quote:

Originally posted by vegtable:
Tigafila - will you let me know what vendor/supplier you're using for those part #'s you listed? Forgive me if I overlooked it.

thanks

If it's OK for me to answere the question I will, if not just ignore this post :-)

SurplusCenter.com

I am sure on of the other posters will be glad to give you the answere. :-)

The answere is also in the 11th post above this reply :-)

2545 gallons so far :-)

What he said! Tigafila

quote:
Originally posted by vegtable:
Tigafila - will you let me know what vendor/supplier you're using for those part #'s you listed? Forgive me if I overlooked it.

thanks


If it's OK for me to answere the question I will, if not just ignore this post :-)

SurplusCenter.com

I am sure on of the other posters will be glad to give you the answere. :-)

The answere is also in the 11th post above this reply :-)

2545 gallons so far :-)

Flyboyd8, Central NY

I wonder if I had discovered this http://www.amazon.com/Kats-13100-Alumininum-Circulating-Heater/dp/B000BO8X9K
before I bought a couple water heater elements, had black pipe Tees altered to fit the elements, and bought a bunch of other miscellany; would have taken care of heating the oil when using the CF?

ABOVE is a quote from somewhere around Pg 18 of this thread. it seemed to hold interest for a bit and people purchased them. . . .then nothing???? has this option totally been dropped??

Let us know. thanks.

Is there a consensus on a design and layout using the FF60LE. I've spent a couple of hours trying to decipher the collection of topics/thoughts on this thread (very challenging indeed) and wondering if we can begin to visualize the essence of the design/layout? I know this may seem obvious to those of you who've been doing this for a year plus. For those of us who are just jumping on board. . . (as quoted earlier on in this thread) why should we try to reinvent the wheel here.

Moreover, i realize that FLYBOYD8 seems to be the successful pioneer. Do I use his pics and layout as the main reference?

thanks for your time and thoughts

Veg

quote:

Moreover, i realize that FLYBOYD8 seems to be the successful pioneer. Do I use his pics and layout as the main reference?

Well, this kinda speaks for itself:

quote:

2545 gallons so far :-)

Flyboyd8, Central NY

My personal two challenges are raising the money, and deciding on whether to use a separate pump head and motor combination, with belts and pulleys, like some have suggested (it's nice to be able to adjust the flow by changing pulley sizes) or going with a close-coupled motor and pump that's sized correctly (no fuss, no muss, no belts to worry about getting caught in). Of course the belt and pulley option is much cheaper. Pump, motor, and pulleys cost less than $200, while the close-coupled setup is over $320.

Doesn't matter for me, I still have to solve #1. Although, with the price of diesel going up so quickly now, I may have to go into more debt so i can burn free fuel. Seems like it would pay for itself rather quickly.

I am the pioneer here, I started using a CF before others here (2 years ago) and its working great. See my summary link at the top of the Dieselcraft thread, that design works great for other brands, and is what Flyboyd8 and about 100 others designed from.

How you design yours is very flexible, you just need something to heat it, and something to pump it at 90psi and proper flow for which model you get.

quote:

Originally posted by vegtable:
Is there a consensus on a design and layout using the FF60LE. I've spent a couple of hours trying to decipher the collection of topics/thoughts on this thread (very challenging indeed) and wondering if we can begin to visualize the essence of the design/layout? I know this may seem obvious to those of you who've been doing this for a year plus. For those of us who are just jumping on board. . . (as quoted earlier on in this thread) why should we try to reinvent the wheel here.

Moreover, i realize that FLYBOYD8 seems to be the successful pioneer. Do I use his pics and layout as the main reference?

thanks for your time and thoughts

Veg

A couple of hrs!!! you have only just started your research.

This thread is only 23 pages long, if you want to see the real pioneer thread, that would be SunWizards 123 page thread. (Please, Bookmark his CF Summary, and also his truck Summary, both listed on the first page of his thread, they are great referances also)

I very much like the lay out of my origonal unit (photos on page 14). It has served me well and to that unit I don't intend to make any changes. It has features that allow it to be filled or emptied using it's own pump. it has currently processed 2545 gallons of WVO. It also has an element in the side towards the bottom of the drum that I have never used. I hammer formed the bottom to make it coned. the red hose you see in the photos is Low Pressure Hyd. hose, it is a Gates product but is basicly the same thing as any 5/8" transmition cooler hose. (rated for 400F and 500PSI) it is available from NAPA or any of the real auto parts stores. I have added a make sure, just in case filter to the exit port. it is a sym-tex filter base and a 10 micron spin on sym-tex filter ( look to Sunwizards truck summary, DieselCraft thread for info and vender.).They seem to last very well, a lot of my oil goes into storage to be used in spring work, so as to avoid putting any less than perfect oil in a storage tank to contaminate the whole tank, I added the filter to the exit port.

