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Member |
Using engine coolant has BIG advantages:
- it will not overheat the oil - it is easy to do with copper pipe and heater hose - the engine temperature gauge can be used to indicate the temp of the SVO if enough copper is in the tank and a heated fuel line is used up to the solenoid valve. e-mail or call me ar.clark@bigpond.com; 0428 920 881 mob; 08 9497 8619 a/h Tony Clark |
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www.biofuels.ca
self-regulating heaters optimized for SVO and biodiesel. Supplement glycol, or use alone in warm climates. SVO systems, presses, vegoil lubricants, additives, also available. |
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Member |
Couldn't help noticing that my boat's gearbox has a water / oil oil cooler that uses the cold return from the skin tank to cool the gear oil & I was thinking that this would be ideal for heating veg oil.
It is designed with a large bore interior pipe for the engine cooling water and the outer oiul jacket is designed to cool flowing viscous oil (my gearbox uses regular petrol/gasoline engine oil). If this heater was fitted into the heater matrix circuit, warm-up times should be quick. I'm sure if this thing can easily cool my gearbox, it can heat SVO  http://www.chandlerydirect.com//acatalog/Chandlery_Direct_OIL_COOLERS_89.html |
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member 2008 Sponsor |
I use a hose on hose method in my Ford truck. At first I simply bundles 4 plastic pipes together...2 fuel/2 coolant...inside a foam isulating tube. The 14 feet from tank to engine/switch valve warmed the svo (from wvo) enough to run the 7.3 diesel quite well.
Warning:Use high temp plastic hose rated for the temp and pressure of at least 190F and 20 lbs. pressure. I later replaced all but the fuel return line with copper pipe after soldering the three lines together lengthwise for better heat transfer. Got another 20F rise. I also use a heated fuel pickup of my own design in the svo tank since where I live the svo is solid at ambient outside temperature for 1/3 of the year. The heated fuel pickup allows for a very quick switchover even in cold weather as it melts a small pocket in the solid wvo which is available for immediate use and as warmed wvo returns to the pocket it grows till the whole tank is warm svo. It also made installation a snap since I just drilled a 1 1/2" hole in the top of the tank and istalled the pickup with sheet metal screws and silicone gasket. I had the engine torn town and internal parts "benchmarked" and photographed prior to the conversion. After 20,000 I will agian have it torn down to determine if there are any problems with running svo in this way. So far 4,000 miles trouble free. (except for that one time I forgot to switch over to the diesel tank before shutting down fo the night, and an hour with a blow dryer under the hood got things freed up) Since the truck sucks down svo at the rate of 18 mpg I also designed a continous vacuum filter unit to remove the particles over 5 microns from the used fryer oil I get for free. It cost about $50US and is mainly built of easily salvaged materials. Because the filter tends to clog up every gallon or so I designed in a self purging cycle which reverses the clean oil flow and directs the resulting few cups of crud (off the filter surface) and recontaminated oil to a dregs tank and the majority of the clean oil to a large fuel holding tank. Since the unit produces 15 to 20 gallons of clean svo every 24hrs I can't use it all in my truck and am settng up a diesel genset to power and heat my home and shop selling the excess electricity back to the power company. The law in our state is that they MUST not only buy it but pay a premium price for it since it is considered a ernewable energy source. The resuting revenue will more than pay for a new genset before the original needs an overhaul. That is if svo is not harder on a diesel than diesel fuel. Time will tell. Dana Linscott |
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Could you provide a few more details on how your self purging filter works?
Thanks. |
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i saw a svo heater on this site some where? now i cant find it again.it had pictures and plans and everything.it used air to atomize the oil instead of an orfice.now im pissed.all weekend ive looked but cant find it .aaaaaahhhhhhhh!!!!!
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Danalinscott,
Have you worked out the interconnect with your net metering? Are you using a battery system & an inverter or a 240VAC system? I've had a lot of trouble finding information on phase matching for a 240VAC system, everything is set up for 12VDC & inverters. |
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Back to what I think was one of the original questions asked, I would council that you go with heating the oil with coolent. Every engine produces heat as a waste product. By using the waste heat from the engine to make the fuel ready to be burned, you are reclaiming (or at least reusing) some of the energy from the fuel that has already been burned.
