I have been driving my 94 4x4 dodge now on my own conversion for about 5000km.
I am fairly sure that I have just contaminated a half of a barrell of filtered SVO by pouring into the bag filter about a cup of old engine lube oil I had recently brought downstairs after an oil change to store until I could get to the oil recycle depot.
I am ready to dispode of the works (the svo)but I thought I would post this and see if anyone might have a reassuring comment (like it is ok).
So you have filtered lube oil and filtered WVO oil mixed in a barrel, intending to go into your heated VO system as fuel... I don't see a problem. Should burn fine.
I plan on running waste lube oil through my two tank VO system, as an occasional treat after each oil change as a matter of fact. I have centrifuge.. spin it, dump it in, and run it.
No big deal.
1987 Mercedes 300D - 2 tank VO
Not a problem, I regularly run a 50/50 blend of used lube oil and diesel through my 92 Dodge Cummins in warm weather, runs just fine. It is amazing how small amount of the black lube oil it takes to turn everything black but your cup of oil in a half barrel of veg will likely only darken everything slightly.
92 dodge cummins with over 260,000 miles. Running an unheated 50% diesel/50% WVO blend for about the last 75,000 miles when temps above 50 deg f, no modifications or heating except the addition of a throw-away in-line fuel filter (removed during cold weather).
As of 8-01-05 I have been testing a 75% WVO/15% gasahol (90% RUG/10% ethanol)/10% diesel blend. Works fine down to about 65 f then starts rough. Runs ok once engine warms up. Back to a 50/50 diesel blend sence 9-15-05, just to cool now. -- 11-01-05 Modified stock fuel tank internal fuel pickup to have I.D. of 3/8 inch, this eliminated cold start slow idle and bogg on acceleration. Now adding 1 ounce each of acetone and pure gum spirits of turpentine to each 5 gallons of any blend, seems to help keep the fats in solution to a lower temperature --Heated 2nd tank fuel system installed january 2010, now running on a heated blend of 90% veg/5% diesel/5% RUG (no acetone or turpentine, heat replaced these).
This is how i dispose of the oil after i filter it. I keep the percentage low to minimize smoke and it makes the exhaust stink.
2001 F350 7.3 DI purchased new by me and it is the first DI experimented with and talked about on this forum.
Updated 1/2011 Alternative Fuel User Since 2003-vo is always in my fuel. Only one fuel tank. GPI/CIM-TEK spin on filterhead and 10 micron filter. Superchip. Hutch and Harpoon mods 2010. Diesel inline filter between tank and Airtex E2236 fuel pump (rated to 110 psi).Fuel pressure gauge. HOH for fuel line heat from tank to 12v lift pump. Two 12v 36" heaters, one before add on filter and one before OEM filter.
Cool weather mixes updated 2010. 100% vo to 70°. 66% to 35°. 50% to 10°.
On my IDI Benz,I never run over 35%.Going pass that make your engine smell like it needs rings.I have never got wvo to mix with wmo.The motor oils will settle to bottom of tank.
126 diesels yahoo groups
83 SD straight exhaust 94 Cobra
Cold air,real cold.Cobra electric radiator fan,Monark nozzles,10 psi electric fuel pump.85 amp alternator 12" subs.23 psi boost, 30 micron filter,an 5 micron filter added
2 tank,wvo,boost guage ,line heaters,coolant heater Fattywagons customer. 99 S320 with 75 more hp.
I have only blended WMO with diesel in my truck but I did a couple 2-liter soda bottle tests with used veg, I added WMO to used veg and it seemed to stay blended for several months but this mix was coal black so I could not actually see through the oil well enough to be sure the WMO did not end up mostly on the bottom. I also tried blending NEW motor oil with used veg, the motor oil dropped to the bottom in only a couple days.
Other posts have cautioned against adding any diesel additives to blends using WMO, some of them cause the WMO to gel and drop to the bottom of the tank. I tried thinning WMO with both methanol and E85 ethanol, both caused the oil to gel, the methanol caused gelling almost instantly, the E85 gelled the next day.
Thanks Tim for the warning on methanol. I didn't know wvo would jell with methanol.
For those adding WMO to WVO, don't add SYNTHETIC WMO! The reason it's great for hot turbo's also makes it not want to burn. I've read a couple stories of furnaces getting ruined with SYN. WMO.
1-tank Elsbett VW TDI , 220,000 WVO miles.
and a '92 F-250 with only a FPHE
Clarification -- Used VEG oil does NOT gel when alcohol is added, WMO does. -BUT- Adding alcohol to veg has another problem, the veg can only hold a small amount of the alcohol in solution, just how much depends on the type of alcohol and the temp of the blend. Only about 8-10% of the alcohol (by volume) will stay blended in the veg oil, the remainder of the alcohol will float on top the veg. Even a tiny amount of straight alcohol can trash the injection pump due to not having any lubrication properties (blew a rod on a chainsaw burning E85 ethanol due to not adding more oil than with gasoline). Easy to test, pour a 50/50 blend into a small container and let it set.
Synthetic oil -- Just my opinion but from reading about how lube oil is made and specified I don't feel that there is a problem with what is called "synthetic" oil, I burn it all through the Cummins. From what I have read, synthetic motor oil is made up of the same molecules as cheaper oil except that it is made up of a very specific, and narrow, selection of molecule sizes rather than the much wider selection of molecule sizes that end up in simple distilled lube oil. Most synthetic oil is made from normal petroleum oil that has first been separated into it's individual sized molecules, then they only use specifically selected size molecules to make up the synthetic oil, this lets them control the characteristics of the oil much closer, this takes more time, energy, and crude oil to produce the synthetic version so it costs more. Some top end synthetic oil IS made by creating specific sized oil molecules from scratch by using the chemistry that makes up oil molecules (hydrogen and carbon, hydrocarbon, it all burns), the end result is still oil, just an oil that is made up of carefully selected synthesized molecules. The oil's additive packages are made up of various chemistry (may be as much as 40% of the volume of what is sold as lube oil) but these have to be burnable or they would cause problems in an engine due to some amount of lube oil always getting past the piston rings and ending up burning in the engines cylinders. BUT - I could be wrong, so far I have not had any problems. Please post details if anyone has had problems burning synthetic oil.
I suspect it is the multi-weight additives that cause WMO to gel when alcohol is added. The oil additives that allow the oil to be "multi-weight" are designed to get longer by unrolling and linking together as the oil gets hotter, this linking makes the oil thicker and is what keeps the oil from getting thinner than the specified amount when hot. It is the additive package chemistry that breaks down with use, the long "multi-weight" molecules get ground into shorter lengths over time as the oil gets pounded around in the bearings, and some of the lighter detergents evaporate away. I left the two WMO/alcohol blend test containers open to the air and after the alcohol evaporated the WMO was again liquid? It may be that alcohol has the same affect on these additives that heat does, don't know for sure, still reading.This message has been edited. Last edited by: Tim c cook,
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