I have 2 SV10-31 Hydraforce valves on my 1994 F250 . For the past 9-10 months , the WVO system has not been used as I never drove it enough to fully warm up . Anyway , I am in the process on needing the WVO system again so I am cleaning the tank , cleaning out the system , replacing lines . etc . I have notice that the Hydraforce valve that switches to fuel does not operate correct . I can't hear the plunger click but there is no flow . Should I try to disassemble the solenoid / plunger unit or return it to the local vendor where I purchased ( still under 5 year warranty but a pita to go there ( and then go back to pick it up if the ask me to leave it ) . - Thanks

This message has been edited. Last edited by: rkpatt,

When swapping systems from a VW to a MB I did not properly "flush" my hydraforce valves.

A few months of the hydraforce valves sitting on the shelf with the veggie "gunked" the Hydraforce all up.

Disassemble the hydraforce. Remove the plunger. You will see in the Plunger a lot of small holes that are now filled with dried veggie.

Soak the plunger in degreaser or other solvent to soften/lossen the dried veggie from plunger small holes.

Then pound the plunger on a peice of wood to dislodge the veggie from the hydraforce plinger. (not too hard)

This may take a few times, Reassemble the hydraforce and test.

I removed the plunger solenoid from the 3 port aluminum valve body . The holes look clear . Can I disassemble them further by removing the nut at the top of the solenoid ? - Thanks

http://www.hydraforce.com/Solenoid/Sol-pdf/1-368-1.pdf

This message has been edited. Last edited by: rkpatt,

I would blow out the valve with air pressure to be sure you clear the lines completely, disassemble and check it visually.

There is no question that the problem is in the spool assembly. I am just no sure how far I can/should go with disassembling it .

quote:

Originally posted by HoldOnTight:
I would blow out the valve with air pressure to be sure you clear the lines completely, disassemble and check it visually.

The best thing to soften up dried vege is the solvent used in paint stripper. This solvent is Dichloromethane, it usually also has about 10% methanol but that is just to jell the cellulosic gelling agent to make the paint stripper hang on a surface.

Lab suppliers will have it, just do not get it on other surfaces. If the valve has viton seals there should not be a problem. I am not sure how nitrile seals will react. Better to test to see if they swell before using on the spool of the valve.

Bio diesel is a good solvent for WVO. Might want to give it a try if you have access to some. It's also a good option to purge a system with if you think it may not be used for a while.

I was thinking about using PT Blaster but had some reservations about using it because it contains Toluene .
The valves were ordered with Viton seals . Can a completely disassemble them ( remove plunger from the tube (spool ) - How ?

- Thanks

quote:

Originally posted by GraemeW:
The best thing to soften up dried vege is the solvent used in paint stripper. This solvent is Dichloromethane, it usually also has about 10% methanol but that is just to jell the cellulosic gelling agent to make the paint stripper hang on a surface.

Lab suppliers will have it, just do not get it on other surfaces. If the valve has viton seals there should not be a problem. I am not sure how nitrile seals will react. Better to test to see if they swell before using on the spool of the valve.

A slightly different idea...

Not enough amps due to a poor electrical connection or a faulty ground would also result in a "click" but not move the plunger enough to allow flow?

A soaking with WD40 and slight pressure on the plunger with a thin screwdriver loosened it .