Does anyone here know of anything about SpinClean centrifuges? I need a CF and was going to buy a Dieselcraft but I heard of another line called SpinClean. Anyone know of the differences/similarities between these two units?

I'm still making progess on my CF, been running around FL looking at Mercedes WVO cantidates.

ok you guys, got one up and running yet?
Any feedback would be appreciated. Does it come with clear instructions and warnings, like not to go over "X psi"??

quote:

Originally posted by mltj74:
anyone think making a closed system and pull a vac on it to boil out the water while centrifuging would be worth it fixing to start making a 250 gallon set-up and i am willing to try a few ideas with it anyone have any input?

Theoretically IMHO you only want to evaporate water out AFTER Cfuging. Not durring or before. The water is heavy it Cfuges out easy taking with it anything that is smaller (Salts Sugars acids...) that disolved in the water. If you get any evaporation before and maybe even durring then the junk that was disolved in the water is now fored into the oil and may well be harder to Cfuge it out.

fine point there forgot about that it was a idea

No rush, buddy! Take your time. You don't want an oil slick in your garage.

I know that I already mentioned this, but Sunwizards big thread (it's an encyclopedia!) likely has much info to offer that will prevent mistakes. For example, these types of fluid driven CF units need a 3 way valve installed after the rotor so that when shutting down, the water and crud can be drained out from the rotor or else it jusr runs into the clean oil and re-contaminates it.

If you can't find a 2" to 3/8" bushing take a 2" plug drill and tap it for a 3/8 fitting. you should be abel to do that and still have extra time saved from makeing those two extra trips to the store.

for the hose after the pump i use a hot water heater pipe there 3/4 and dont even flex to the pressure and heat i had to attach 2 of them togther because there short but they work

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Shaun,

I have the screen on the wand that I suck from dumpsters, which is most of my VO.

And I have a 150 micron screen that fits on the top of the barrel that I pour through when I get VO in cubies.

Another good reason to have no filter inline with the CF, is what will happen if the filter plugs while its running and you are away being "very hands off" for 4 hours?

How many cleanings depends on how careful you want to be. Some are happy being less careful about water and particles, and some are extra fussy about it. One easy way to check if you have clean VO is to clean the rotor, then run again for another pass and see if it removes any more goo.

When people are first starting with a CF they will clean it more often than needed just to see how its working. Its just fun to see the goo. Then after they get a feel for the VO source and how long it takes, they can do less.

Thanks for the pics.

It would be a good idea to replace those galvanized (zinc coated ) pipe and fitting with black iron . Zinc will react with WVO.

I know that the parts list is basically the same as in Sunwizard's Dieselcraft thread . If you have a different version that your think that works better with this CF please etc, please post it .

Thanks

quote:

Originally posted by Ebacherville:
Pics added to my website:

My SVO picks

That looks like a nice setup Ebacherville, did you get the specs on your CF unit when it came? Can you post them or confirm that they are the same as the Dieselcraft in terms of gpm and pressure?

I think I'm about ready to start building mine, will be using the same motor/pump and CF. Any advice specific to those units?

Ideas for the heating: You could probably get an adjustable hotwater heater, strap it to the side of the heating element pipe and wrap insulation around it. Then maybe install a temp gauge inline just after the heating element. That way you can see what temp the oil is as it leaves the heater and goes to the CF which might allow you to switch the CF on sooner. Also the temp gauge will let you know what the actual heat is, which will help you adjust the thermostat... because the thermostat won't be accurately getting the true oil temp.

For example say you set the thermostat to 160 but due to heat loss to the thermostat the actual temperature of the oil in the line might be 180. With the temp sensor right there you'll have a good idea what thermostat setting will give you the actual temp you want.

Haven't built mine yet so that's just idea, but I think it should work.

Alan

Here's some pictures of the setup I am using. It's a working prototype and will get shrunk down and cleaned up to not look like a meth lab, eventually. Just ran it mobile for a 4000 mile trip, Arkansas to Maine and back and it worked like a champ. It's pretty hands-off, and clean. Just pump it straight in, run it a few hours, and open the transfer valve when it's done to send it to the main tank. Pump is a honda power steering pump ($15) and the motor's from the scrapyard ($3.50). About $200 bucks in the whole thing...Only drawback is the AC powerage. I would consider a DC option for the future. Like an isolated battery w/1500w inverter to keep it tight.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Shaun,

quote:

Originally posted by mgun:
Maybe they figured out the competition was 2x the price.

I don't know what CF you are comparing to, but the dieselcraft is the closest one, the forum member price is $219 shipped on this page. And the Spin Clean special was $170 shipped. That is no where near 2x. Too bad if they raised the price on the spin clean to $200 shipped since then its almost the same as the dieselcraft at $219 shipped.

Well, I bit the bullet and ordered a spin clean yesterday. Sun and Sam make a good argument for the DC, but I took the gamble. I guess it will be here next week. I have read all of this thread and 70 pages (so far) of the DC thread and have found a great deal of info. Thanks again to Sun and Sam.

asside the vane style pump this pump has the right caracteristic, no?

http://www.fluid-o-tech.com/files/Brass.pdf

i picked up a carbanotor kit from the local flee market and only found out later of the type of pump it had; all i looked at was the specs.

but now i see i can use the pump for a few batches and clean it thoroughly and be on the lookout for a better pump at a reasonable price as the occassion arises.

quote:

Originally posted by Muleears:
Attached is a pic of my proposed setup. Do you think it will work?

Muleears,

Looks like this won't work, as I see it you won't be able to regulate the proper pressure to the CF. Your control will be cutting off the flow to the bypass until you get to pressure, and you don't have a valve there. The valve you have to the CF will be more useful to the bypass. When fully opened all the flow will go through there since there is likely an interal valve in the base of the CF, if it is built like a DieselCraft. Thus, when you open the bypass valve your pressure should fall to zero and your CF will slow to a stop, and the internal valve will shut off the flow to the rotor and you can clean it.

Sam

quote:

Originally posted by SunWizard:
The special cheaper version of the spinclean that he has doesn't have a check valve in the base. I think that plumbing will work if operated properly.

Thank you Sun, I didn't see the pressure relief valve, I was thinking it was open flow. So he can regulate his pressure with valve A.

Sam

quote:

Originally posted by steinar:
Hey !
Why buy CF so expencive?

Steinar
/Sweden

Thanks for the info Steinar, A large chunk was courtesy of the lovely people at customs...

Thanks for the link though as it looks like they do suitable pumps which will make life easier

evangelos - That fitting looks like a pipe to flare fitting adapter .

This message has been edited. Last edited by: rkpatt,