Heating the fuel with electric heaters on the other hand, puts an additional load on the vehicles engine, causing it to use more fuel. Not as energy efficient, but if you're using recycled fuel (WVO) I don't see too much room to complain. A hefty amount of the power your engine produces is used by the components of the car (alternator, AC, power steering, etc.) and never makes it out of the engine bay. A european car manufacturer, I can't remember which, experimented with placing two turbos on the exhaust. The first pressurized the intake manifold, and the second acted as a turbine that ran the alternatir and AC pump. As I recall (but I may be wrong) it was more efficient, but was much more expensive. Every time you change the form of energy, there is a percentage of it lost. In terms of loss there is less lost from turning fuel into heat and using the heat than turning fuel into heat into reciprocal motion into rotary motion into electricity into heat (2 steps vs. 6). So, exactly how many naugas were killed to make that couch? |
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quote: Try searching in this forum for Babbington Burner, and then on Google.com. You are sure to discover it. >26 000 KM in a '90 Mazda 2 litre diesel on SVO with biodiesel start/purge. |
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If all ya wanted was something like the babbington, here it is.
So, exactly how many naugas were killed to make that couch? |
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That URL doesn't seem to work. I am really interested in this self-purging filtering system. I am currently using a diesel pump and cartridge filter and am having a hell of a time getting everything to work without making a mess and taking forever to filter as it gets colder out...
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I guess we ran the poor guy over his monthly transfer quota. His website wont come up through any other method for me either.
 So, exactly how many naugas were killed to make that couch? |
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quote: Here are a few more "hits" from GOOGLE www.babingtontechnology.com/Multifuelburners.htm www.backyardmetalcasting.com/oilburners1.html ww2.green-trust.org:8383/wvoburner/ journeytoforever.org/biodiesel_glycerin.html www.geocities.com/wastewatts/babington.html >26 000 KM in a '90 Mazda 2 litre diesel on SVO with biodiesel start/purge. |
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thank u so much for the links.they answered alot of ifs i had.should be able to post experiment results next week on svo heater.thanks again. c
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Just in case that was still a concern, I know that DanalinScott lives in michigan I believe, getting alot colder than anywhere in OZ, and I myself live in Canada, even colder up here.
Coolant heat exchange is more than plenty. Only troubles with the cold is trying to fill grease from outside bins. I have converted a cattle water trough de-icer to go directly into the grease bin, takes about ten minutes, but then is warm enough to pump out and filter. The motor, well no worries there. Got to minus 25 here, and my grease still burned no prob. I have gone beyond the copper coils though, since I figured I mid as well splurge for the little it costed. i spent around $100 to buy a top oil cooler. Gives out so much heat, i can not touch my fuel tank after 5 minutes of driving. It also works great with my tank, since i have breather valve on top, so if there is any water in my grease, it evapourates when i drive. have a look if you want, i have a small pic of the heat exchange on my website. If you want more details, just email me directly website www.greasegypsy.com |
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quote: I am looking at the both elec. and coolant heat exchanger method. I'm thinking about Elec. "BEFORE" start up to warm just enough fuel to run the vehicle till it is warm on its own. After that the Coolant heat exchanger takes over. Moderator PBB Unimogs & other Benzo's |
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I'm using hose in a hose (fuel line inside heater hose) with a transmission oil cooler inside the spare tank (same setup as Greasel.com) in my Mercedes 300D turbo. Veg oil filter is a VW diesel ('85 Golf, I think) metal canister type. Heated the filter by spiral wrapping with copper tubing and running the hot coolant through this as part of the circuit to the spare tank. At temps over 50F I can switch to WVO immediately after startup. During the winter at 32F and below I drove a mile or two first. WVO heating starts at the filter, then back to the tank, so WVO in the line is warmer than the supply in the tank immediately after startup. So far, so good (about 6,000 miles)local and highway driving. In Oz I'd skip the electric heater and just use coolant.
'84 300Dturbo, Diesel or WVO, 390,000 miles and counting |
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I had alot of emails to see the heat exchange I use, and i had done a web site re-design and forgot to load them.
the pictures of the tank and heat exchange are back up at http://www.greasegypsy.com and I have some photos of the filter socks I use as well. I am planning on selling them at cost, and will be updating that on my page soon. sorry took so long, real life stuff you know. |
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Hi Dana. I agree that hose-on-hose is a good choice of svo plumbing methods. Soldering tubing together sounds good too. I plan to do hose-on-hose plumbing on my first conversion just as you did on your first conversion way back in 2002. |
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