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6.5L Injection Pump Optical Sensor
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Autozone, pepboys,GM,, Not to hard to find. Are you sure you need one? you can try to run a tank of #2 thru it with about 2-3 times the amount of DieselKleen, or other additive thru it,, to see if you can clean it up.


Al Gore did NOT Invent the Internet----> He Invented Global Warming!
 
Location: Lake Odessa, Michigan | Registered: March 24, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I a lot of wrench time on the 6.5 and eirlier GM diesels. The optic sensor can give you stalls, rough running, and hard to start if: the fuel is not optically clear, totally free of bubbles or water droplets, and free of fuel coke dust that is so fine it gets past the filter. The good news is that they don't completely fail very often. They can be can resurected.

Most diesel shops don't know what usually causes them to stop working. Fuel coke dust or other fine junk that gets past the filter under 9 microns. It slowly fills the cavity behind the optic sensor transitor window slots. These slots are hard to see unless the sensor is cut in half so that you can see them straight on. (Search for picutes of the cut up sensor.)

Only if you are good with tools - Remove the injection pump cover, mark / scribe on both sides of the sensor block that is held on by a single large black torques screw. This will alow you to put it back with the original timing. Important that the scribe marks are usable. Using carb cleaner and a high pressure blow nozzel, repeatadly spray the slots and hit it with air - dozens of times. This wets the deposits and drives them out of the hidden cavity behind the tiny slots.

Gently put the sensor back in and be careful to fit the timing disc into the slot. There isn't any quide to make the assembly sit perpindiculoar to the disc - you have to carefully hold it in place using the old scribe marks and tighten. It will usually turn out of position and often the shaft will rotate under your pressure because it is part of the movable motorized advance mech. This is why the marks are so important. Keep trying until it sits square and within the scribes.

Purge the air out of the pump with the ignition key on and the bleed valve open. Restart the engine and hope your running.

If you did not throw away the old sensors, I could use a one for an on the road spare? Contact me at tm_jy@hotmail.com

John
 
Location: NC | Registered: August 07, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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If you did not throw away the old sensors, I could use a one for an on the road spare? Contact me at tm_jy@hotmail.com

I am so interested in old sensors, i will contact you, thanks!
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This message has been edited. Last edited by: wilson,
 
Registered: March 31, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I HAVE THE6.5 TURBO IN MY 1998 CHEV 1 TON 4 X 4 . I AM RUNNING 50 DIESEL / 50 WVO WHICH I RAN THRU MY CENTRFUGE. PROBLEM IS HARD STARTING , SEEMS 2 RUN GOOD ORTHER WISE, MAYBE A LITTLE SLOW @ LOW SPEEDS. SHIFTS NICE .. REAL PROBLEM STARTS HARD , EVEN IN GARAGE
 
Registered: March 28, 2016Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Bigguy, a 50/50 mix is just too high in viscosity for a 6.5 fuel system to handle. Next thing you'll find is that hot re-starts will be a problem, you'll have to douse the IP with cold water to get it started, then the IP will be done shortly after.

If you want to keep up with it and see what happens (nothing wrong with that approach, I've done it a lot!), get a fuel pressure gauge connected to your fuel line between the filter manager and the IP. It would be good to have 5 plus psi there at idle, 7-9 psi would be better but the stock lift pump won't provide that. If you have 0 or even negative fuel pressure you know you need a new lift pump. Hope this helps.


'97 GMC Suburban 2500 - 6.5 turbodiesel - 203,000 miles
2-Tank WVO conversion
 
Location: NH | Registered: August 24, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Hi, if 50 / 50 mix is 2 much, what would u recommend 75 diesel / 25% vo? will this cure the problem, i do live Wi & have plans of running this year round. ANYBODY ?
 
Registered: March 28, 2016Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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Sorry on last statement would 75 diesel / 25% VO work? ANYBODY ?
 
Registered: March 28, 2016Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Not sure you want to hear from me, maybe someone else will have a different opinion. I've run 5% wvo as an additive, more for lubricity than anything else, good for a 6.5. Other than that you need to set up a 2 tank system with heating so you can deliver the wvo warm to the IP. I just am of the opinion that a 6.5 won't live long with just blending wvo into diesel. Maybe you could get away with 25% in warmer weather, but definitely not in the cold.

Sorry to sound negative about this, but I've run several 6.5's with 2 tank systems, have been around probably 10 6.5 trucks between myself and a few friends, and that's where my experience leads me.


'97 GMC Suburban 2500 - 6.5 turbodiesel - 203,000 miles
2-Tank WVO conversion
 
Location: NH | Registered: August 24, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Dave is correct. If you don't live in a tropical country where it never gets cold enough to snow, then 10% VO is about max for most computerized engines. They don't like starting on more than 10% VO if it's cold, and burn dirty till they're hot causing harmful engine deposits.



 
Location: coldest N.America | Registered: May 03, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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