My two are running nice and quiet now after fitting both with custom machined bushings, I would NEVER spend $300 on one of these pieces of junk, if they want me to change my tune they will have to send me an actual properly built unit,they know my handle on this forum and they read it, until then, my opinion is as they come from the factory they are worthless garbage.
I also have a spinnerII 960 that is so quiet you cant hear it above the electric motor, it was $500 some bux but the obvious quality is well worth it.

quote:

Originally posted by fabricator:I also have a spinnerII 960 that is so quiet you cant hear it above the electric motor....

Are you running it with the bottom casting removed, or 'as is' complete with the float and air valve?

Thanks.

I removed the float and and all the guts from the bottom casting then cut the bottom off so the oil can fall out and I can still use the mounting holes in the bottom.

I like the idea of keeping the bottom casting if just for the isolation mounts.
I'm going to experiment first with just removing the float and air valve and letting the oil fall through the threaded hole.
As you know, in its 'normal' configuration that hole would have a fitting with a hose attached resulting in a considerable reduction in flow, hence the provision for air pressure to force things along a bit.
I'd like to see if that hole is big enough for the oil to flow without backing up before modifying the casting. (I have an aversion to making irreversible modifications to things if I don't have to. )
However, I don't want to re-invent the wheel, so did you try it out before chopping the bottom off?

Yep, the fitting hole was too small it would not allow enough oil to drop out and it backed up into the fuge causing it to stall, you could probably get by with just using a 1 or 1 1/2 inch hole saw.

Mac99
Just buy a air coupling. I tried several times to get mine to work without the air connected and it backedup every time. I even removed the base and let it freeflow. Still backed up. I could hear the rotor spin down after less than a minute. Added air and it works great. I have a Mod60SE. There are some pics on the forum but I don't remember the title. It is much cleaner using the air also. Mine is plombed into the 3/4 inch bung in the top of the drum. I replaced the PVC valve with a brass valve. Post found here: Scott's 'Fuge

Thanks guys. I'll probably go with the hole saw though, as I want an open flow back to the drum for better water removal.

Just thought I'd check in since I hadn't posted for awhile. I think I have almost all the bugs worked out. I have a small pulley on the motor, 2". I have a 6" pulley on the pump. At first I was breaking 1/8 pipe fittings regularly. I clamped everything togeather with a nylon washer to act as ashock absorber on the pipe where the heating element is. Haven't broken anything in weeks. I have the reliefe valve set to open at about 95 PSI and it closes at 80. I am a very happy camper. I was about to pull my hair out but with a little work everything is coming togeather. Since I've been using the CF, i haven't had to change the filter on my truck in weeks. I LOVE IT!!!

I have a question for anybody. When I clean the CF I first pour out the oil thats in the CF. This oil has what looks like small redish flakes that don't get deposited on the side of the CF. Then I clean out the rest of the CF.....
Anybody have any idea whet the flakes might be? I get them from the time I start filtering till there isn't anything left collecting in the CF.

Hmmmmm, no idea, possibly polymerized oil coming from somewhere?

I will add that I pulled some oil for a sample to see if the flakes were in the sample coming direct from the CF but that oil pulled directly from the CF is clean and clear.

probably something from inside your piping.....anyone know if the diescraft 20 is still backordered?It free falls from the bottom right? Looking at pump motor deals....anyone heard good stuff from grainger pumps/motors? Thanks

When I drained the CF tonight I squezed one of the flakes between my fingers and it desolved to nothing. Just a dark stain in the oil where it dropped.

Just curious if anyone know if the there are still problems with excessive clearance ( bad) bushings in the more recent batches of Spinclean and Filterfuges sold by IDP www.dieselproducts.com ?

This message has been edited. Last edited by: rkpatt,

Was it both models that had the problem? The 60 and the 25? I thought it was just the 60. I've had my 25 for about a year and it has been fine.

I have the 60 and it's very quite run at 100psi
I can not hear it
It works great

Thank's to 4x4Cove who did the shopping list and all of the research and work

In this tread
This is the list of part I used
Direct coupling
and perfect to spin the Model FF60 (120 usg/hr)
give perfect psi

( I used the spec of )
From Surplus Center

MOTOR PUMP
1 10-2367 1/2 HP 1725 RPM 115/230 94.95
1 9-6800 .40 cu in PARKER HYD PUM 89.99
DIRECT COUPLING KIT
1 1-2000 5/8 24B KTR COUPLING HAL 10.00
1 1-2008 5/8-9 TOOTH SPLINE 24B KLF 23.50
1 1-2011 INSERT FOR 24B SERIES KT 10.50
PUMP in/out "connector"
1 9-6901-12-12 SAE 12M x 3/4 NPTF 90 SW 5.95
1 9-6901-10-12 SAE 10M x 3/4 NPTF 90 SW 8.55
HOSE / Hydro conection
1 9-078-12 3/4" X 12" 3/4 NPTM X 3/SI HYD HOSE 10.90
1 933 2 BOLT PUMP MOUNT 34.95
GAUGE
2 21-1667 200 PSI 2.5 BM LF GAUGE 3.98
1 21-1246-C 100 PSI 2.5" LF LM GAUGE 16.95
1 21-1638-C 200 PSI 70 TO 320 F 3" LICATOR 18.95

Total $: 329.17

You can save $ on this list if you use of the shelves or DIY mount / connector and less GAUGE

It take too long to bring the oil to temperature
I'm using 2 Heat element 3500 W/240 V running on 120V
I have the electric motor/pum working off the same outlet
I don't want to blow the fuse
Will I see a big difference if I upgrade to 4000W or 4500W
any advise on speeding the process of heating the oil

Also what do you use to insulate the top of the barrel to minimize heat lost



Thank you
EL

Hi EL,
I don't know if you're still there or not but I had the same experience running off 120v but if you upgrade to 220v you won't believe the difference. And it's cheaper to run.

By the way, I have been using my FF-60 for some time now with good results and a very reasonable level of noise.
Michael