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The Spinner Centrifuge Plans: Review

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December 31, 2006, 08:38 PM
Fattywagonman
The Spinner Centrifuge Plans: Review
Been watching this thread since July.... Has anyone other than Buuuuuuuuuuuuud made one that works?


If it was more fun everyone would be doing it!
January 12, 2007, 11:12 PM
rkpatt
Anyone finshed their homebuilt CF yet ?


1994 F250 IDI 7.3 NA E4OD

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January 14, 2007, 10:57 AM
im6under
my dad has an operational unit now. pictures coming soon... actually he has two; one belt drive just like bud's plans show and the other a conglomeration of direct drive/bud's rotor mated inside of an ebay bought cup spinner. he removed the cross-bar mechanism and installed his own basket and rotor.

works extremely well inspite of my continual complaining he was going to kill himself...

Apparently 69 years of experience overides youthful criticism... Big Grin


Though your argument is very clever, I don't think it will lead to the results you desire. gandhi
January 14, 2007, 11:55 AM
fabricator
quote:
Originally posted by im6under:
my dad has an operational unit now. pictures coming soon... actually he has two; one belt drive just like bud's plans show and the other a conglomeration of direct drive/bud's rotor mated inside of an ebay bought cup spinner. he removed the cross-bar mechanism and installed his own basket and rotor.

works extremely well inspite of my continual complaining he was going to kill himself...

Apparently 69 years of experience overides youthful criticism... Big Grin


Any idea of through put per hour?
January 14, 2007, 05:43 PM
im6under
1 1/2 - 2 gallons per hour for clean oil. 3-5 gph didn't get all the garbage much less the water.


Though your argument is very clever, I don't think it will lead to the results you desire. gandhi
January 14, 2007, 05:56 PM
fabricator
I hope somebody comes up with a break through, because even 2gph is pretty dissapointing, for 10 gallons it would have to run for 5 hours not counting taking it apart to clean whenever that is necessary, so probably more like 7 or 8 hours with frequent checks necessary, this is not meant as a flame at anybodys efforts but just an obcervation.
January 14, 2007, 09:03 PM
drcga
If you would like to increase the flow rate then you would have to increase the G-force produced by the centrifuge. This also increases the danger of the centrifuge as the rotor experiences the same force as the oil.
January 14, 2007, 09:15 PM
fabricator
That's why I just dont see these things being a practical answer, they are slow, it remains to be seen how much water they actually remove, anything of a size to actually clean a lot of oil is big enough to be quite dangerous.
January 14, 2007, 09:37 PM
drcga
I just got my plans from Bud and have to say it is an interesting idea. The G-force produced by Bud's design (3400 rpm, 8.25 ID rotor) is about 1360xG. Simply by increasing the rpm to 4K will produce 1880xG (500xG more force). 5K rpm (maybe a little fast) will make 2935xG. If the rotor is constructed and balanced appropriately I would not expect a problem.
January 15, 2007, 01:47 AM
Buuuuud
fabricator,

It is not necessary to take anything apart to clean the centrifuge. The job can be done in a few seconds with a properly shaped scraping spoon, and then your back in operation.

This machine was not meant to be a large commerical type machine. It is meant for the DYI guys that want to do for thenselves. However it can be scaled up if done right. I know of one that is running at 7500 rpm's that, he claims, can process 30 or so gph, but it was done properly. Scaling up doesn't mean making it bigger.

drcga,

The "G" force and the force produced by the oil spinning in the rotor are the same BUT different. The "G" force on the rotors inside wall is the oil pressing against the inter wall and the oil pressure, on the oil, is like a hydraulic pressure without the the pressure you would have in a closed hydraulic system. This is really hard to explain and I don't think I have given a very good explaintion, but what can you expect from a dumb OLD machinist.

The rotor should not have to be balanced if it is machined properly. BTW, did you get the photo's of the rotor, off of the machine?

Thats the way it works for me, here in the West

Buuuuud
January 15, 2007, 08:27 AM
maddasher
Actually, No I did not get the photos of the rotor off of the machine.

So far every machine shop (2) I have talked to has said you do not want to spend that kind of money you need to find something that can be easily convert.

I have a friend that run grease. He work in a machine shop for a short period I gave him the plans. We will see how it goes.


Robert
In Fort Lauderdale running a 2006 Jeep Liberty CRD 2 veg tanks HOH 2 upgraded greasecar vavles 3/8 fuel line 5/8 heater line HOH Hose wrapped filter. Injector Line heater on the Common Rail. 2nd car 2005 Mercedes CDI, Raw Power fuel pump, 36 gallon veg tank in trunk coolant heated HOH, rubber hose wrapped fuel filter, FPHE, 3 greasecar valves, Common rail line heater.
January 15, 2007, 11:05 AM
Buuuuud
Maddasher,

The only thing that a machine shop would have to do is machine the rotor. The rest is so simple, a cave man could do it.

Send me your e-mail and your real info to get the rotor photo's.

Looks shady, from here in the West

Buuuuud
January 15, 2007, 01:22 PM
fredrico
I finished mine. havn't tested it yet. just been settin around on my bo-flex(sofa) watchin football all weekend. Will try it soon. All off the shelf, except cheated on one, a bearing I found in my little shop. Its a idler pully bearing. 3450 rpm and small roter, about 4" dia by 4"tall


drive free or die!
January 15, 2007, 03:26 PM
Buuuuud
fredrico,

I don't mean to rain on your parade, but I don't think you will be happy with your machine as the rotor is to small in diameter to generate enough "G's" to properly clean the oil. Your rpm's are great but with a 4" rotor you will only have 400 or 500 G's. With a little tuning maybe it can be fixed. I'll send you PM.

That's how I look at it, here in the West.

Buuuuud
January 15, 2007, 05:36 PM
Tom M
http://www.centrifuge.jp/cgi-bin/calc-e.cgi

G Fource Calculator, Just type in your dia/ Radius, and rpm
January 15, 2007, 06:12 PM
im6under
Dad's has been run up to 5,000 rpms but you can visually see the shaft starting to flex/oscilate/vibrate...

didn't look safe so he turned the speed back down. this was for the converted unit.

2 gallons per hour is slow... BUT...

you don't have to sit there and watch it. set a timer and leave.


Though your argument is very clever, I don't think it will lead to the results you desire. gandhi
January 15, 2007, 07:03 PM
rkpatt
im6under- What diameter is the rotor in the CF your dad built ? What is the approximate temperature of the oil he runs trough it - Thanks


1994 F250 IDI 7.3 NA E4OD

Remember that the forum search/"find" feature does not include the archives . Search the forum archives here-

http://www.biodieseldiscussion.com/forums/search.php
January 15, 2007, 08:20 PM
Coling
Hi Where can I find some plans of the centrifuge?

I dream of my own centrifuge!!!
January 15, 2007, 08:35 PM
im6under
roughly 8 1/2" diameter and the oil is 75-80 degrees.


Though your argument is very clever, I don't think it will lead to the results you desire. gandhi
January 15, 2007, 08:38 PM
im6under
Bud's centrifuge plans
quote:
You can order through PayPal or with credit card through PayPal and the account number is my e-mail which is posted on my profile. We also take checks money orders or cash, if you have picture ID. Yuk Yuk. US price = $27.50, Canada = $28.50. E-mail is spikee@lewiscounty.com

Snail mail

Bud Pitts
5162 Hwy. 508
Morton, Wash. 98356

Thanks for your interest.

Buuuuud



Though your argument is very clever, I don't think it will lead to the results you desire. gandhi