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Dodge 24V WVO setup (Waste Veggie Oil)
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Just documenting my WVO setup I've constructed for my 1999 Cummins 24V with the VP44. I should state that I'm not going to run this as a 100% WVO setup. I'll be running a percentage of diesel fuel or Kerosene in the tank with the WVO as well to help reduce the coking effect WVO can have. In any case I've constructed my system with K.I.S.S. in mind. Not so much in overall complexity. But in components.

I'll start with the tank first. It's a plastic marine tank. It's 23 gallons. It fit inside my toolbox. I wanted to be able to have everything hidden out of sight. Best of all, it was only $33. I did have to clean a layer of varnish out of it (lacquer thinner works great!) and I had to replace the sending unit. I picked up a sender from the local marina shop. $33 for it.



I used a Mallory 4060FI fuel pump for the WVO setup. You can get away with a typical vane style pump for diesel. But WVO is to viscus for a vane pump. The oil will cause the vanes to "stick" in place and stop pumping. The Mallory fuel pumps are a gearotor style pump. So they use a gear to pump.

I used a series of fittings to step it up to 1" NPT into a goldenrod filter. The goldenrod filter is nice since it's clear. I can check on the filter media. One of the worries with WVO is polymerization. A traditional screw on cannister filter wouldn't allow you to see this in that event. Next I stepped it down to a tee with a adjustable pressure regulator. This bleeds off excess pressure back to the tank.



From that point the output from the pump/filter/regulator/tank is fed into my hose in hose setup.



The hose in hose is a 1" ID hose with 1/2" aluminum fuel line inside. I drilled out the center of the 1/2" compression fittings to seal them off. There are tees at both ends to allow coolant to pass through. This allows heat transfer. The key to WVO setups. The total length of the hose in hose is about 15ft. So the fuel is heated plenty by the time it reaches the engine. Here's the end that meets the engine.



I fastened the hose in hose along the frame rail. Also I used a 5/8" heater hose for the return.



I tapped off the head for the heat supply. I used a ball valves to adjust flow. It's also a good idea to valve off the coolant flow in and out in the event you have a leak.



The return line is tied back into the heater core return.



Here's a pic of everything plumbed as well.


On to the engine itself. I used a pair of 1/2" check valves. Most people use expensive valves. But in my opinion that's a more expensive means to do so. And leads to failures.

I used a 4 way fitting to allow for a port for my fuel pressure gauge and my warning light as well.


While I was working on all of this I upgraded my diesel fuel system as well. I used 1/2" fuel lines with a 1/2" draw straw. I used AN fittings I picked up from summit racing. I used the 12mmx1.5 to -8AN adapters. And 90def -8AN fittings.


The VP44


The new fuel pump for diesel


Now for the return. Since the dodge is a return system. You have to have a selector valve for the return.


Now about the return valve. Since I've got a dual pump setup with check valves. You have to have a delay to keep the selector valve feeding back to the WVO tank for purging. Otherwise you'll pump the WVO from the IP, injectors, and lines back into your diesel tank. I built a timer based off the 555 chip. Crude looking inside, I know, but it works.



Here's a video of the controller in action cycling through sources and a purge cycle.
YouTube - WVO controller with purge cycle

Since I don't smoke I used the ash tray for a holder for the controller. Also notice the fuel gauge.


All said and done I've got about $500 in my setup. So in about 5 tanks it'll be paid for.
 
Registered: June 12, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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nice job !

I have almost the exact same setup , except I dont have a purge timer . Does your veggy pump have a return to tank port ?
 
Location: Buffalo NY | Registered: August 22, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by OfOshO:
nice job !

I have almost the exact same setup , except I dont have a purge timer . Does your veggy pump have a return to tank port ?


No, the pump doesn't have a return port. That's why I've got the pressure regulator after the filter. Not that it's really needed. It runs about 22psi just going through that filter.

