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I have searched and searched and I realize that there are other threads on this topic, so before I am ousted please consider that I am looking for the most up-to-date information I can get my hands on. Of all the SVO conversion kits, and all the threads I can find on the topic, I am finding most of them to be out of date. Threads with relevant information date back to 2006, links to websites that don’t exist, prices way off, new and improved methods, etc.

I have gone though the websites that I can find, and have compared, to the best of my ability, the difference between types of kits and conversion methods. But, this comparison is moot because I really do not know what I am looking at.

I started off with an interest in golden fuel systems and still think I like this kit the most, however I do not like the whole 'the engine is the final heating element' idea (thinking about adding a flat plate heater). The price, listed at 2900 I felt was high, until I looked at the vegistroke by biofuels. Everywhere I look says that this is the best option, but 4k for a kit is out of the question, and that’s without the tank. To indicate the dates on the most recent treads I have found on this topic these systems were listed at 1200 and 2200 consecutively. Plantdrive is my third choice so far, but they do not offer a tank and I don’t care for their control system.

Aside from being a hippy saving the planet, and trying to screw the man I want to save a buck. I only drive 16k a year (on average), so cost saving would take me over a year to make one of these kits worth the cost. When did becoming a survivalist get so expensive? What are my other options?- I have a 30 mile commute to work. Is there somewhere someone has made a FREE guide to piece a system together that works well and is affordable?

Also, I also cannot find a definitive argument on SVO versus biodiesel. I have pretty much decided to go with SVO because of my situation, but I have read that I will likely only get 100k out of a converted system...not a good idea for a truck that will get a 500k on dino diesel. Why would I not just make b100? Aside from changing the lube every 3k what can I do to ensure the longevity of an svo system?

Sorry for the montage of questions, but any guidance will help. I am getting pretty discouraged and about to toss in the towel on the whole idea, so please be gentle.


95 F250 VEGISTROKE
 
Location: PINEBLUFF, NC | Registered: January 08, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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SVO people do not understand why biodiesel people waste all that time making bio and Biodiesel people are not sure why SVO people spend money to convert vehicles. I like SVO mostly becasue biodiesel is a lot of work. Nobody knows how long your truck is going to last on biodiesel or SVO it depends on to many factors,like where you live, how well you make your fuel,etc. Where did you read the 100k milesnumber and what made you seriously believe it? I do have to admit I get real sick of my greasecars right around 100k miles of drive time. I started in 2000, I have had a few...

As for conversions a 95 Ford I have never done, remind me of the set-up. Is that the one with the mechanical and electric fuel pump? As I recall the trick on those was placement of the fuel filters. I would not get the "engine as the final heat source kit" get a FPHE. I have a local welder that makes really nice tanks for $10 a gallon. They have welded in heat exchangers, fuel level gauges, caps and vents and custom make from my design.

I designed my 05 CDI system myself and it costs about $1300 for all the parts. That included the $500 I had to spend on an electric fuel pump. And I have 3 greasecar valves, a FPHE, Semi filter, and lots of money in fitting that do not need hose clamps.


Robert
In Fort Lauderdale running a 2006 Jeep Liberty CRD 2 veg tanks HOH 2 upgraded greasecar vavles 3/8 fuel line 5/8 heater line HOH Hose wrapped filter. Injector Line heater on the Common Rail. 2nd car 2005 Mercedes CDI, Raw Power fuel pump, 36 gallon veg tank in trunk coolant heated HOH, rubber hose wrapped fuel filter, FPHE, 3 greasecar valves, Common rail line heater.
 
Location: Ft Lauderdale, FL | Registered: June 01, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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SVO vs. Biodiesel:

If most of your driving is in the city or short trips of 10-15 miles or less, then biodiesel is the way to go. (And if you have multiple diesel vehicles)

If most of your driving is more than that, then SVO is the way to go.


Alvin
'01 F250 7.3 4x4 Lariat Crew
'95 Mercedes Benz E300 D
 
Location: Seattle | Registered: January 06, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Alternative to the $500 aluminum tank/senders, neck/cap is the poly boat tank for far less money. They come in all configurations and gal sizes. I like the poly because you can see the VO through the poly.
 