You will never have any Idea of the conditions of the oil I CF, because of the temp difference of our locations. I routeenly spin unsettled oil, I don't care how long it sets at temps under 30f it doesn't settle at all. your oil even from a horible source would be golden to my Pudding to Lard consistency of oil in the winter. I thaw my oil by both electric elements and a lp gas turkey fryer, I hoist the whole drum up and put the burner right under it and in an hour I will have warm oil. that's a 55000 BTU burner. I just looked out my back porch door and my thermometer on the back deck just got shade and it registers 20F at this hr. of today. Tommorow I know I will be picking up at least 4 full drums and 15 to 20 cubies.

It was I who descibed using Fifty Caliber ammo cans, welded to the top of drums for collection drums, I currently have 23 drums in service with 7 waiting for cans. looking for more every day.

Think you situation threw, what would work well for me isn't neccisarly right for you. look at all the options and decide what you need in a CF unit.

I am currently gathering the "Stuff" to put the next unit together. it will be different than my first rig. I had the priveleg of aguiring from Charly Andersone of GoldenFuel a nearly new, but neglected, (thats just the way he described it) Spinner II 960. The FF60LE is a clone (or at least built from the expired Spinner II patents ) of the 960. All my pluming for this rig will be internal of the drum. I may make it a 100 gallon rig. It will also feature a coned bottom, but my pickup will draw from the bottom of the cone internaly,the oil pickup will be attached directly to the lower end of a tube heater. I will draw the oil from the top of the heater, my pump, motor and CF will share a removable top frame similar to the frame on the existing one.

Still gathereing,

Thank you for your thoughts.

Wow! Looks like i stepped on some egos. I am sorry to offend. I use this forum as a means of dissemination of information. . that's it. The questions i asked were meant purely to distill a boat load of information.

I get the IMPRESSION the consensus is:

1) there is no real difference b/tw CF's(dieselcraft,filterfuge,mann-hummell, etc.,.)

2)there is no universally applicable design (i.e. appleseed)

3) I am required to sift through 100's of pages of random thoughts on the same topic in order to be a member of the CF club.

Am i totally off base here?

Thank you.

No offense taken, just correcting a mis-statement by 2 people above, which will help you find the answers you seek.

quote:

Originally posted by vegtable:
1) there is no real difference b/tw CF's(dieselcraft,filterfuge,mann-hummell, etc.,.)

Correct, only minor differences like the nickel versus zinc plating, and larger bearings on the dieselcraft.

quote:

2)there is no universally applicable design (i.e. appleseed)

See my summary link at the top of the Dieselcraft thread, its universal.

quote:

3) I am required to sift through 100's of pages of random thoughts on the same topic in order to be a member of the CF club.

No, See my summary link at the top of the Dieselcraft thread, page 1.

quote:

3) I am required to sift through 100's of pages of random thoughts on the same topic in order to be a member of the CF club.

Am i totally off base here?

No you are not off base. You have to read everything very carefully, especially the first page, because the first page (and the summary !) has photos of how you SHOULD NOT build it.

Hey ya'll. Thanks for the prompt responses.

Admittedly, my ignorance regarding the similarities between the Dieselcraft and the filterfuge are the root of my confusion. Those in the know seem to be jumping back and forth b/tw the DC and the SpinClean (filterfuge) threads. I did not know i could use the DC thread if i were going to buy an FF. I figured the FF60LE was a good bit different than the OC-20. It seems the biggest difference is their dirt/crud handling capacity.

Sunwizard: Thanks for the clarification of things. . .CF issue of design is MUCH clearer now.

Canolafunola: Thanks for reiterating SW's thoughts.

I'm looking forward to a more efficient means for cleaning WVO with the use of a CF

Thanks,

Veg

quote:

I am the pioneer here, I started using a CF before others here (2 years ago) and its working great...

SunWizard, I apologize. My comment referred specifically to the FF60LE, but I didn't state that, and I should have known better as the question was more about CF filtration in general. I've been reading the DC thread for almost a year now - started reading it before I even bought my car. I have read a good portion of the DC thread and your summary page. I greatly appreciate your pioneering work on the idea of using the DC (and Acme Juicerator for that matter), your determination to make it work, and measure and test the results.

vegetable, I agree with canolafunola. Yes, some of the "random thoughts" will be totally useless to you. Others may shed light on topics that you may have questions on, and others may help you to avoid mistakes some have made that could save you time and money. It's worth the time.

