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completed in January '05. You'll find a photo album here.

over 14k miles now, and still running great. I am using coolant only as heat, and would like to add a vegtherm, a cockpit fuel temp gauge, and develop an automated shop filtration system for filtering grease before it goes in the vehicle - something I don't have to do, but would like to extend filter life.
 
Location: SC | Registered: 31 August 2004Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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WOW !!

Great Post .. I have researched and even ran a small amount of homemade BD in my 95 'Burb. I found it very time consuming and I dont like the waste/products needed to make it. So I have just started to research SVO as an option. In my case, Im in Miami so I don't have any cold water issues. And for the 3-4 times a year it gets "cold" Ill just drive my Jeep.

Anyway -- this looks like great info but as a NooB -- I have no idea what to do with it -- anyone know someone in South/Central Florida who has a similar Rig I can look at and get some Ideas from or where the best place to start on my 'burb project would be?

thhx in advance ...

pss -- what would you estimate the cost of this conversion was ?
 
Registered: 28 May 2004Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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How has your injection pump held out so far? I have the same rig and same year and have not had much luck with biodiesel in it. I have thought about an SVO option instead. Are you using WVO?
 
Registered: 07 November 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Greener Dreams: Nice writeup. I'm interested in doing a similar thing with a 96 suburban I may go look at later today. Were you able to find a tank that suited your need "off the shelf" or did you have to have one custom fabricated? Mind if I ask what the tank ended up costing? For the rest of the conversion I feel I have an understanding of the level of expense involved. But the tank is the kind of thing that might be a few hundred dollars, or it might be a lot more if you have to have it custom fabbed. Appreciate any info you can share on that. Thanks.

Charlie
 
Location: San Jose, CA | Registered: 08 October 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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The water is great fellas..jump in.

Miami, I agree with your assessment of biodiesel. WVO is the way to go.

Aaronzman, I have almost 25k on vegetable oil and have replaced one IP. With the proper precautions, IPs will last many tens of thousand of miles. Think of the fuel savings!

Tank is custom. I have a design that will work if you want to have one fabricated.

You can contact me at greener_dreams@yahoo.com if you have further questions.
 
Location: SC | Registered: 31 August 2004Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Am I to take it that you find replacing an IP in tens of thousands of miles OK?
 
Registered: 07 June 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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blah blah blah.

You just do the best you can and hope for the best results. Embracing alternative energy is the important part, and maybe you missed that. With the money saved on fuel, replacing the IP yourself really isn't that bad. Costs about 800.00. Now calculate the value of 20,000 miles of free fuel at 17 MPG. Don't forget about the reduced emmisions and domestic fuel dependency.
 
Location: SC | Registered: 31 August 2004Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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He said "many tens of thousands of miles" To me, many is 5+ at least, and probably 8-10. 80K-100K out of an IP would be OK with me.

How easy is the IP on the 6.5 to replace? Anyone do it themselves?


1985 Mercedes 300D, sold, Heat exchanger and injector line heaters, all single tank. 1997 E300D Benz using 50% diesel, 50% VO single tank
 
Location: Cocoa Beach FL | Registered: 12 September 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by B.K. Hosken:
He said "many tens of thousands of miles" To me, many is 5+ at least, and probably 8-10. 80K-100K out of an IP would be OK with me.

How easy is the IP on the 6.5 to replace? Anyone do it themselves?


