|
Go
|
New
|
Find
|
Notify
|
Tools
|
Reply
|
|
|
Member |
Thank you! The valve came with no instructions. I stupidly assumed that the adjustment was on the end cap. I feel less than smart....
|
|||
|
|
Member |
I haven't been on the forum. Sorry to hear about your problems. The Lowes valve is preset to 75 psi. Maybe yours was screwed with by someone before you bought it?. Where exactly did your leak occur? Did the hose rupture or did it leak at the clamp? I use a stainless braided teflon smooth bore hose with JIC swivel fittings (from McMaster - good up to around 2000 psi) between pump and CF and most of my plumbing is inside the drum so I feel comfortable leaving it running unattended.
|
|||
|
|
Member |
Make sure the end cap does not come off because oil comes out of there when pump is running. Make sure you don't drop the cap in a full drum of oil
 because it is brass and a magnet won't work.
|
|||
|
|
Member |
The fuel injection hose between the pump and the piece of black pipe where the heater element is. To say I am GLAD I wasn't using regular hose is a GREAT BIG understatement. The leak was right before the hose clamp. Also the oil flow stopped just after I reloaded the barrel so I drained it this afternoon to figure out what happened. I don't know where but somwhere a piece of paper got into the oil and stopped the intake. This has not been a good week! I adjusted the presure relief valve and it is openning about 80/90 psi. Perfect!!
|
|||
|
|
Member |
CANOLAFUNOLA: When you're running your centrifuge, is there any oil coming out of the bypass? I'm wondering if I'm still running to much pressure. I'm warming up the oil till it gets up to the 120 degree range then slowly closing the bypass so the oil goes thru the CF. When I get the pressure up to 80 psi I stop closing the bypass and leave it run. Usually after running for a while the pressure runs up to around 100 psi then I bleed off the presure till it drops back to 80 psi. The pressure relief valve I bought from Lowes works great although it holds the pressure till it gets to about 100 psi. I found the same valve at a local hardware store for $10.00. Guess I'll adjust the pressure back down some more. I'm going to try and see if I can post a picture of my centrifuge in action and show the amount of oil going out the bypass while the pressure is at 80+ psi. I'm not to sure about "photobucket" but here goes! [URL=http://s302.photobucket.com/albums/nn107/dyoungen/]
|
|||
|
|
member 2009 Sponsor |
I've got a problem with my spinclean FF25 or another part of my system. I wanted you guys to verify my conclusions.
My setup had run happily for several months at 98-100 PSI. I suppose I should describe my rig. FF25 mounted on a 2X10 across the top of a 55 gal. steel bbl. Also mounted on the board are my motor, a GE 1/3 hp. 1750 rpm carbonator that was new when I started this, close coupled is an oberdorfer 991R gear pump, Rated at 1.2 gpm. at 100psi. Oil is heated to @150*F by a band heater around the bottom of the bbl. As I said, this worked great for the last 8 months. Recently I haven't been able to build up to 100psi anymore, only around 80, even with the bypass closed. My conclusions are as follows: 1. The O ring inside the CF is not sealing and allowing the pressure to escape. 2. My pump/motor combo is not putting out what it used to. 3. My gauge is broken. 4. One of the jets has fallen out. I have not been able to verify any of the above as the problem. The only real change I noticed since it has been acting up is that it is much quieter. Used to sound like an airplane, now I can barely hear it over the pump and motor. Give me some advice!!! Muleears Hampton Roads, VA USA 87 MB 300D Turbo, 348K mi. WVO Blend 98 E300 Turbodiesel 200K mi. 2 tanked Greasecar+FPHE Very tolerant wife |
|||
|
|
Member |
The function of the relief valve is as a safety device to prevent over-pressurization of the system. They normally come set to 75psi but are adjustable, and the 100psi you have is a good set point for your setup. The CF pressure should be controlled by the bypass ball-valve, which you are doing. Under normal circumstances the relief valve should never trigger. You should keep manually adjusting the bypass until the system stabilizes at 80-90psi., at which time it can then run on its own with less attention. I adjusted the link to show your pic. What purpose does the garden hose spigot serve? Why not have the the bypass valve horizontal instead of pointing into the air, then discharging straight down into the barrel through the black iron 90 that's already attached to it? It'll be much easier to align, and quieter, if you connect to the CF with a short hose. No negative criticism intended. |
|||
|
|
Member |
Your pump, being on top of the barrel, is not lifting as well as when it was new. It is sucking air and that is the reason you are not developing rated pressure. Unlike oil, air is compressible. To veriy this, use a clear suction hose (input hose). If you see lots of bubbles there's your problem. You can move the pump to sit near the bottom of the barrel and that should help.
|
|||
|
|
Member |
Yep, my bypass is always squirting some oil when the CF is running (ball valve fully closed). I use the bypass to do the regulation, not the ball valve, which is too hair trigger to regulate well. Maybe a gate valve will be better?
|
|||
|
|
Member |
The advice to lower the pump is good as it won't then have to work so hard, especially on start up if you don't have a foot valve. However, if it worked ok before then something has changed. Your list, apart from #2, should be easy to verify, so: 1: Swap in your spare 'O' ring (you do keep a spare?). 2: A possibility. Are you referring to the relief valve on the pump or in your pipework being fully closed? Can you get 100psi on cold oil, and if so at what volume? 3: Another possibility. Swap in a cheap gauge, they're only $8.00. 4: Have a look and see.  It's also possible your pipework might be restrictive and the pump might have been at it's limit trying to keep up when new. Do you have a pic? |
|||
|
|
Member |
MAC99: I thought the same thing on my CF as per your no.1. I found a slighty thicker "O" ring. It was slighty bigger diameter wise so I cut and glued it. Working fine now!! In fact it's working better than ever. As far as the pump/motor combo, what about changing the pulley size so the motor doesn't have to work so hard?
|
|||
|
|
member 2009 Sponsor |
I have swapped the O ring with the factory spare I had, no change.
