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Have you seen this diagram from the Dieselcraft thread?

Registered: 08 May 2005

Ignored post by canolafunola posted

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Posted

quote:
Originally posted by dyoungen:
I have a fitting welded into the side of the barrel. From there I have a piece of black pipe that ends in a "T" that the water heater element screws into. From there the third opening in the "T" goes into a fitting that drops the size to a 3/8 barb fitting the line feeds into the pump.

A picture is worth a thousand words. Do you have a pic?

Registered: 08 May 2005

Ignored post by canolafunola posted

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I've seen the diagram but didn't know if placing the heater before the pump or after the pump made a diferance. I have never posted a picture here but tomorrow I'll try.

Location: Hawkinsville, Ga. 31036 | Registered: 24 October 2001

Ignored post by dyoungen posted

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Posted

quote:
Originally posted by dyoungen:
I've seen the diagram but didn't know if placing the heater before the pump or after the pump made a diferance. I have never posted a picture here but tomorrow I'll try.

You want the heaters as close to the CF as possible for best heat transfer. The size of the plumbing also matters. If too small, cavitation can be a problem. Generally, the input pipes should be larger than the output pipes, certainly not the other way around.

Another thought:

When oil is heated (before your pump), it expands, as it cools (after the pump), it contracts, lowering the pressure (opposite of what you want to achieve).
Recommendation: Move the heater to the output side of the pump as close to the CF as possible.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: canolafunola,

Registered: 08 May 2005

Ignored post by canolafunola posted

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Posted

quote:
Originally posted by canolafunola:
I can't remember but I wonder if Sam Crowe has the FF-60 LE or not? He was finding lot's of metallic particles (iron and brass) in his finished oil. If he has the FF-60 LE, I wonder if they could be from the bearings?

Sam is using an OC-50, not likely to be bearings since they are bronze and the particles he found are iron.

YVORMV - Your veg. oil results may vary, see www.burnveg.com/forum
95 Dodge Cummins 4x4 +87 300TD wagon Running on 2 tank WVO, 81 Mercedes 300D on V80/D20 blend
Low fossil house- 100% solar/wind power, 90% solar heated.

Location: N. Colorado | Registered: 31 August 2006

Ignored post by SunWizard posted

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Posted

quote:
Originally posted by dyoungen:
What kind of clear hose will stand 160 degree oil? My oil feeds out of the barrel thru a piece of black iron that has the heater element in it with the element threaded into a "T" that goes 90 degrees and drops down to a 3/8" fitting then into the pump. The only number on the pump is 1089 and there isn't any relief valve or anything except the fittings going into and out of the pump. The motor rpm is 1725.

The heater right before the CF as shown by my plans is better for several reasons:
1. the pump can't handle >140F sustained temp.
2. You get better flash evap. and particle removal.
3. Less heat loss so it is hotter at the CF.

Your pump may be too big for a 1/2hp motor. Without a model# or specs. I would guess thats the problem. Running through a pulley means you need more HP since there is some loss there compared to a direct coupling. You could get an idea if this is the problem by pumping some VO into a gallon jug (open flow, not through the CF) and timing it. Figure out the gpm you are getting.

I wouldn't worry about pipe size, 3/8 is way more than enough for 1gpm. Even 1/4NPT is big enough, thats what my pump has.

Location: N. Colorado | Registered: 31 August 2006

Ignored post by SunWizard posted

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Posted

quote:
Originally posted by SunWizard:
quote:
Originally posted by canolafunola:
I can't remember but I wonder if Sam Crowe has the FF-60 LE or not? He was finding lot's of metallic particles (iron and brass) in his finished oil. If he has the FF-60 LE, I wonder if they could be from the bearings?

Sam is using an OC-50, not likely to be bearings since they are bronze and the particles he found are iron.

I think the last batch he also found brass shavings, which is similar in color to bronz.

Sunwizard, I'm curious what your take is on his problems.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: canolafunola,

Registered: 08 May 2005

Ignored post by canolafunola posted

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OK, I'm trying to load my pictures. Lets see what happens.

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn107/dyoungen/centr...%20pics/P1010041.jpg

http://i302.photobucket.com/albums/nn107/dyoungen/centr...%20pics/P1010040.jpg

Looks like the pictures loaded. On the first picture the motor is the grey round object connected by a belt to the pump. Tomorrow I'll be rearranging the heater to the top of the barrel right before the centrifuge. Excuse the mess!!

