Kewl!! Thanks!

Alrighty, then....

So, I got the screen in today's mail, and from eye-balling the pump it looks like it goes in the lower portion of the pump housing. It appears that this should come off by unscrewing the large bolt at the bottom of the housing.

But I've applied as much torque to that bolt as I think I dare without risking bustin' sumptin'... But it won't budge. Do I try harder, or am I crankin' on the wrong bolt??

If anyone else who's already replaced their screen can help me avoid destroying this thing, I'll appreciate it!

Thanks,
Drizzle

I second that, recieved the screen and put it in the box with the rest of the parts that I am collecting for the conversion. Guess it's not as easy as it looks.....one concern I am having is the pressure, wondering if this is gonna be to much for the 97 6.5. was gonna mount it back by the tank and hoping that by the time it reaches the IP the pressure will be good. Will have a fuel pressure guage right before the IP so I guess time will tell. I know Donniej thinks his IP let go because of too much pressure. I have seen any where from 2-7 psi to up to 20 psi for the 6.5 posted on different threads. The Walbro FRB-5 puts out 8-11 psi... should I be concerned or am I just to anal. just trying to get all my ducks in a row before I start, now that the weather is starting to break.
Thanx Jimmy

Drizzle any luck on changing out that screen?
Jimmy

Never mind bottom nut came right off, had to put some pressure on it.
Jimmy

Hey Jimmy -- yeah, I got it. I gave it one more try and it came loose. It took an amazing amount of torque, though!! After the bolt came off, the rest was easy...

Reviving an old thread here to report my findings. I'm not sure if this has been covered already, but here goes.

Well, my Walbro 6065 finally crapped out after approximately 20k miles. Luckily I had the FRB-5 that Mr Hosken so generously sent to me as part of the group purchase. I ordered the replacement 420 coarser screen filter, as recommended and installed it. BTW it arrived in less than 48 hours from Texas to Maryland. Now that's fast! I ordered it from Auto Performance Engineering.

After replacing the pump (which is now working fine), I opened up the old 6065 to find that it has what appears to be the exact same filter screen as the FRB-5. It looks like the stock filter screen vs the coarser one. It was pretty gunked up, which is what I suspect led to the ultimate death of my 6065. In retrospect, I did notice that the pump started clicking faster and faster over time (i.e. working harder and harder). I know that these pumps work on demand, but when first installed, at idle, it would click about 1-2 clicks per second. After a year or so, it started sounding more like a sewing machine. It all kinda makes sense.

Moral of the story, if you're using a Walbro 6065 or FRB-5, you might want to use the coarser screen and check/clean it periodically. More importantly if you are using the stock screen.

Looking to hear some feedback on the results of the Walbro. Does everyone like the pump? Is it sufficient for the 6.5? Any pics on the mounting of the pump? How were the pumps wired? Did anyone use a relay or just wire it to the ignition fuse?
A

I just swapped out my old 6065, not because it was failing, but because it was leaking. I put in a FRB-5 from our group purchase, but kept in the factory screen. The 6065 had NO screen in it...I guess I filter the VO well enough.

I've still not gotten around to installing mine -- too many other irons in the fire and projects on tap... (For example, replacing all steering linkage and injectors in the 'Burb, front and rear brake jobs plus replacing rear (air)struts in the wife's car, converting a recently acquired '96 Probe to run on electricity http://www.evalbum.com/1791 -- oh, and planting a 24-foot cabin cruiser in the back yard to serve as the coolest-playhouse-on-the-street for my kids...

I didn't get the Walbro because my pump (a 2nd stock-style pump dedicated to the WVO circuit) was failing, but just because it sounds more robust. I'll try to remember to check in with results/impressions once I finally get that far down my list of chores...

FWIW, my present lift-pump is wired behind the safeguards of the original fuse, relay, and OPS -- the Walbro will be wired the same way. When I flip the switch to Veggie, a relay diverts power from the Diesel (stock) lift-pump to the Veggie pump.

Looking forward to hearing others' results,
Drizzle

Drizzle,
Did you get the pump wires yet? I am looking to get a new LP and would like to use the FRB-5 instead of the Heath HO pump but I want to use the original safety feature also. let me know if you have made any head way.

A

Hey Waterboy...

Naw, I haven't gotten to it yet. In my defense, I HAVE gotten everything else on the list done except the Electric Car project -- which is STILL waiting for more funding... Honestly, I'll probably not get around to it till I have reason to suspect that the lift pump on it is failing....

Sorry!
Drizzle

Understood. So are you pretty satisfies with the LP from Heath?
A

Yeah, I have no complaints to date. I've had it on for quite a while now, and no problems.

As a caveat, I have three sources of heat to the oil (in addition to a probably not very effective HOH) before it gets to the LP, so there's nearly zero chance of it trying to pump cold sludge... I'd assume your setup is similar...

Best of luck!
Drizzle

I run mostly Bio except when under 45 degrees and then I start running a blend. Thanks for the feedback Drizzle.

A

Installed an FRB-5 in lieu of the frb13 hoping to get a few more PSI out of it for my 6.9l IDI - seems like I got 1 psi.

In any case mine is plumbed to pull through my 6 micron veggie filter. I'm thinking of just removing the screen altogether in an attempt to get more psi out of it. I assume you remove the bottom nut and the removal of the screen is self-explanatory?

Also I'd be interested in knowing how long the 5's have lasted you folks at this point, seems to be more than a year now.