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Here is a short vid of my double setup running today, just remember I am NOT a videographer Confused
 
Location: West Michigan | Registered: 26 April 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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I think everyone should be made to take a look at your setup before they start construction, especially with regard to pipe sizing.

The only change I'd make would be to substitute a liquid filled gauge for a steadier pressure reading.

Nice job. Smile
 
Location: W Florida | Registered: 28 May 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Yeah I got one but I'm too lazy to change it out. Big Grin
 
Location: West Michigan | Registered: 26 April 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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[/quote]It doesn't take much wear to to reduce the performance of a pump which only just met requirements in the first place.
Have you been filtering out the big stuff first, or does everything go through the pump?[/QUOTE]

Its filtered down to 100 mic. then heated and settled for a week before it goes through the pump. About two months ago the pump did start to drip a drop about every 45 seconds. I bought a new seal but haven't installed it yet.

So you think the pump is worn enough to not be able to create the pressure it did previously? That would explain the problems with low pressure... Maybe I need to start looking for another pump or rebuild this one. Thanks for the information.


Muleears
Hampton Roads, VA USA
87 MB 300D Turbo, 340K mi. WVO Blend
98 E300 Turbodiesel 188K mi.
2 tanked Greasecar+FPHE
Very tolerant wife

 
Registered: 22 May 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by Muleears:So you think the pump is worn enough to not be able to create the pressure it did previously?......


That would be the logical conclusion if nothing else has changed.
That pump/motor is the correct spec for your CF, but that also assumes no restriction between the two.
If the pipework is too narrow or contains too many bends, that creates additional resistance that has to be overcome.

Finally, although your dripping seal may be a sign of wear (either in the shaft or its bearing), it could also be the result of overheating or the fact that it's made of Buna rather than Viton (the N991RS5 has the Viton seal as standard).
 
Location: W Florida | Registered: 28 May 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Hey Muleears, do you have a valve before your centrifuge? If not you may want to add one but if you do try closing that completely, start your pump with the bypass opened all the way. Slowly close your bypass and watch your guage. If you can almost close your bypass before reaching pressure it's your pump/motor, if you can only close about half way, there is too much leakage in your centrifuge. Could be it got over pressured and slightly expanded the bowl, could be the bushings are worn, could be a porous casting in the cf as a few others have had. HTH, Tigafila
 
Registered: 23 March 2007Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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MAC99Yes I did have problems with the motor overheating and stopping. I changed the pump pulley and no more problems. In fact I now have a fan blowing on the motor as a backup way to keep things cool I've gotten another pulley and as soon as I get the belt I'll go 1 more size bigger on the pump. The garden spigot? When I was adjusting the plumbing, the piece of pipe fell into the barrel of 120+ degrees oil and I didn't feeling like going after it. The spigot was the closest thing I could lay my hands on. When I get ready, I'll put the piece of pipe back on. The picture didn't show everything as it is. The pressure relief vaslve is pointed so when there is oil coming out it goes straight down into the barrel. Whoever changed my picture on the photobucket THANK YOU!!
 
Location: Hawkinsville, Ga. 31036 | Registered: 24 October 2001Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by tigafila:
Hey Muleears, do you have a valve before your centrifuge? If not you may want to add one but if you do try closing that completely, start your pump with the bypass opened all the way. Slowly close your bypass and watch your guage. If you can almost close your bypass before reaching pressure it's your pump/motor, if you can only close about half way, there is too much leakage in your centrifuge. Could be it got over pressured and slightly expanded the bowl, could be the bushings are worn, could be a porous casting in the cf as a few others have had. HTH, Tigafila


Yes, I do have a valve before the CF. This is a good idea I'll give it a try. It will have to wait a week or two as I am finished with the batch I was working on.

I am currently pricing a rebuild kit and/or a different pump. I like the close coupled setup and I already have the adapter and coupling. I guess I need a pump that puts out two+ gallons to be safe? Is three too many?


Muleears
Hampton Roads, VA USA
87 MB 300D Turbo, 340K mi. WVO Blend
98 E300 Turbodiesel 188K mi.
2 tanked Greasecar+FPHE
Very tolerant wife

 
Registered: 22 May 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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This question is for everybody and anybody. How do you know when the oil has been filtered enough? Till the centrifuge doesn't have anything left in the cap after running it for many hours? Or???????
 
Location: Hawkinsville, Ga. 31036 | Registered: 24 October 2001Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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I go till the hot pan test shows no bubbles, by then it is clean and dry enough for me.
 
