. Two weeks ago, he had a big vibration/power loss problem. When he took it in to the mechanic, the biodiesel was immedietely blamed. Blamed for the vibration. Blamed for the power loss. Blamed for the tear in the driver's seat. Blamed for the DVD player skipping. Needless to say, my brother was not a big fan of mine for the next little while.
A few days later, the mechanic called him back and confessed that the problem was caused by a connector coming loose under the valve cover.
Sweet vindication.
Oh, yeah. The only problem experienced on bio with the Excursion was a clogged fuel filter after the second tankfull.

All of the following applies to "Elegant Madame" (1986 MB 300SDL):

2,204 miles on B100 and I have poor acceleration on 100+ degree F days. I have not changed fuel filters since the acceleration problem only occurs on the drive home.

The rubber gasket around my tank filler neck has become quite gooey. I believe it might just be the fumes because I have yet to spill any biodiesel "there".

Any help from anyone on these issues would be helpful.

83 Mazda B2200 (100,000 miles on BD/SVO) - roughly 16-20 main fuel filters, about 30 SVO filters, and 3 G-2's. Only had to change 2 main filters on the road in 6 years. IP throttle shaft o-ring leaked (at 190,000 miles) so I replaced it. Did not run in winter for 2 years in a row due to gelled BD. Now I put BD in the heated tank, and pump diesel in the unheated one in winter. Original fuel lines.

1986 VW Jetta 1.6 TurboDiesel (less than 10,000 miles on BD) 1 filter. Leaking injector hoses, replaced with Biodiesel-proof Tygon fuel line. Original fuel lines.

'83 Ford Ranger (20,000 miles on BD). 2 or 3 main filters. Original fuel lines.

'64 Land Rover (24,000 miles on BD). Nothing at all. Haven't even changed filters. Canola for crankcase oil because it burns waaaaay too much. Friends following me complain they're hungry all the time.

quote:

Originally posted by daw:
All of the following applies to "Elegant Madame" (1986 MB 300SDL):

2,204 miles on B100 and I have poor acceleration on 100+ degree F days. I have not changed fuel filters since the acceleration problem only occurs on the drive home.

The rubber gasket around my tank filler neck has become quite gooey. I believe it might just be the fumes because I have yet to spill any biodiesel "there".

Any help from anyone on these issues would be helpful.

I would change the fuel filter first. Then I would wonder about the sock filter in the tank. From what I understand, those are fun to clean/remove. Some get short term improvement by blowing air through the line to temporarily unclog the tank/sock filter.

PS, if you try this, make sure you take the fuel cap off, so you don't burst/split/inflate your fuel tank. Life is exciting enough without "blowing up" your fuel tank.

HTH,

troy

quote:

Originally posted by troy:

quote:

Originally posted by daw:
All of the following applies to "Elegant Madame" (1986 MB 300SDL):

2,204 miles on B100 and I have poor acceleration on 100+ degree F days. I have not changed fuel filters since the acceleration problem only occurs on the drive home.

The rubber gasket around my tank filler neck has become quite gooey. I believe it might just be the fumes because I have yet to spill any biodiesel "there".

Any help from anyone on these issues would be helpful.

I would change the fuel filter first. Then I would wonder about the sock filter in the tank. From what I understand, those are fun to clean/remove. Some get short term improvement by blowing air through the line to temporarily unclog the tank/sock filter.

PS, if you try this, make sure you take the fuel cap off, so you don't burst/split/inflate your fuel tank. Life is exciting enough without "blowing up" your fuel tank.

HTH,

troy

Hi Troy.

Interesting concept regarding the screen filter in the tank and I have thought about it....but why do I NOT have the acceleration problem in the morning and not as much at lunch. It is definitely a heat related issue and may not be fuel related. Is it possible to get "vapor" locked running B100?

This car was previously run on B100 and the Previous Owner changed a bunch of fuel filters, so I seriously doubt if I have much "gunk" in the tank.

So, any thoughts about the B100 vapors eating away at my tank filler neck rubber flange?

Dear Daw,

The tank sock could be an intermitent problem, since it's a fairly coarse filter. A few more chunks fall off and it gets better, a few more holes get plugged as you go along and it gets worse.

I'm just guessing. It's not an uncommon problem though.

Your tank filler thingee could be just old. They do go rotten after a while.

