I think the pipe on the left is the pipe with the heating element in it. It is the supply pipe for the cf.

That looks like a nice setup Ebacherville, did you get the specs on your CF unit when it came? Can you post them or confirm that they are the same as the Dieselcraft in terms of gpm and pressure?

I think I'm about ready to start building mine, will be using the same motor/pump and CF. Any advice specific to those units?

Ideas for the heating: You could probably get an adjustable hotwater heater, strap it to the side of the heating element pipe and wrap insulation around it. Then maybe install a temp gauge inline just after the heating element. That way you can see what temp the oil is as it leaves the heater and goes to the CF which might allow you to switch the CF on sooner. Also the temp gauge will let you know what the actual heat is, which will help you adjust the thermostat... because the thermostat won't be accurately getting the true oil temp.

For example say you set the thermostat to 160 but due to heat loss to the thermostat the actual temperature of the oil in the line might be 180. With the temp sensor right there you'll have a good idea what thermostat setting will give you the actual temp you want.

Haven't built mine yet so that's just idea, but I think it should work.

Alan

ebacherville,

have you ever measured the temp of the oil going through the heater lets say 5 min after start up with a starting temp of like 60 to 80f???

i was hoping to put something like yours/sunwizards apparatus in my rv. it was my understanding so far that no preheating of the whole entire oil batch is needed.

the tank i will be recirculating is 60 gal, so there would be substantial heat losses besides the time required to get it warm.

greets

reiner

Anyone using the next size up from the FF25 ?

Any parts lists suggestions for the SpinClean FF25 setup would be helpful .

Thanks

Well Poasting back here, to awnswe some questions..

My temp I go by the tank temp, not the fluid comming off the heater section, but oil comming out is warmer than the oil inthe tank and the heater if left on will heat the tank well above what we need , fron ambient temp oil i circulate till 160 then switch to the cf...

As for the model of the CF its the smallest one they have on the site does 60gph.. 1gpm..


I had a incedent, my screen prefilter got a hole and then dirt and crud got inthe cf setup, this then pluged the regulator in the pump up and put 200+ psi through the CF, it actually missshapped the bowl on the CF... so I had to put in in a vice to re shape it back to original, basically it flattened the dome of the bowl just a bit so the bottom lip of the bowl came up just enough to push out the gasket that seals it. I got PBC pipe adapter piece th was just about the size of the bole on the outside and then used a pipe nipple the size of the hole at the top and pressed the blow in a vise to just adjust the bowl dome a bit... liquid pressure is pretty amazing on what it can do... But no explosions or anything dangerous. these things are pretty safe.

SO note to others make sure your prefilter is good, I'm now using a water filter as my prefilter and it works great.. very cheap also, just fill my tank through this water filter witha 20 micron filter and all is good. i have not had any issues with the regulator on the pump any longer.. but a pressure relief before the cf may save you some hassle.

Yes the large vertical pipe is where the heating element is in .. and yes the galvanised needs to go.. First i want to perfect the entire unit so i can make a full list of all the parts i need in black iron as around here zinc coated is all i can git in many parts.. so ill have to travel or order online to get needed blackpipe.

I have been debating on a 2nd element for heating the oil quicker, now it takes abotu 2 hours from ambient temp to 160, when i start the CF up..

Ebachewrville -Thanks for the updates on your modifications and revised parst list

BTW, the link to your website doesn't seen to be working for me now . Could please also upload the photos to a hosting site www.photobucket.com or www.webshots.com etc and insert links here or upload direct to here . - Thanks

quote:

Originally posted by Ebacherville:
Pics added to my website:

My SVO picks

quote:

Originally posted by rkpatt:... or upload direct to here . - Thanks...

Right to here is best, especially for archive purposes.

BTW there is an album feature on this board that works rather well too.

Here's some pictures of the setup I am using. It's a working prototype and will get shrunk down and cleaned up to not look like a meth lab, eventually. Just ran it mobile for a 4000 mile trip, Arkansas to Maine and back and it worked like a champ. It's pretty hands-off, and clean. Just pump it straight in, run it a few hours, and open the transfer valve when it's done to send it to the main tank. Pump is a honda power steering pump ($15) and the motor's from the scrapyard ($3.50). About $200 bucks in the whole thing...Only drawback is the AC powerage. I would consider a DC option for the future. Like an isolated battery w/1500w inverter to keep it tight.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Shaun,

Guess you can only add one picture at a time,so...