Location: West Michigan | Registered: 26 April 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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If the hot pan test shows no water to begin with, then what? I have run the CF for hours and for up to a week, not continusly, but continue to get smaller amounts of superfine almost like dust collecting inside the CF. There is less each time but it continues to collect in the CF. Is the oil coming out of the CF clean? I have collected oil coming directly out of the CF and after letting it sit and letting the bubbles go away it looks clean. Even oil I ran thru a filter I used to use came out with fine residue.
 
Location: Hawkinsville, Ga. 31036 | Registered: 24 October 2001Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Are you running SVO or making bio?
 
Location: West Michigan | Registered: 26 April 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by dyoungen: Is the oil coming out of the CF clean?......


It rather depends on your definition of 'clean'.
You can keep circulating through the CF almost indefinitely and still see traces of particulate matter if you examine the bowl residue with a microscope.
The CFs referred to here will remove particles down to less than a micron without too much trouble, then given time and a very low viscosity will go even lower than that.
However, exactly how low will involve some experimentation and paying for lab analysis.

If your definition is 'clean enough to put in my tank' it might be the same as mine, which is 'water free and as low in particulates as pump diesel'.
However, I'm sure others will have different but equally valid definitions. Smile
 
Location: W Florida | Registered: 28 May 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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I'm doing SVO. I did biodieseo 2000-2002 but converted to svo. Most of my oil I know where it comes from. I haven't done any dumpsters in over 6 months.
 
Location: Hawkinsville, Ga. 31036 | Registered: 24 October 2001Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Hey fabricator,

Thanks for posting the video - kinda cool to watch a system actually at work.

What's the reason for the inverted "V" directly below each of the CF's? Is it just to prevent splashing, or is there some other reason that I don't understand? I haven't started with the CF yet, but figured I'd ask you what the use of this was.

Thanks,
-Scott


"There are no stupid questions, but there are a LOT of inquisitive idiots..."
Pictures of building my processor
 
Location: Louisville, KY | Registered: 31 January 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Yep just a splash baffle.
 
Location: West Michigan | Registered: 26 April 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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so I am in the market for a centrifuge- is anyone aware of the current prices on the spinclean?

I see DC's are up to $300!! now, and that is a bit too steep for my taste....


Be the change you hope to find in this world.-Gandhi

 
Location: location, location... | Registered: 04 November 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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quote:
st shows no water to begin with, then what? I have run the CF for hours and for up to a week, not continusly, but continue to get smaller amounts of superfine almost like dust collecting inside the CF.


You need to stop Smile That dust is probably dust that settles in the open exposed surface of your tank/funnel. Unless you have a dust-free area. What I would recommend would be to bolt the CF to a final clean barrel which is a closed top, the CF could go on the 2" bung. This would guarantee you're not getting dust landing in your oil.

Of course I would not be concerned about this. As Sunwizard would say, after 4 passes at operational temp (120F, In My Opinion), you're better off putting the oil through a 1 micron absolute filter.

mobetta: look at the CFs for sale at centralvalleybiodiesel.com. I'm a recent customer. I'm totally satisfied. I even bought a gear pump and AC motor from the guy. Currently I have it working very effectively on a hot water heater which thermosiphons to a FPHE. I pump the oil out of the oil barrel with a wand, through the pump, through the FPHE, and into the CF on top of a custom-made funnel which is screwed into the 3/4" bung on the oil barrel. If I tip the barrel a little (put one side on a 4x4) then I can suck from the lowest point. This is nice because the hot water heater is only about 2 feet tall and I can cart it around on a dolly to my different oil barrels that I've screened out and just clean them where they sit. Then I can seal the bungs and leave them there! No heavy lifting or transfer pumps needed. I'll post up photos and pics later.


Unheated upflow system: Initial batch in progress
1993 GMC Sierra K2500 6.5L mechanically injected (yay no PMD) w/ 74 gallon aux tank + homebuilt veg kit NOT YET INSTALLED (because it's 0F outside)
 
Location: Pembine, WI | Registered: 26 December 2007Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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If you are trying to dewater, a closed barrel is counter productive, there is nowhere for the water to go.
 
Location: West Michigan | Registered: 26 April 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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So any more news on how these ff60's are performing. new batches? I ordered a 60 about a month ago after reading the first half of this thread (mostly positive). flyboyd was having great results.
BUT Now having finished reading the thread I am reconsidering my choice especially @ $299. the second half of the Thread was just a nightmare. This quality control issue is a big bummer. Does anyone with experince with these ff60's still have anything positive to say about them?


I want to get off grid!

1996 Ram 2500 converted March 2008- 2 tank (105 gal transfer tank) homemade system. 170k miles 2k miles on veg so far.
 
Location: Tahlequah, OK | Registered: 28 May 2007Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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