How easy is it? That depends, What is your skill level? For me it was pretty easy, but then again, I've been around engines most of my life. And I have access to all the manuals and equipment (working in the engine developement labs at GM has it's advantages). You will need a Tech 2 to set the timing offset when the new pump is installed. I can email you the service manual section on replacing the IP. There is a special curved 15mm wrench you need, but you can bend up one pretty easily. Definately move the PMD to a heat sink out from under the hood. Mine is behind the grille. HTH Smile


Blessings. Joe 1999 Chevy Suburban 6.5L TD 1987 Mercedes 300TD and 1986 Chevy Cube van 6.2L.
WWW.RillaBioFuels.com
WWW.RillaBioFuels.com
 
Location: Sterling Hts. Michigan USA | Registered: 18 October 2001Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Well, to me, "easy" means you can do it on the side of the road with limited tools. I guess that's out. Joe, did I ask you about your conversion? I bought a heat sink to remote the PMD, I didn't like the little ones I saw on the diesel sites so I found one on Ebay (almost 10" square, fins 2" deep). I just need a remote cable now, it will probably go behind the bumper where that hole is. Do you have any extra 6.5 parts around? I am looking to get a cooling system upgrade to 2 thermostats and the new water pump, and probably change the timing chain while I'm in there.


1985 Mercedes 300D, sold, Heat exchanger and injector line heaters, all single tank. 1997 E300D Benz using 50% diesel, 50% VO single tank
 
Location: Cocoa Beach FL | Registered: 12 September 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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BK,
Yes, you asked me about my 'conversion'. I didn't. I run Biodiesel, so didn't modify my vehicle. Timing chain is an even bigger job than the IP. And since the IP needs to be removed to change the chain, you, again, will need the Tech 2 to set timing offset. Yeah, I used a large heat sink for my PMD, made the extension cable myself. The thermostat housing upgrade is a simple swap with later model year housings. You can buy the parts new from a dealer Eek or perhaps find them in a bone yard. The only spare parts I have are turbo, and PMD's. HTH Smile


Blessings. Joe 1999 Chevy Suburban 6.5L TD 1987 Mercedes 300TD and 1986 Chevy Cube van 6.2L.
WWW.RillaBioFuels.com
WWW.RillaBioFuels.com
 
Location: Sterling Hts. Michigan USA | Registered: 18 October 2001Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Well, my turbo may need replacing, but I haven't gotten to checking it out. I hope I don't have to buy a new PMD. Are you sure you have to remove the IP for the timing chain? I thought you just pull the water pump & accessories, then the IP gear off, and then the chain comes off, then reinstall.


1985 Mercedes 300D, sold, Heat exchanger and injector line heaters, all single tank. 1997 E300D Benz using 50% diesel, 50% VO single tank
 
Location: Cocoa Beach FL | Registered: 12 September 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Hmmm... Perhaps, I did both at the same time, maybe you can do the chain without removing the IP. I'll check into it. However, you still need a tech 2 (or equivalent) when done. Smile


Blessings. Joe 1999 Chevy Suburban 6.5L TD 1987 Mercedes 300TD and 1986 Chevy Cube van 6.2L.
WWW.RillaBioFuels.com
WWW.RillaBioFuels.com
 
Location: Sterling Hts. Michigan USA | Registered: 18 October 2001Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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I didn't use a Tech 2 FYI. Replaced IP twice due to my own carelessness. But it ran fine w/o the Tech 2. No side of the road job, tho. Maybe a couple of weekends.
 
Location: SC | Registered: 31 August 2004Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by Greener_dreams:
I didn't use a Tech 2 FYI. Replaced IP twice due to my own carelessness. But it ran fine w/o the Tech 2. No side of the road job, tho. Maybe a couple of weekends.


Is a "Tech 2" something to do with the scan tool?
 
Location: North Carolina | Registered: 01 December 2007Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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I have actually had to replace the IP (DS4) on a 6.5TD once in the field. Initially no Tech-2 scan tool was involved, just hand tools (wrenches, pliers, 1/2" drive socket set). I had done it in my shop before, so I knew the procedure. I scribed a straight line along the top of the IP attachment flange into the front cover. That way I could set the new pump to the same position. The engine ran fine after assembly and we made it off the mountain. Took me about 6 hours more or less. We ended up having the the technician at the dealership set the TDC offset, but it wasn't much out anyway.
 
Registered: 20 April 2009Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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