Both jets are in place. My bbl. is nearly full so the pump is only lifting about 6 inches or less. The pump was new when I started and it has only pumped oil. I hope it hasn't worn that much, that fast. I'll see if I can find a gauge to swap with today. If everything but the gauge is ok, and I close my my bypass, I should have a couple hundred PSI, which would blow my relief valve, which isn't happening. Just to be clear, when I said it has run fine for 8 months I didn't mean continuously. I usually spin every other weekend for 8-12 hours. Thanks for the input guys. Just out of curiosity, what psi do you all run at? I normally run as close to 100 as I can. Muleears Hampton Roads, VA USA 87 MB 300D Turbo, 348K mi. WVO Blend 98 E300 Turbodiesel 200K mi. 2 tanked Greasecar+FPHE Very tolerant wife |
|||
|
|
Member |
I've got a new problem, need some help. I am spinning finished biodiesel with an FF60LE. I am using the close coupled grainger pump described earlier in this thread.
My last 2 batches, the centrifuge has been passing a ton of very fine bubbles, almost looks like a mayonaise emulsion. So much to the poiint where the BD in my barrel will foam and overflow if it isn't minitored and shut off. I did 10-15 batches fine, no issues before this started happening. I don't think it is my feedstock or method of methanol removal or anything like that. Have any of you seen very, very fine bubbles that take 10 minutes to clear if sampled in a jar? Pump is gravity fed, under the cone barrel/drum |
|||
|
|
Member |
jon h: After i run the oil for a day or 2, not continuisly and I'm doing SVO not Biodiesel, I pull a sample of oil from the drain under the centrifuge into an old glass coffee pot. Yes there are lots of bubbles but not enough to call foam. After an hour or so the bubbles are gone and the oil is clear. At first I thought the CF wasn't doing the job till I found out they were bubbles and not trash.
muleears: I'm running between 80 and 100 psi. Mainly 80/90 but somtimes it does hit 100. I'll adjust the pressure relief valve down the next time if I think about it. |
|||
|
|
member 2009 Sponsor |
Update: I let the oil cool some overnight, down to 120*F. Now it will hold 100psi no problem. Apparently the thicker oil is allowing it to build enough pressure, but at 170*F it is too thin. This wasn't a problem previously. I will slowly heat the oil today to see where it cannot maintain 100psi. Any more input is appreciated. Muleears Hampton Roads, VA USA 87 MB 300D Turbo, 348K mi. WVO Blend 98 E300 Turbodiesel 200K mi. 2 tanked Greasecar+FPHE Very tolerant wife |
|||
|
|
Member |
You said earlier your pump and motor is close coupled and mounted to a board on top of the barrel. If the pump is lifting 6" or less then you are drawing from the top of the barrel? You do know that you should draw from the bottom of the barrel? In which case you have to lift more than 6 inches. How much slop do you have in the CF bearings? Excessive clearance in the CF (or in the pump) could cause pressure drops. |
|||
|
|
Member |
Or it could be your pump is marginal to start with? |
|||
|
|
Member |
Was it you who had the motor that was overheating and cutting out? If so you should absolutely change the pulley sizes. If the motor is rated at say 1750rpm, then that's the speed it should be running at under load. If the load causes it to run slower then it will overheat and its life will be shortened. The same applies to a pump. If you try to exceed its specs it either leak or die early. However, there's nothing wrong with slowing a pump down if that will bring it into line with the pressure and volume you need. |
|||
|
|
Member |
Your pump motor combo (N991R/1/3hp) should be able to pump 70F water at 100psi/1.5gpm straight from the pump. Additionally, recommended temps are 32-140F, and these are the recommendations for suction lift (which are important): "As a general rule, the suction lift should be kept at an absolute minimum by placing the pump as close to the liquid source as possible. A gear pump in new condition can lift 20 feet of water in the suction line. A foot valve (preferably with built in strainer) is recommended at the beginning of the suction line. For a first start-up, the pump should be primed to avoid dry running. Minimum size of the suction pipe is the size of the pump inlet port. For longer suction lines (over 3 feet) or for viscous liquids, the pipe should be at least one size or two sizes larger than the pump inlet port." It doesn't take much wear to to reduce the performance of a pump which only just met requirements in the first place. Have you been filtering out the big stuff first, or does everything go through the pump? |
|||
|
| Powered by Eve Community | Page 1 ... 36 37 38 39 40 41 |
 | Please Wait. Your request is being processed... |
|
© Maui Green Energy 2000 - 2009