I do feel that I need to make another modification. I want to drill the toolbox and install a 12V fan to cool the pump as it gets a little warm in there with no airflow and hot oil.
 
Registered: June 12, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Well the VP44 doesn't like WVO so much. I think it's due to the heat and viscosity. I've been getting P0216 (injection pump timing) codes on the WVO setup. But it runs fine on diesel with no codes or issues. I'm thinking I'll remove the hose in hose setup and run a "cold" system where I can run a blend in the other tank. Anyone know of a good blend for cummins?
 
Registered: June 12, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Well the VP44 doesn't like WVO so much. I think it's due to the heat and viscosity. I've been getting P0216 (injection pump timing) codes on the WVO setup. But it runs fine on diesel with no codes or issues. I'm thinking I'll remove the hose in hose setup and run a "cold" system where I can run a blend in the other tank. Anyone know of a good blend for cummins?[/quote]

I hear ya brother. I get the same with mine. I have not found one yet to work with mine. Mostly still running diesel. Any other 24 valvers having any luck?

Dave


98 Dodge 24V 5.9 Turbo
Kubota small farm tractor
Heating house with a Wood Doctor outdoor woodburning furnace
 
Location: Leavittsburg, Ohio | Registered: March 22, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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no problems running biodiesel instead of diesel.

but this is only becase i make BD for the other 2 vehicles I own that are diesels. cheaper to convert the fuel.

-dkenny


'84 bluebird school bus, DD8.2L turbo( 4/2011, the bus tranny has died..Frown 8.23.11 bus driven to scrap yard Frown )
2006 Jeep Liberty CRD Smile - the wife's
99 dodge 2500 5.9l 24v..-mine Smile
everything run B100 when its warm enough Smile
 
Location: RTP, North Carolina | Registered: December 15, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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Well the VP44 doesn't like WVO so much. I think it's due to the heat and viscosity. I've been getting P0216 (injection pump timing) codes on the WVO setup. But it runs fine on diesel with no codes or issues.[/quote]

Hi patracy,

I'm the guy you've been sending replies to on youtube. Checked out your 99 Dodge stuff.

One very important reply was about the vp44 needing to have the temp of the fuel only at a max of 90 deg, F. You stated that was what Bosch
informed you about the pump. The fuel keeps the pump cool as to not fry the electrical components inside the vp44. That is why a 2 tank heated system will not work. You saved me lots of time & money trying to figure this out.

You also stated that you were researching the appleseed processor. Any luck? Any good leads?

Thanks for the free education,
Dave


98 Dodge 24V 5.9 Turbo
Kubota small farm tractor
Heating house with a Wood Doctor outdoor woodburning furnace
 
Location: Leavittsburg, Ohio | Registered: March 22, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by David Kana:
Well the VP44 doesn't like WVO so much. I think it's due to the heat and viscosity. I've been getting P0216 (injection pump timing) codes on the WVO setup. But it runs fine on diesel with no codes or issues.


Hi patracy,

I'm the guy you've been sending replies to on youtube. Checked out your 99 Dodge stuff.

One very important reply was about the vp44 needing to have the temp of the fuel only at a max of 90 deg, F. You stated that was what Bosch
informed you about the pump. The fuel keeps the pump cool as to not fry the electrical components inside the vp44. That is why a 2 tank heated system will not work. You saved me lots of time & money trying to figure this out.

You also stated that you were researching the appleseed processor. Any luck? Any good leads?

Thanks for the free education,
Dave[/QUOTE]

Yep, got the appleseed reactor built. I've got to start on the other tanks (filtration/dewater, and post polishing tank)
 
Registered: June 12, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Yep, got the appleseed reactor built. I've got to start on the other tanks (filtration/dewater, and post polishing tank)

So how's it going, do you have any pix posted on this or any sites yet?