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Shaun,

and. It's a Cummins 4BT in the truck.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Shaun,

Nice looking rig, good to hear its working out for you and to see pics of another working CF. Looks like you followed my design closely, do you have 2 washers with an o-ring to seal the water heater element? How thick a layer of goo do you scrape from the rotor usually? It would be interesting to see the rotor of that CF to see how it differs from the dieselcraft.

Thanks for posting the pictures . The setup shown looks great and I look forward to seeing your revised version .

On the photos - Upload only the most important ones here and use Photobucket too if you have lots ( I like to see lots of photos ) to save the host bandwidth costs .

[QUOTE]Originally posted by mgun:
Here's some pictures of the setup I am using. It's a working prototype and will get shrunk down and cleaned up to not look like a meth lab, eventually. --snip--

quote:

Originally posted by mgun:
Guess you can only add one picture at a time,so...

Using the [NEW] button you can select the "Photo Album" option. Post all your photos there. You can take comments there or use the {IMG} {/IMG} function* and place them into a post.

IMHO If you have more than one photo just use links so not to use up tons of bandwidth having photos opening automaticaly via IMG's instead of with a finger click link. Unless of course you donate money to pay for things here everytime you upload pictures HINT HINT.


Example:
{img}ipop_photo_address.con/photoname.jpc{/img}

but use "[]" these brackets instead of "{}" these

If you are using one tank to filter, how do you know there isn't sediment in the bottom of the bbl.? I assume the output just drops into the top of the tank and the pickup is at the bottom. Do you mix or set up a current of some sort to ensure none of the crud settles to the bottom away from your pickup?

On another issue, I have a heated bbl. (band heater w/insulating blanket), can I use this to heat the oil instead of the water heater elements? It is a 1000 watt heater and quickly heats 55gal. to 120*.

In response to muleears; there's some crud on the btm of the tank. Ideally, most gets trapped in the CF, that which doesn't will hopefully be caught by the post-CF 5m 'water' filter on the way to the main onboard tank. I put in a primary valve that, when opened, allows the flow of clean fuel to go from the CF unit to the filter, then tank. Of course, then there's another 5m absolute on route to the engine.
Also, i guess ideally, there wouldn't really be any 'crud' going in to begin with. Some suspended water, and bits of particulate tiny enough to get through the suction strainer on the pick up pump hose. One day soon, I may run the barrel dry and take a look.

Is the Spin Clean still available for about $160? I emailed the compay and David quoted $190. I asked if I could get it cheaper without the low pressure valve but haven't heard back yet.

How are you attaching the CF itself to the mounting board? Is there studs or tapped holes on the bottom that you can bolt to?

I will be ordering one this week and getting rid of my filters!

I got mine for 160 5-6 weeks ago. No tellin'. Maybe they figured out the competition was 2x the price.
I found a common round blackpipe flange, threaded for 1" NPT, with the exact bolt hole pattern as the CF base (It's got thru boltholes). Real easy. Screwed in a hose barb and run the output wherever you want.

quote:

Originally posted by mgun:
Maybe they figured out the competition was 2x the price.

I don't know what CF you are comparing to, but the dieselcraft is the closest one, the forum member price is $219 shipped on this page. And the Spin Clean special was $170 shipped. That is no where near 2x. Too bad if they raised the price on the spin clean to $200 shipped since then its almost the same as the dieselcraft at $219 shipped.

quote:

Originally posted by SunWizard:
I don't know what CF you are comparing to, but the dieselcraft is the closest one, the forum member price is $219 shipped on this page. And the Spin Clean special was $170 shipped. That is no where near 2x. Too bad if they raised the price on the spin clean to $200 shipped since then its almost the same as the dieselcraft at $219 shipped.

In addition, for what's it worth, (a lot to me), the service from DieselCraft is exceptional.

Sam