|
Go
![]() |
New
![]() |
Find
![]() |
Notify
![]() |
Tools
![]() |
Reply
![]() |
|
|
Member |
Thank you for experementing and putting lot of thought into this instead of just coming on here asking us to spoon feed you
anywayyy.. speaking of information..... the information your seeking, along with the folk who discuss it and etc. is in the forum dedicatd the subject of blending / solvent thinning WVO. Suggest you cut and paste this thread over to that forum. _________________________ If you believe you can't YOUR RIGHT; But equally so.... if you believe you can, YOUR RIGHT as well. |
|||
|
|
member |
I have always read that one can use half as much K-1 as D2 to get the same amount of thinning benefit.
I have never done viscosity tests myself in this regard or seen any empirical evidence, but I have taken the statement to be true. In my area I have to drive a long way to get a decent price on K-1. It is actually cheaper for me to buy Jet-A than K-1 from the local supplier. For me, the Jet-A is cheaper and fresher. 1981 Mercedes 300 SD 1999 F-350 Both on WVO single tank blend. No fuel system mods on the Ford. Mercedes has a Goldenrod water block and injector line heaters. |
|||
|
|
member |
I have seen a german study (I'm sorry, but I don't have the link), and Kerosine has a significantly lower gel point, and no added parafins (like diesel, or in Canada, summer diesel). It has been mentioned recently that stove oil is a cheaper form of kerosine, which may be available through home heating oil suppliers. I buy Kero at a gas staion that also sells diesel. There are a couple in my area.
1984 Volvo 240 Elsbett 1 tank/glow plugs/injector nozzles/FPHE/fuel filter heater system, block heater, ILH 20%Kero, 80%WVO winter blend |
|||
|
|
Member |
In a warm climate like Qld where it seldom if ever gets below freezing, the problems associated with using #2 diesel for thinning VO are much less likely to occur. One would just have to use more #2 to thin the mix to the same viscosity that stove oil, #1 ULSD, or kerosene would give.
--.- ..- . ... - .. --- -. / .- ..- - .... --- .-. .. - -.-- '89 Toyota 3.4L TDI + FPHE BD+ULSD+VO+JetB blends |
|||
|
|
Member |
Ah many thanks all - I'll leave it up to Admin whether to move this to the other section as I don't want to double-up this thread. Sorry for the mis-posting.
Valuable info' that it's normal to use 1/2 K1 as you would D2 - which feeds into the economics obviously. If I get this off the ground I'll seek out "home heating oil/stove oil" or AVTUR/Jet A or bulk K1 of course but for the moment a few dollars per litre just to experiment with is ok. Stale gas is an option but apparently it's very smelly - and maybe explosive? In case anyone is interested I'm attaching a pic' of my setup thus far. The big tank is a 240 l city council recycling bin (well, I AM recycling right?). This is based on John Galt's diagram except the supply tube doesn't need to be 2" AFAIK and leading it in from the side allows me to see the level at a glance. Also as someone pointed in another thread it might help to NOT stir up the sludge that collects in the bottom. There's no way to SEAL the thing so I can't have the top oil forced out when new oil is added, but I doubt having it run out through the overflow tube (yet-to-be-attached to the smaller drum) instead will upset the applecart (comments John?). There's pantyhose lining the collection drum you see on the shelf to the right and a rough garden-watering filter in-line just to keep out anything which gets around the pantyhose somehow. Again following JG's approach I'll thin (with K1 probably 10-15%) before doing the final filtering just to make things flow more easily. Now to find the right vehicle... WVO_Processing_Setup.jpg (43 KB, 24 downloads) |
|||
|