Location: Hawkinsville, Ga. 31036 | Registered: 24 October 2001

Ignored post by dyoungen posted

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I see a serious flaw in the pickup point on the drum. It looks like it is 2 or 3" on the side above the bottom. You need to move it to the bottom. That means putting the drum on a stand. Is the ball valve the only means to control pressure? You really should have an automatic pressure relief valve (I do not see one in your pics). Make sure all your connections are air tight.

What model CF is that? Can you check the bearing slop? Take the white cover off, grab the knurled nut on the rotor and move it side to side. You should not hear or see movement between the bearing surfaces.

Registered: 08 May 2005

Ignored post by canolafunola posted

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I'm not sure I understand why the pickup tube needs to be on the bottom of the barrel. The fitting is at the bottom of the barrel, on the side. The picture with the centrifuge also has the relief valve. It is the gold colored fitting to the left of the pressure gage and above the "T". It is hard to see. I have the FF25LE spinclean centrifuge. I has less than hour runtime and there is no sideplay in the bearing.

Location: Hawkinsville, Ga. 31036 | Registered: 24 October 2001

Ignored post by dyoungen posted

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Posted

The way it is, water and particles that settle to the bottom will not be picked up.

Registered: 08 May 2005

Ignored post by canolafunola posted

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Ok, if I tilt the barrel so the oil pickup is at the bottom, would that work?

Location: Hawkinsville, Ga. 31036 | Registered: 24 October 2001

Ignored post by dyoungen posted

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Posted

quote:
Originally posted by dyoungen:
Ok, if I tilt the barrel so the oil pickup is at the bottom, would that work?

No, see my comments about that on the summary on page 1 of the dieselcraft thread, and on every few pages for the last 20.

Location: N. Colorado | Registered: 31 August 2006

Ignored post by SunWizard posted

tcr1016

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Posted

Does the CF dewater along with filtering??? Or would I need to dewater the oil first??

Also I bought a motor, but it did not come with a pulley. Where do I get the shaft and pulley???

95 Safari RV 33'
Cummins 5.9L (230HP) B Series

Registered: 10 September 2006

Ignored post by tcr1016 posted

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Posted

quote:
Originally posted by tcr1016:
Does the CF dewater along with filtering???

Yes, see my summary on page 1 of the dieselcraft thread.

quote:

Also I bought a motor, but it did not come with a pulley. Where do I get the shaft and pulley???

See my answer in the other thread right below this one where you asked the same question.

Location: N. Colorado | Registered: 31 August 2006

Ignored post by SunWizard posted

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Well, I rearranged my setup like I said I was going to do. I suck the oil from the tank and instead of running it thru the heater before the pump the oil goes thru the pump and then thru the heater. It did heat up faster this way and the pressure was up around 50+ psi for awhile till I turned my back and the setscrew on the pump pulley went flying. Looks like I have more fine tuning to do.

Location: Hawkinsville, Ga. 31036 | Registered: 24 October 2001

Ignored post by dyoungen posted

welder

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Posted

quote:
canolafunola
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Posted 08 May 2008 06:11 PM Hide Post
Sleeve bearings

quote:
Posted 08 May 2008 06:53 AM Hide Post

quote:
jon , There are different types of bearings. A shaft in a bronze bushing is a sleeve bearing.

I may be wrong, but I think the difference between a bearing and a bushing is that a bearing uses some sort of roller to turn sliding friction into rolling friction, whereas a bushing is usually just a softer self lubricating bronze surface which bears the sliding friction directly without any rolling sub component.

The different types of bearings I'm aware of are types like ball bearings (spherical), roller bearings (cylindrical) and needle bearings (conical).

Of course there are air bearings, but that a very different physical bearing dynamic altogether.

If buying a lathe, bearings are preferred, but if buying a .45 handgun, bushings are likely the only option available.
Registered: 08 May 2005

Canola, if you follow that link, you'll see a crude cross view of an internal cutaway schematic clearly showing the rollers inside the sleeve bearings. Bearings aren't built the same as bushings, that's why there are two different words for them:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bearing_%28mechanical%29

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bushing

Bearings convert sliding friction into rolling friction, while bushings are often made from alloys like self lubricating bronze or a polymer.

Registered: 26 September 2005

Ignored post by welder posted