As a slight departure from the design direction the thread has taken, I have an operational question. My centrifuge (spin clean, filterfuge, whatever) FF25 has been doing a wonderful job for me for the last 6 months. My question is about rotor cleaning. When I clean my rotor, most of the time the accumulated junk is very difficult to remove. Almost dry and it adheres to the bowl like cement. Wood or plastic will not scrape it off, I have to use a metal implement. It is especially tenacious around the edges/corners of the ribs. I read of others simply wiping out their rotors. In no way could I do that. I don't let it get overly thick, rarely more than 1/4" thick. Some of it could be wiped out, especially near the lower edge of the bowl. What are the experiences others are having? Am I spinning too long, too fast, or is it just the makeup of my oil?

quote:

Originally posted by vegtable:
Hey ya'll. Thanks for the prompt responses.

I did not know i could use the DC thread if i were going to buy an FF. I figured the FF60LE was a good bit different than the OC-20. It seems the biggest difference is their dirt/crud handling capacity.

Thanks,

Veg

The OC-20 is basicly the same size as the FF25, the OC-50 is just slightly smaller than the FF-60. (size based on GPM) At the time I purchased my FF, the FF60 was about half the price of the OC-50.

I have not as yet ever held a DieselCraft of any size in my hands, or had the oportunity to measure the bearings size.( brass bushings (most likly a alloy containing brass) seem to be universal in all) I can state that the FF60 and The SpinnerII 960 have the same bearing diamaters, and the same center spindle diamater that the bearings ride their film of oil on :-)

With settled oil, I can spin 110 gallons between cleanings, and only have a 1/2 inch cake in the 4.5" diamater bowl. ( this will very based on quality of oil) .

SunWizard:

If I hadn't taken a break for supper, my post would have showed before yours!!! I hope you did notice that I made reference in several places to your THREAD, and several mentions of Bookmarking your Summorries! for refference. You did notice, I am sure, that we posted our responses at the same minute, you just slightly before mine.

I found this site threw The "Ford Truck Enthusiest" site. One of Alternate fuel Gurus on that site posted a link to your thread when It was only 40 pages.


HAPPY EASTER every one!!

I have the Dieselcraft OC-20 and run it at 90 to 100 psi, anywhere from 4 to 8 hours at 120 to 180 F. My goop is sometimes soft that can be wiped off with a tissue and sometimes hard but not that hard I have to use a metal scraper (which I do not like to use due to scratching the bowl!) I use a sharpened chopstick and "chisel" it out when it can not be wiped with a tissue. It works well and takes me a minute and I finish cleaning whats left with a toothrush (I cut the bristles short to stiffen it) and hot soapy water, rinse and wipe dry and I'm done.

Maybe the hardness of the goop has to do with what it consists of? I think it's time to start paying more attention to the goop. There is a discussion currently started by Sam Crowe on the Dieselcraft thread a few days ago where he found magnetic particles in the goop.

quote:

When I clean my rotor, most of the time the accumulated junk is very difficult to remove. Almost dry and it adheres to the bowl like cement. Wood or plastic will not scrape it off, I have to use a metal implement. It is especially tenacious around the edges/corners of the ribs. I read of others simply wiping out their rotors. In no way could I do that. I don't let it get overly thick, rarely more than 1/4" thick. Some of it could be wiped out, especially near the lower edge of the bowl. What are the experiences others are having? Am I spinning too long, too fast, or is it just the makeup of my oil?

quote:

Originally posted by Muleears:
As a slight departure from the design direction the thread has taken, I have an operational question. My centrifuge (spin clean, filterfuge, whatever) FF25 has been doing a wonderful job for me for the last 6 months. My question is about rotor cleaning. When I clean my rotor, most of the time the accumulated junk is very difficult to remove. Almost dry and it adheres to the bowl like cement. Wood or plastic will not scrape it off, I have to use a metal implement. It is especially tenacious around the edges/corners of the ribs. I read of others simply wiping out their rotors. In no way could I do that. I don't let it get overly thick, rarely more than 1/4" thick. Some of it could be wiped out, especially near the lower edge of the bowl. What are the experiences others are having? Am I spinning too long, too fast, or is it just the makeup of my oil?

What I have found with my FF60 is, I spin @ 100 PSI. and as High as 180, if the oil is unsettled and has alot of brown residual from frozzen food, ( Batter dipped frozzen food ) that seperates out of the oil first and If I spinn it for over 2 hours it will pack like cement, I do use a Steel scraper (actualy a small sharpend prybarY to remove it. yes the inside of my bowls have some scratches. As far as I can tell they have no adverse effect on the bowls. If my oil is real dirty, plugs a 30x30 mesh screen or crud builds up on the screen I will clean the bowl after 1 hour of spinning and that usualy gets all the brown stuff out, the cake from that point on is the black finner stuff that doesnt, compress to the level of cement. Please remember that not everyone has the year around ambiant outside temps for good oil setleing . I have spun oil that in 1hr of spinning I have filled the bowl of a FF60. that is 20+ ozs. of s**t.

