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Injector line heaters
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Has anyone made the injector line heaters? Would like to put 6 on my Perkins 6-453 ci diesel. Need links, names of the wire and dia., heat resistant tape and/or anythings that would aide in a DYI project. Any help will be appreciated.
 
Registered: October 30, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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You can do a search for ILH or read through the 12v heater copy/paste below. It is based on ILH information so you can get much of the info you want from it.
(I have made improvements to my heaters since posting this years ago.)

12v electric heater

Supplies
You can get your supplies from Radio Shack(RS), Ace Hardware(AH), Tractor Supply Company(TSC), Auto Zone(AZ),and McMaster(M).
From RS i got a roll of 12 gauge insulated wire and a relay rated at 30amp.
From AH i got two 1/4" female npt and male 3/8" barbs, a pack of female wire ends, a pack of male wire ends, a pack of 3"wide and 1/2" thick fiberglass insulation.
From TSC i got a 30' package of 19 gauge stainless steel wire.
From AZ i got an inline fuse holder, a 15" straight rediator hose PN1315, a tube of heat resistant silicone, a 20" lenght of 3/8" metal brake line, two brass fittings -- female flare (with inverted male inside) to male npt threads ( They are in a metal container near the brake lines.)
From M i got a length of heat resistant sleeve pn 8819K41 , and a roll of silicone tape pn 7643A79.

**You can eliminate the TSC stop and get the stainless wire from AH, and the RS stop and get those from AZ but i like the RS relays better. Purchase from the stores of your choice.**

I already had hydraulic thread sealant. Use a thread sealant of your choice.

This will take several hours to complete, including the install, but is worth it.

Assembly

Make a sleeve 36" long with silicone at each end.
Coat the end with silicone, measure 36" and coat again (create a 2" wide band ). Allow this to dry at least 30 minutes. Cut at center of silicone.

Stainless wire in sleeve.
Fish the wire through the sleeve. Be sure to have an inch of wire exposed out each end of sleeve. Cut the wire.

Ends to stainless wire.
Tightly loop exposed wire and slide wire connector over wire, double crimp connector to wire. Do this to each end. ( Doing this to each connector creats 4 connection points for each end of the heater and greatly reduces the chances of connection failure.)

You now have a 12v heater.

The brake line.
Screw the (AZ) threaded brass fittings to the ends, these are flare so no need for sealant.
Add sealant to npt threads and screw (AH) barbed brass fittings to ends. Use wrenches and snug everything together. We will now call it a fuel line.

Preparing line for heater.
Mark a 15" area away from the ends. Cut two short lengths of silicone tape ( it adheres to itself more than to the metal at first ). Place the tape around the line creating a 2" wide band at each 15" mark keeping the mark at the center of each band.
This is safety insulation for the heater ends.


Heater to line.
Beginning at the center of a band, carefully coil/wrap the heater around the line.After several coils, use a piece of tape to hold the end of the heater in place.( Remember the 15" area? ).Continue coiling until you get 15" from end to end. Tape end in place.
Get the radiator hose and place it against the coiled heater to ensure the electrical ends go a little beyond the ends of the hose.Do not install the hose yet. Tape the entire heater from end to end . (Guess what, later that hose becomes the final heat shield).

Insulation for heater.
Coil/wrap the (AH) 3" fiberglass insulation with snug 2/3 overlaps. Secure with tape at ends. Take radiator hose( heat shield ) and carefully slide it over heater. Connectors must have access to connect power wires. Use tape to close ends of hose to line. This minimizes heat loss and gives a nice appearance.


The 12v power .
I used a (RS) 4 post relay and 12 gauge wire. Relay has posts 30, 85, 86, & 87.
Connect AZ 12 ga wire inline fuse holder(use 25 amp fuse)from 30 to a heavy 12v power source.
Connect 12 ga wire from 85 to a ground.
Connect 12 ga wire from 86 to a power source (turned on and off by the ignition) .
Connect 12 ga wire from 87 to one heater connector.
Connect 12 ga wire from the remaining heater connector to a ground.

This is a finished fuel line heater.

The heat shield gets warm but will not burn you.
Of course i changed the fuel line route while adding length to the fuel line.


David Norwood

2001 F350 7.3 DI purchased new by me and it is the first DI experimented with and talked about on this forum.

Updated 1/2011 Alternative Fuel User Since 2003-vo is always in my fuel. Only one fuel tank. GPI/CIM-TEK spin on filterhead and 10 micron filter. Superchip. Hutch and Harpoon mods 2010. Diesel inline filter between tank and Airtex E2236 fuel pump (rated to 110 psi).Fuel pressure gauge. HOH for fuel line heat from tank to 12v lift pump. Two 12v 36" heaters, one before add on filter and one before OEM filter.

Cool weather mixes updated 2010. 100% vo to 70°. 66% to 35°. 50% to 10°.
 
Location: Upstate South Carolina , USA | Registered: December 28, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Dave:
Thanks for your post. It is most helpful.
quote:
(I have made improvements to my heaters since posting this years ago.)
Amy updates and/or improvements?
 
Registered: October 30, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Has anyone tried to do injector line heaters using motorcycle hand warmers?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorc...&hash=item565884255b
 
Location: NY | Registered: December 10, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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What I did was remove the hard line, wrap it with a couple layers of this thin tape called Kapton..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/20mm-1...&hash=item2c802b2cbb

Then took a length of nichrome wire, maybe 30 AWG, CRIMPED a brass connection on each end of it with a 5 inch section of "appliance wire" (Home Depot, bulk) which is silicone insulated then wrapped with fiberglass and won't melt in an oven hence the name. And crimped a bullet connector on the other end of the appliance wire at each end.

I spiralled the nichrome around the hard line, about 1" span per wrap.
On 18" hard lines (if stretched out), that makes for about 2 AMP draw per injector, when on.

Over this assembly, I wrapped more Kapton, then fiberglass cut as long strip (not fiberglass tape, just fiberglass cloth), then silver foil tape like you use for duct work, then a silicone tape (no adhesive, just sticks to itself on contact).

These start heating the oil INSTANTLY when on. Like in 2 seconds of driving, I watch the temp at each injector start rising... I have a temp sensor on each line near injector right against hard line and not covered with any of the heating wraps.

Truth be told... I double spiralled the nichrome interspaced so I have 2 discrete heating elements per hard line. Independently switch, one, or the other, or both... total of 4 AMPS per line at full tilt. This easily shoots veggy past 100*C on a mild day, but is absolutely needed when it's -40*C in the winter here. Yes. that cold.


Regards,
Scott
1987 Mercedes 300D - 2 tank VO
 
Location: Edmonton | Registered: April 22, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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