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Mazda B2200
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I have an 89 Mazda b2200. I bought a rf diesel from ebay that came from japan. I have the engine in and almost redy to start but I am stumped on what kind of relays I need for the injector pump and the glow plugs. Where can I find them? Can I get away with not buying the relays?
 
Location: Homer AK | Registered: January 20, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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The IP connection is probabaly just a 12-volt solenoid valve. Applying +12 to it enables the pump to work. Removing the +12 makes the pump, and engine, stop. No relay required, only the ignition switch.
The glow plug circuit is more complicated, because it might be rather sophisticated. my '82 B2200 (different engine from yours) has glow plugs that initially heat at 12 volts for between 2 and 6 seconds, depending on a temp sensor in the block, then are kept heated at reduced voltage for a few more seconds, then cycle on and off to stay warm until the engine starts. Since the controller in my truck isn't available any longer, other owners who's controllers fail usually replace them with a manually controlled relay and use their own judgement when holding down a "glow" button. Counting to 6 seems like it would be a good starting point.

The glow plugs draw hefty current, so use at least a 30-amp relay. Be sure to also include a suitable circuit breaker or fuse.

My engine also has an intake heater, but surprisingly it isn't shown in the circuit diagram, and not all B2200's have it. Mine also has a vacuum-solenoid controlled intake air valve, whose purpose is to smooth out the idle by partially choking the intake air flow. The control solenoid is mounted off to the side on the fender, and has occasionally malfunctioned due to bad wiring connections, resulting in a dramatic loss of power at any speed, but normal idle. It's a huge headache to diagnose the first time, but trivial after that.

I'd like to hear more about the engine, how it works, how you got it, and how you installed it. Did it bolt up to the transmission easily, or was an adapter necessary? What problems were there? Especially, how it runs and drives.

Cheers,
JohnO
 
Location: Moses Lake, WA, USA | Registered: August 15, 2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Thanks for the sound advice. I have not heard the engine run yet. I will be done with the install this week. I bought the engine on ebay and its supposed to have 40-60 k on it. I had to use the bell housing that came with the engine and the original tranny. The motor mounts lined up nicely but the part of the steering that connects the wheels was in the way so I took it off and had someone weld a bar that I bent to go around the bottom of the oil pan. Everything is on the opposite side then the original. The exhaust now is on the same side as the fuel tank so I ran it up through the bed rather than run it under the drive line or tranny. The fuel tank was easy to drain because of the plug in the bottom of it. The slave cylinder was on the opposite side than the original but now it is closer to the master and there was a section of hose that was right above the new location that looked like it was made for that. The radiator hoses were opposite the original but I got some pieces from the dump and pieced it together. I'll tell you how it runs and drives next week. I ruined the glow plugs through my inexperience and I'm running low on funds. Where can I find glow plugs without ruining a hundred dollar bill? Again thanks for your knowledge.
 
Location: Homer AK | Registered: January 20, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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NAPA is likely to have glow-plugs, but unlikely to list the engine. Hopefully you'll be able to get the numbers off of the old glow-plugs for them to cross-reference.

When I got my most recent 'plugs, NAPA listed three different manufacturers, and 3 different price ranges. I'd first tried the Champion 'plugs, being cheapest. Less than a year later two had stopped working, so I ordered a set of the next more expensive ones (NGK?), which have now been in for about 4 years and still work fine. You might be luckier than me, but they cost about $100 for a set of "good" ones, in my case. Then again, my engine may not have been as popular as yours in the world market.
'Good luck,
JohnO
 
Location: Moses Lake, WA, USA | Registered: August 15, 2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Does your engine have two throttle cables coming from the IP? The gas job only had one to the pedal. Also does yours have some wires/module under the thermostat? I need to figure out how to hook up the temp gauge. Do you have a schematic for the wiring for the gas job or the 82 b2200 you could send? Appreciate the knowledge. -making progress in AK
 
Location: Homer AK | Registered: January 20, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Oh one more thing. I used the wire that was for the coil tho run the solenoid valve on the IP. Is this O.K?
 
Location: Homer AK | Registered: January 20, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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There are places on the web (alldata being one)where for a small fee you can access the manuals for an amount of time and download the information.

Using the ignition wire is a good idea if the solinoid doesn't draw too much and blow the fuse from time to time. You may and I say may have to install a relay to cover that. It's not a big deal and I would still use the ignition wire to contol the relay.


21 years off the grid and counting

 
Location: Muskoka, Ont, Can | Registered: March 23, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Mine has two control cables - one is the "throttle", the other is the cold-start. My engine almost certainly has a different arrangement than your model, but I wouldn't be surprised if yours also uses two control cables. The cold-start lever is easy to identify - it's the one that has a linkage that nudges the throttle open a little.
Mine only has the single electrical connection to the solenoid on the IP. It draws very little current - less than an ignition coil, so your ignition switch should handle it easily.
Gages and instruments change too much from model to model to make my guesses worth much. You need two manuals - one shwing the wiring that's still in your truck, and one for the wiring the engine used to have in it's previous installation. My 1982 model wiring diagram won't do you any good.
Cheers,
JohnO
 
Location: Moses Lake, WA, USA | Registered: August 15, 2001Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Hello
I successfully put the rf diesel in my b2200. Its behaves much like it did with the gas motor. Gets real good milage although I dont know exactly how much because the speedometer doesnt work. Thanks for the advice. It was a cold job in my driveway in AK but I took my time. One more thing. What exactly does the cold start lever do? Can I simply give it a little throttle when I go to start it? I will be converting it to svo soon so I will have many more questions. Thank you again.
 
Location: Homer AK | Registered: January 20, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I am doing the same thing with my 1990 Mazda B2200 I could really use some help with the wiring. Think you could send me a couple of pictures of what wires go where. I have the RF with turbo. It fit in there just like the old one did. Didn't have to modify to much. Here is a link to some pictures of my truck on facebook. I have everything bolted down and just getting the coolant hoses and pumps hooked up this weekend I hope. Then to the wiring. PLEASE HELP!!!

http://www.facebook.com/home.p...=128712&id=831583451
 
Location: Missouri | Registered: July 14, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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you still need of an ignition coil for the ignition switch. but it's best to check for updates. models and wirings (and their diagrams) may vary from time to time to prevent these ignition coil symptoms.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: flossie127,
 
Registered: October 19, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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