You can't have vapor lock in the same way that gasoline engines can have that problem. Gasoline can cause vapor lock problems for carbureted engines at 140F more or less, depending. But biodiesel won't boil or cause vapor problems until you are well above 3 or 400F, in which case, you have other problems.

I don't deny that it could have some temperature related issue, it's just not vapor lock.

HTH,

troy

Sub (265k miles) and Blazer (255k miles) 6.2's started using BD a year ago running about 75% in hot weather and 25% in cold weather. That's about 12K miles on each vehicle. Had mushy injector return lines and only a couple of semi-plugged filters. I would run B100 but my old 6.2's don't like to start cold on the stuff. No other issues other than slightly less power.

daw,

Stick a vacuum guage in the line between your final fuel filter and your injection pump (as the svo boys do) and monitor your trips.
regards
dva

1981 VW Rabbit running on various blends (B20 to B100) for 3 years:

- some leaky fuel lines and now the trim is coming off right under my fuel tank cap.

- might need a IP re-seal one day, but (knock on wood ) not yet!

06 Duramax. That has had exactly 1 litre of Biod run through it...as an additive.! Best additive to ULSD there is I am told. As such, this thread is all the testimonial I will ever need..!!

On the fuel fitler thing though, it is a well known issue..seems BioD cleans out all the gunk and crap out of ones tank and fuel system.

Be curious to know if after those filters clogged up and were replaced, did this event repeat itself when running B100 all the time after switching or is this just a function of changing to BioD after always running dino diesel and/or running blends of BioD & Dino..??

rgds,

stk

quote:

Originally posted by Steakman:
06 Duramax. That has had exactly 1 litre of Biod run through it...as an additive.! Best additive to ULSD there is I am told. As such, this thread is all the testimonial I will ever need..!!

On the fuel fitler thing though, it is a well known issue..seems BioD cleans out all the gunk and crap out of ones tank and fuel system.

Be curious to know if after those filters clogged up and were replaced, did this event repeat itself when running B100 all the time after switching or is this just a function of changing to BioD after always running dino diesel and/or running blends of BioD & Dino..??

rgds,

stk

Correct... And once it is gone it is gone..

I have a 2006 VW Beetle with 40000 miles on B100 and less in the winter. I have a new 2007 GMC Deisel truck with B100 approx 1500 miles on B100.
I have not had a filter nor any problems using the fuel I make.
I hope it lasts

1999 PSD F250 with 100K on the ticker and power chip installed - 10K with unwashed biodiesel. No problems just needed to replace a fuel filter. The "water in fuel" light comes on and I empty the water separator of soap. Happens about once per tank of fuel. I don't water wash my B100 just settle for 1 week and filter. Works for me.

1995 E300D Benz - 30K with the same dirty B100. No problems at all. Ran like a champ and I loved that car, but just sold it to make room for the truck.

1998.5 Dodge Ram 3500 24v Cummins engine. 100,000+ miles on various blends, mostly on B100. (Oh yeah, all of it off road, of course. No tax problems wanted here!)

Many, many, many problems with this truck, but mostly caused by Chrysler, not by biodiesel! Once was told that my lift pump failed because of biodiesel destroying the "rubber diaphragm" inside it. I cut open the old pump and found it is a metal vane pump with no rubber diaphragm. Soaked all the old parts in everything from B100 to pure sodium methoxide for almost a year with no damage to them. The problem with these pumps is improper installation by Chrysler, not biodiesel!

The only true biodiesel related problem I had was an incident of fuel filters plugging within a few miles after a really cold night. Dreaded white stuff had cold filtered out of my homebrew B100 in the tank and was clogging the filters. I now avoid that by pre-treating all the oil for my winter fuel with glycerin. Now nothing cold filters out, even after freezing solid!

My only contribution as usual is inane: I think you mean "bare" your soul.
I have a terrible stain on the paint below my fuel filler
Brian Rodgers

1981 300SD
-changed filter before starting bio
-changed fuel lies before bio

-1 clogged filter in a year
-bio ate return line plug (non-oem was made from epoxy!?, plugged with random round piece of metal)
-no other issues

quote:

Originally posted by Boss:
I think you mean "bare" your soul.
Brian Rodgers

Thanks...I suck at spelling certain words.
All fixed.
-Graydon