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VP44 and BioDiesel-My story
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Hey all,

I've been brewing what I would like to think as good quality fuel for a number of years using the sage knowledge and methodologies garnered from this wonderful site.

My fuel is always washed and completly dried prior to it going into my tank, I am quite anal when it comes to things like that.

About a month ago my truck (98.5 24v) died abruptly, no warning other than some surging and would not start. I tried everything before caving in to "this could be an injector pump issue"

Long story short, I swapped out the pump and lightened my wallet substantially. Back in business. The pump rebuilder (a trusted source) did a quick autopsy on my pump and noted "internal damage consistant with water contaminated fuel"

At first I thought "no way" but now that I think about it, how could it not....really. Consider this, even though my fuel is fully converted, washed and dry, the minute I add petro diesel from a filling station I run the risk of water contamination. (no secret there) Given BD is hygroscopic in nature, it will absorb the water and my pump suffers.

The same condition persists during the transient months during fall and spring (winter as well, but BD use is limited here during Canadian winters)when condensation readily forms inside fuel tanks.

I don't know how to effectively deal with this and must admit, am a little gun shy about using BD in any concentration again. what I really need to hear I suppose is whether this is an accurate account of what's happening or am I "all wet"

Any thought/comment or discussion most welcome.

Cheers,

Ram


98.5 Cummins Ram running "bd-neat"
 
Location: Ottawa Ontario, Canada | Registered: September 13, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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What method do you use to measure the moisture content of your dried and finished fuel?


Alvin
'01 F250 7.3 4x4 Lariat Crew
'95 Mercedes Benz E300 D
 
Location: Seattle | Registered: January 06, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Strickly visual. My fuel is bright and sparkling.

I must be able to see the bottom of my washdrum with a flashlight before I use it.

Ram


98.5 Cummins Ram running "bd-neat"
 
Location: Ottawa Ontario, Canada | Registered: September 13, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I too, can see through my biodiesel to the bottom of my wash tank on my final wash cycle before it even goes to the drying tank. You might be surprised at how much moisture is suspended in clear biodiesel. My first test while drying, when I think it's getting close, is to put a sample in a clean jar and place it in an ice bath. When it's down to about 45F or so, it should still be clear. If you see any suspended wisps, that's water. A more detailed quantitative test is the weigh-heat-weigh menthod. The vapor test is another method. If you have any of your bio, give some of these tests a shot to see where you're at.


Alvin
'01 F250 7.3 4x4 Lariat Crew
'95 Mercedes Benz E300 D
 
Location: Seattle | Registered: January 06, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Excellent post binuya,

I will incorporate these into my process. Perhaps there is enough water in my final product to mess things up. There still remains however, the unavoidable "slug" of water one might expect from the filling station or condensation as I mentioned earlier.

I fear these are the real culprits.

Any suggestions? I was thinking of draining my fuel tank on a regular basis to see but this seems like a real PITA.

Cheers,

Ram


98.5 Cummins Ram running "bd-neat"
 
Location: Ottawa Ontario, Canada | Registered: September 13, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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The most sensitive home water test can be found here:
http://www.make-biodiesel.org/...le&id=137&Itemid=169

It was discussed in detail here:
http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/ev...30102221?r=530102221

This test should work equally well with B100 or a blend. It is sensitive enough to give you the confidence you need to run bio again.

Rick
 
Location: Cowboy Country | Registered: December 06, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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quote:
Originally posted by ramjaman:
I will incorporate these into my process. Perhaps there is enough water in my final product to mess things up. There still remains however, the unavoidable "slug" of water one might expect from the filling station or condensation as I mentioned earlier.

I fear these are the real culprits.
Ram


If you have high conversion fuel, AND, all the soap was removed, AND, all the methanol was removed, then all you need to do is to use a fuel station tank with a low drain. Most of the 'fuel' tanks available on the market have a tank drain built into them. Just add a valve to it and drain a sample once a month to remove any settled water.

If condensation in the fuel station tank continues to be a problem, then switch over to 5 gallon (20L) buckets for storage. Fill them full and seal them. Store in a cool dry place out of the sun. When you open one, empty it.

Just some ideas, hope they help.

Rick
 
Location: Cowboy Country | Registered: December 06, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I would be curious to know if what the shop thought was water damage(looks like rust?) was actually polymerization.
 
Location: Redding, CA | Registered: June 22, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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ramjam,

How many miles on your vp44 when it went out?

I have 191,ooo+ on my original, just nursing it along!

Dave


84 MB 300D Turbo Diesel
98.5 Dodge Cummins 5.9
96 B7100 Kubota
 
Location: leavittsburg,Ohio | Registered: September 27, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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