Dave


98 Dodge 24V 5.9 Turbo
Kubota small farm tractor
Heating house with a Wood Doctor outdoor woodburning furnace
 
Location: Leavittsburg, Ohio | Registered: March 22, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I did a ton of online research before I began converting my truck . From my understanding it isn't the heat itself that destroys the electronics on the VP-44 , but the constant heating then cooling . Somthing alone the lines of the constant expansion and contraction of the solder joints in the electronics .

http://www.turbodieselregister.com:80/forums/24-valve-e...100-your-inputs.html

What happens when the code goes on ? Does it run noticably worse ?
 
Location: Buffalo NY | Registered: August 22, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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BTW , how long is your purge cycle?
 
Location: Buffalo NY | Registered: August 22, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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OfOshO,

Thanks for the link, I will check it out. I did a google search & read that somewhere else today as well.


98 Dodge 24V 5.9 Turbo
Kubota small farm tractor
Heating house with a Wood Doctor outdoor woodburning furnace
 
Location: Leavittsburg, Ohio | Registered: March 22, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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I used AN fittings I picked up from summit racing. I used the 12mmx1.5 to -8AN adapters. And 90def -8AN fittings.


Sorry for the Duh question, but if I went to Summit, 25 minute drive from my house, with the above info would that get me the fitting to improve my flow on top of the fuel filter? They would know what I was referring to, correct? Are there any other restrictions on the diesel side?


98 Dodge 24V 5.9 Turbo
Kubota small farm tractor
Heating house with a Wood Doctor outdoor woodburning furnace
 
Location: Leavittsburg, Ohio | Registered: March 22, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by OfOshO:
I did a ton of online research before I began converting my truck . From my understanding it isn't the heat itself that destroys the electronics on the VP-44 , but the constant heating then cooling . Somthing alone the lines of the constant expansion and contraction of the solder joints in the electronics .

http://www.turbodieselregister.com:80/forums/24-valve-e...100-your-inputs.html

What happens when the code goes on ? Does it run noticably worse ?


Can't view your thread on TDR since it's old. (That's why I've never paid for TDR since they think their site is so valuable to hide info)

The code is a P0216. Which is normally the deathbell for the VP44. But this only happened on the WVO setup. It does run worse when it happens. You get a dead pedal. The sign that made me stop the WVO setup was when I dead pedaled on the interstate at 60mph for 2 miles. No power, just stuck at that speed. Luckily no one was around. But that could have been bad otherwise.
 
Registered: June 12, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by OfOshO:
BTW , how long is your purge cycle?


About 1 minute is what it took to purge.
 
Registered: June 12, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by David Kana:
quote:
I used AN fittings I picked up from summit racing. I used the 12mmx1.5 to -8AN adapters. And 90def -8AN fittings.


Sorry for the Duh question, but if I went to Summit, 25 minute drive from my house, with the above info would that get me the fitting to improve my flow on top of the fuel filter? They would know what I was referring to, correct? Are there any other restrictions on the diesel side?


They're not going to have a clue what you need. But I'll do one better for you. Here's all the fitting part numbers you need to convert the stock fuel system on a VP44 24V. I'll provide both ways.

1/2" fuel line

3 - EAR-9919EFGERL (-8 AN to 12mm x 1.5 Male)
3 - AER-FBM1443 (90 Degree, -8 AN Hose Barb to Female -8 AN)


3/8" fuel line

3 - RUS-670510 (6AN Flare to 12mm x 1.5 Metric adapter)
3 - AER-FBM1442 (-6 AN Hose Barb to Female -6 AN)

And the respective hose you'll need.


Both cases you should look at ditching the dodge fuel pump. Install an aftermarket pump down on the frame rail near the tank. The factory design of the pump mounted on the side of the engine is a poor design.

Also you'll need to consider if you want to install a FP gauge as well. It'd be cheaper to use a 1/2" black iron tee with barb fittings to allow for a tap point between the IP and filters.
 
Registered: June 12, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Wow!