To answere you question as best I can is, their oil is free of the residue from cooked froozen food. or there oil is well settled and free of the Cement forming compound.

Some times my bowl will have a ring of the cement cake at the interesction of the top and side, from there to the base the cake can be removed with a rubber spatula.

The dogs and cats at the farm love that hard stuff.

2600 gallons now spun.

I dont believe I will ever wearout the FF60.

I don't know where it was posted, but it was pretty much accepted that those heaters aren't going to heat high enough for the CF process. I bought one and ended up using it as a block heater in a VW diesel and it seems to do a satisfactory job of that.

quote:

Originally posted by vegtable:
I wonder if I had discovered this http://www.amazon.com/Kats-13100-Alumininum-Circulating-Heater/dp/B000BO8X9K
before I bought a couple water heater elements, had black pipe Tees altered to fit the elements, and bought a bunch of other miscellany; would have taken care of heating the oil when using the CF?

ABOVE is a quote from somewhere around Pg 18 of this thread. it seemed to hold interest for a bit and people purchased them. . . .then nothing???? has this option totally been dropped??

Let us know. thanks.

Hey Vegetable! Have you ever heard the phrase "my dog's better then your dog"?

It's the same old discussion[although some may view it as an argument] Chevy, Ford, Dodge, they will all do a job, get you down the road blah, blah, blah. In the end 'you pays your money and you takes your chances'.

You can read, take notes, ask questions about every word previously written and eventually you'll make a decision and start doing your own. But if you are looking for a consensus from this group of intelligent, determined and occasionally opinionated participants it AIN'T GONNA HAPPEN.

I spent like a year just reading before I ever asked a question. Then spent another year demonstrating my ignorance and not infrequently hearing about it in sometimes less then subtle responses.

Finally I started my own planning and collecting bits and pieces and parts and stuff and assembling it and eventually it worked.

quote:

Originally posted by vegtable:
Hey ya'll. Thanks for the prompt responses.

Admittedly, my ignorance regarding the similarities between the Dieselcraft and the filterfuge are the root of my confusion. Those in the know seem to be jumping back and forth b/tw the DC and the SpinClean (filterfuge) threads. I did not know i could use the DC thread if i were going to buy an FF. I figured the FF60LE was a good bit different than the OC-20. It seems the biggest difference is their dirt/crud handling capacity.

Sunwizard: Thanks for the clarification of things. . .CF issue of design is MUCH clearer now.

Canolafunola: Thanks for reiterating SW's thoughts.

I'm looking forward to a more efficient means for cleaning WVO with the use of a CF

Thanks,

Veg

quote:

Originally posted by Muleears:
I don't let it get overly thick, rarely more than 1/4" thick. Some of it could be wiped out, especially near the lower edge of the bowl. What are the experiences others are having? Am I spinning too long, too fast, or is it just the makeup of my oil?

Hi Cal,

Soaking it in hot soapy water (I use dawn), makes it come right out with a plastic dish scrubber. I just soak the top and the part that's like a retaining ring. I have an advantage of having two rotors, so I can keep the CF going while I soak the dirty one.

The bottom piece, with the jets, are wiped clean and "hosed" off with a jet spray of WD-40.

The "tube" above the bottom can be cleaned when necessary, with a 410 gauge shotgun barrel cleaning brush, and swabbed out with same tool (different cleaning tip).

Sam

Hi Cal,

Soaking it in hot soapy water (I use dawn), makes it come right out with a plastic dish scrubber. I just soak the top and the part that's like a retaining ring. I have an advantage of having two rotors, so I can keep the CF going while I soak the dirty one.


Sam[/QUOTE]

Thanks Sam, I too have two rotors. My oil is generally quite clean when I start. It has been through a 600 mic mesh when put in the collection barrel then through a 180 mic. collection nozzle when taken out of the barrel, then heated to around 140*F for a day then allowed to settle for at least a week. I could probably let my CF run for 8+ hrs before cleaning, I just don't want too much junk to collect in the rotor. I have never had more than 1/3" thickness to remove. This weekend, for example, I ran one 50 Gal. batch for a total of 17 hrs. in my ff25. Thats somewhere near 20 passes. The last cleaning had little more than a film in the rotor. BTW I cf at 150*F.