BIODIESEL & SVO DISCUSSION FORUMS






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83 Olds 98 questions
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Hi all! First off, I have been driving 6.2's since 1988, and got my first 5.7 (80 Delta 88) in aboout 1987, but I haven't had a 5.7 for about 12 or 13 years. Anyhow, I just had to have another, and bought a 1983 98 sight unseen that supposedly has a bad tranny, but good engine. Several questions--My last 5.7 was an 82 Olds 98 that had a 200R4, so I assume this would assume this would also. I have a good 200R4 from an 84 gas Olds. Will it work with the Diesel-- should I use a new Diesel torque converter with it. ect. I am going to go pick the car up with a tow dolly in about 2 weeks, and my plan is to get it back home (where it should also be a low warmer lol)start it up,see how the engine sounds,and check the coolant overflow very carefully for bubbles.If no bubbles and the engine sounds good, replace the tranny. If bubbles,pull the engine and tranny and replace the head gaskets using ARP studs. Several more questions-- A machine shop quoted me $200 to O-ring the block, which sounds very reasonable to me (a shop with a very good reputation ). Any comments about ringing the block? Also, I have heard that Victor-Rienz(?)gaskets are slightly better than FelPro. I keep . hearing about copper gaskets, but have so far found none for 5.7 Diesel.Any other comments/advice will be greatly appreciated. FWIW-I got the car on EBay,at what so far seems a avery reasonable price, but the seller got the car just like it is, and knows very little about it mechanically except that he did say it had been sitting a while, and he got it started,it smoked a lot, then settled down and sounded good. I have 2 other good DX engines that only have blown head gaskets, so if the engine turns out to be no good, I can fix one of them.I am an old geezer and just want a reliable drive train and good mileage, and not that concerned with power, or lack of.As I said, any advice will be appreciatedn and I want to wish everyone a very Happy Thanksgiving!
 
Registered: November 21, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I have a gas 2004R behind one of my Olds diesels with no problems in 30,000 miles. The transmission had 22,000 miles on it (since brand new) when I installed it.

According to the guys at the Olds 350 diesel page, the Victor gaskets are the best and the ARP bolts are the better way to go than the studs. With flat head surfaces and the ARP bolts, O-ringing shouldn't be neccessary.


And on the eigth day the LORD created the turbocharger
 
Location: Watertown, NY/Ocala, FL | Registered: August 14, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I have an 82 Chevy truck with a 6.2 and it came with a bad 700R4 trans. I used a trans out of a gas truck. You will need to use the diesel torque converter (they have a lower stall speed) and I had to use the throttle valve (kick down) cable from the diesel as it had a different travel length. My truck runs great with this setup, the only downfall is if I floor it sometimes it downshifts too much and will hit the governor. I think this is because a 350 gas engine is made to run at higher rpm's than our diesels. Good luck.
 
Location: New England | Registered: November 20, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Hi- Thanks for the replies! Got the car home,put a huge battery in it and it fired right up. The radiator is full of beautiful green antifreeze abd I din't see any bubbles. But then another time I fired it up, I did see some bubbles, and then later after that, none. So I'm not really sure what is going on there. There is a rattling/chattering noise that seems to be coming from the IP, which I assume is the flex ring. Got an old core IP, so going to open it up and see what is involved with changing the flex ring first, then go from there.Thanks again and Happy New Year to all!!
 
Registered: November 21, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Oh yeah, as usual I forgot several things-- I already got a pair of Victor gaskets, and also heard that o-ringing the block was not needed. Still undecided about bolts vs studs. From what I can gather, the main thing about bolts is that the heads can be removed in the car which they can't with studs-- at least the passenger side-- and that studs cost a lot more. I am not too concerned about either of those, so am leaning toward studs. EBay has about a dozen places selling ARP studs and none selling bolts. From what I've heard, people have had satisfactory luck with bolts, so even if studs are better, bolts are good enough. Thanks again Larry
 
Registered: November 21, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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