Well, I bit the bullet and ordered a spin clean yesterday. Sun and Sam make a good argument for the DC, but I took the gamble. I guess it will be here next week. I have read all of this thread and 70 pages (so far) of the DC thread and have found a great deal of info. Thanks again to Sun and Sam.

Muleears-Which model did you order and what did it cost ( with shipping ? ). Thanks

I got the small one (FF25?). It cost 159+10 shipping. To get it at this price you have to take it without the input pressure valve, which I don't think we need anyway. Wish me luck...

Okay, so it looks like the DC/SC price comparison is basically $170 versus $220. The Spin Clean is $50 cheaper.

Performance comparisons?

quote:

Originally posted by Muleears:
Thanks again to Sun and Sam.

Hi Muleears, (got to love that nick)

SunWizard should get all the credit, I would have had a lot more screw-ups had I not been able to benefit from his experience.

I honestly know nothing about SpinClean, it could be perfect. All I can talk fairly about is the DieselCraft, and have nothing but good to say about the product and service. If the two products are equivalent it will be the service that will allow the DC to command a slightly higher price, we'll just have to let the market play out.

As more people explore, improving/building upon the current knowledge, we all benefit.

Sam

I think this pump would work, it says 2.0gpm but I don't know at what pressure. What kind of coupling would this pump require? Would this connect directly to the motor?

http://cgi.ebay.com/Haldex-High-Pressure-Hydraulic-Gear...QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

That could be made to work but be careful since it puts out over 2000psi, much more than you need. Its a 1/2" shaft so you could couple it directly using a lovejoy coupler to a 1725rpm motor. You will need to bypass a large amount of flow since its much bigger than needed.

quote:

Originally posted by SunWizard:
That could be made to work but be careful since it puts out over 2000psi, much more than you need. ....

Now that would make an awsome onboard system. Run 2 or 3 CF's off of one pump if the flow is enough. PSI surely is.

My Spin Clean arrived today and I need some input on my plumbing layout. The pic shows what I have done so far. I am missing the pressure relief valve (note I spelled relief correctly here!) and the hole for the cf discharge. I think I have taken the advice of this thread and the Dieselcraft thread to heart and laid out a system that should work. What do you all think?

pumplayout.JPG (56 Kb, 150 downloads)

Thats basically the same as mine except you need a heater, and inline is the best:



About the only difference is you couldn't do the simple ball valve to transfer when done since the spin clean doesn't have a check valve.

I have a band heater and insulation blanket on the bbl. I plan to use so I was going to heat the bbl. to 160* or so before starting. Wouldn't that work OK?

That will work but will make the process take a long time since you need 120F before you start. I like to dump the VO in and start processing right away. Especially if I am on the road.

Muleears - Please keep us updated w/pic too . - Thanks

i got my spin clean today but have not had the chance to really check the quality but i am sure its fine.

if a stationary setup is preferred would heating up the entire batch of oil to 160'sh make a difference?

i am sure this was answered somewhere but if the oil is filtered to 10micron or less can it make a difference?

or

is the filter on the end of the normally sold transfer pump good enough?

quote:

Originally posted by evangelos:
if a stationary setup is preferred would heating up the entire batch of oil to 160'sh make a difference?

Yes heating to 160F is best. Another advantage of an inline heater: you don't need to heat the entire barrel that hot. If its 140F in the barrel, its 160F after an inline heater.

quote:

i am sure this was answered somewhere but if the oil is filtered to 10micron or less can it make a difference?

Yes if it is filtered to 10 microns the CF isn't going to remove much particles. It still could be useful to dewater.

quote:

is the filter on the end of the normally sold transfer pump good enough?

If its the fill-rite pump its a 150 micron screen and yes thats enough, thats all I use. This is all covered in my summary on page 1 of the dieselcraft thread.

thanks for your patience sun

Well, I have the CF and most of the plumbing, now I need a pump and motor. I prefer to have the pump mounted on the motor as I don't wish to deal with the pulley setup. What kind of motor would the pump in the pic require? All the motors I see have a shaft, some with a groove for a key. I don't understand how a motor would attach to this pump?

Now for my stupid plumber question: How do you get all of your plumbing pieces to line up in the direction you need and still have them tight enough not to leak? For example, I can tighten an elbow until it is tight but is pointing 180 degrees from where I need it. What do I do now?

I am anxious to get this together any help is appreciated.

pump.jpg (5 Kb, 81 downloads)

Another pump/plumbing question! Would this pump: http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/p..._200329714_200329714

would this pump, according to its ratings, be able to maintain our needed 90+ psi @ 1GPM at 1750rpm? Or would I need to switch to a 3600 RPM motor to get the two gallon output to maintain the 90psi?

Sorry for all the questions, I just want to do this right. It is my intent to post all my results here so others don't make my mistakes.

quote:

Originally posted by Muleears:
Well, I have the CF and most of the plumbing, now I need a pump and motor. I prefer to have the pump mounted on the motor as I don't wish to deal with the pulley setup. What kind of motor would the pump in the pic require? All the motors I see have a shaft, some with a groove for a key. I don't understand how a motor would attach to this pump?

It would work with whatever motor fits the adapter you get. Most pumps have adapters to the motor, an extra cost item. For the coupler, search on lovejoy coupler.

quote:

Now for my stupid plumber question: How do you get all of your plumbing pieces to line up in the direction you need and still have them tight enough not to leak? For example, I can tighten an elbow until it is tight but is pointing 180 degrees from where I need it. What do I do now?

Use a bigger wrench to crank it tighter. Once its tight, there is usually 180 more if you go tighter.

quote:

Originally posted by Muleears:
Another pump/plumbing question! Would this pump: http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/p..._200329714_200329714

would this pump, according to its ratings, be able to maintain our needed 90+ psi @ 1GPM at 1750rpm? Or would I need to switch to a 3600 RPM motor to get the two gallon output to maintain the 90psi?

Theres not enough info there to answer that. It is way too much pressure at 3000. A gear pump would be a better choice such as all the ones linked in the dieselcraft thread.