Registered: October 30, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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i think your talking about converting or bio in a 95 ford truck? my personal experiance was that it would be fun to just pump fuel and go but disposal of glycerin pushed me towards svo even after i built a procesor.they're both alot of work, but rewarding. just narrowing in on the 95 ford my personal opinion is a two tank svo system. i think it's a comon rail fuel system and you will need a fuel pump that is capeable of about 60 psi which are from $200 to $800,( you don't need two pumps, just in case you wreck one or want a pump for each fuel).a fuel tank that could be free- to who knows
heat exchanger -$100 on ebay, hoses and fitings and valves -$250 and about 20 hours to do a good job.
somebody on here will probably give you an exact parts list of what you need,but if not i bet with some work you can find all the parts you need at a fraction of the price of an off the shelf kit.
don't know much more bout the 95 or even if thats what your talking about but one tip about plumbing a fuel system would be to try to have a positive pressure system. meaning the more "sucking" your pumps are doing, the more chances of air in the parts that could shut the motor down. pushing the fuel causes a leaky mess but no engine shut down and an obvious place to fix. plumbing takes brains, don't be afraid to ask for advise, unless you were born with it, like me. good luck
 
Registered: October 01, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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oh yea ,everybody that dosn't burn veg oil ,svo or bio ,seems like they are looking for ways to condemned it and diesel mechanics arn't taking economics into consideration only being the best mechanic. so talk to alot of people and make up your own mind.
 
Registered: October 01, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I do not know how the 95 will do. If it is extremely similar to the 1999-2003 7.3 you will be ok. I suspect it is just dumb luck that the 99-03 runs so good on vo.
My reason for choosing vo over bio is that vo is safer.
I am in my 10th year.


David Norwood

2001 F350 7.3 DI purchased new by me and it is the first DI experimented with and talked about on this forum.

Updated 1/2011 Alternative Fuel User Since 2003-vo is always in my fuel. Only one fuel tank. GPI/CIM-TEK spin on filterhead and 10 micron filter. Superchip. Hutch and Harpoon mods 2010. Diesel inline filter between tank and Airtex E2236 fuel pump (rated to 110 psi).Fuel pressure gauge. HOH for fuel line heat from tank to 12v lift pump. Two 12v 36" heaters, one before add on filter and one before OEM filter.

Cool weather mixes updated 2010. 100% vo to 70°. 66% to 35°. 50% to 10°.
 
Location: Upstate South Carolina , USA | Registered: December 28, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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The vehicle conversion is the easy part. The other two parts: a few reliable WVO source(s) and cleaning. Getting the sources seems to be the hardest for some folks. The NUMEROUS cleaning systems for cleaning the WVO is the other part. If you are starting out from scratch, want to save time and effort, then consider the OPEN BOWL centrifuge. They are a little more expensive to purchase, in the TURN KEY version, $1500 and $600 for the DYI version. I've done the bag, baking soda, salt, settleing, and vacuum systems over the past seven yrs. Cleaned up the spills on the floor, throwing away many cubbies of "junk, water, a quite a few gals of WVO trying to drain the "Frybrid's WVO hot water still" and an electric bill to heat up 40 gals in the still. I purchased the open bowl from SimpleCentrifuge ($550) and the Baldor AC 1/3 hp motor ($218) and DYI the rest - 10 qt. aluminum sauces pot, a 9" Bunn cake pan for the inner bowl, two 1" aluminum tubes for the CF'd good oil and the other one for the junk. The CF oil was tested via Sandi Brea Water testing system. Raw WVO had 750 ppm of water as compared to the CF'd oil at 125F @ 1/2 gal per minute yielded 75 ppm of water. Good enough for me.
 
Registered: October 30, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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IF you can't do your own conversion, You're probably going to have trouble screwing something together to process your oil and not do a very good job of it.

Some people are hands on types and can muck around with veg and tinker to fix the problems and peculiarities. I think people that can't work out what they need for a conversion should take that as a heads up to stay away from using it all together.

Bio isn't much different. Yeah, you can buy a processor but same deal, If you can't build one you are probably going to have grief operating one.

Alternative fuels in any form is not a sport for the technically challenged.
 
Registered: July 30, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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