How did you learn this stuff? I will have to go with what I have for now. Is it 3/8 or 5/16? Can't remember what I used to go from the tank to the steel line. I agree. Because I spent the money on the Carter, I'm going to have to go with the BD aux pump, that is of course you know of one less that 280 bucks that will replace what I have.

I'm looking on the net for something that I can build myself for making Bio. I have a gas water heater but I shut the gas co. down almost going on 2 years. I have heated 55 gallon drums that I fabricated myself for my wvo blend that never worked in my vehicles. Hopefully appleseed will do the deed. My wife does not have very much faith in my alternative fuel ideas. She wants me to prove her wrong & so would I. I'm smart in music & education but not chemistry.


98 Dodge 24V 5.9 Turbo
Kubota small farm tractor
Heating house with a Wood Doctor outdoor woodburning furnace
 
Location: Leavittsburg, Ohio | Registered: March 22, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by David Kana:
Wow!

How did you learn this stuff? I will have to go with what I have for now. Is it 3/8 or 5/16? Can't remember what I used to go from the tank to the steel line. I agree. Because I spent the money on the Carter, I'm going to have to go with the BD aux pump, that is of course you know of one less that 280 bucks that will replace what I have.

I'm looking on the net for something that I can build myself for making Bio. I have a gas water heater but I shut the gas co. down almost going on 2 years. I have heated 55 gallon drums that I fabricated myself for my wvo blend that never worked in my vehicles. Hopefully appleseed will do the deed. My wife does not have very much faith in my alternative fuel ideas. She wants me to prove her wrong & so would I. I'm smart in music & education but not chemistry.


How did I learn it? By doing. I'm a jack of all trades and a master of none.

3/8" hose will slip over the existing tubing.

Do not pay $280 for the BD aux pump. It's nothing more than another stock pump in a remote location. (Carter)

If you're wanting to spend around that much, pick up an airdog 150 for about $450.

The cheaper way (and what I'm using) would be a "Blue" pump. Holley makes them for about $130. You can get a knock off (same design) for about $90 from summit. Even less on ebay. The best thing to do is pull the regulator spring out and stretch it out a little bit for more pressure. Then install a pressure regulator after the pump. You can get the regulator for about $15. I can get you part numbers if you need them from summit.

Cleaning the oil is key to making bio first. Then titration. Don't rely on a single titration. Run three and average them. That way you don't ruin a batch and waste methanol and lye.
 
Registered: June 12, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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quote:
The best thing to do is pull the regulator spring out and stretch it out a little bit for more pressure. Then install a pressure regulator after the pump. You can get the regulator for about $15. I can get you part numbers if you need them from summit.

Cleaning the oil is key to making bio first. Then titration. Don't rely on a single titration. Run three and average them. That way you don't ruin a batch and waste methanol and lye.

Hi Pat,

Those numbers part numbers would be great!

I've read in a few places to find a place & run some commercial bio in your vehicle to make sure it is compatible with ones vehicle. Bio should run in my stock set up right?

Great tip on titration, thanks.
Dave


98 Dodge 24V 5.9 Turbo
Kubota small farm tractor
Heating house with a Wood Doctor outdoor woodburning furnace
 
Location: Leavittsburg, Ohio | Registered: March 22, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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1/2" fuel line

3 - EAR-9919EFGERL (-8 AN to 12mm x 1.5 Male)
3 - AER-FBM1443 (90 Degree, -8 AN Hose Barb to Female -8 AN)


3/8" fuel line

3 - RUS-670510 (6AN Flare to 12mm x 1.5 Metric adapter)
3 - AER-FBM1442 (-6 AN Hose Barb to Female -6 AN)


That is also excellent!


98 Dodge 24V 5.9 Turbo
Kubota small farm tractor
Heating house with a Wood Doctor outdoor woodburning furnace
 
Location: Leavittsburg, Ohio | Registered: March 22, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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