You adjust the pressure relief valve. 90-100psi is what I like.

Will a hot water heater thermostat work? I believe you could attach them to the side of the tank or on the heating element pipe, although the pipe would probably get hotter faster than the tank which would shut it off sooner. The ones I have found to to 160º, from what I have read that seems to be enough heat.
Rusty

I'm sure this is already covered either here or else on Sunwizards DC thread, but I'm wondering if anyone knows of a decent quality relief valve that can be installed into a CFs plumbing. Not all pumps used on these CFs have their own built-in valves so it would be nice to know which ones have brough other people success.



Another question relating to using bare pump heads that lack a relief valve is the question of whether anyone has tried using a regulator on these CF systems?

The reason I ask about regulators is that in researching my SVO lift pump project (still unfinished) I spoke with a bunch of local industrial suppliers and after explaining what I was trying to do, they pretty much all agreed that a bypass style regulator was needed. The reason they recomended against only using a relief valve is that apparently when the relief valve opens it not only lets out pressure but also flow. This seems obvious, but what they also said was that when the flow is reduced by bleeding some off via the relief valve the line pressure drops drastically. They felt that a relief valve working alone wouldn't really offer accurate pressure control. I guess that makes sense considering the difference in names between "relief valve" and "pressure regulator".

A relief valve relieves pressure, but a regulator regulates it. The function is similar but different. A relief valve doesn't necessarilly maintain constant downline pressure and flow after the valve cracks and starts bypassing fluid. Bypass regulators are designed to do so.

I know many people have had good success using only a relief valve to guard against excess pressure, but I think that their success might be largely due to their pumps volume being reasonably close to the CFs max flow capacity (or at least safely under it). In other words, as long as the CF can take all the pumps flow of liquid, the valve will never crack open and the line pressure won't drop drastically.

Is any of this making any sense to anyone?

I think John Galt is a hydronics tech. Maybe he might explain the finer points of controling fluid dynamics in this type of application.

quote:

Originally posted by rtarh2o:
Will a hot water heater thermostat work?

Yes.

quote:

Originally posted by Flyboyd8:
Who Makes the Spinclean, now Filterfuge?
[snip]
To set the record as strait as I can, I believe the Spinclean is just another copy of of Mann+Hummell with slight changes to avoid, patent infringments. They look very similar on the outside and inside, but there are small differnces on the inside as well as outside. I know the Spinclean works well, and I believe the SpinnerII will also.

Ken,

Central NY

I'm Glad to see people are starting to get the name straight on this CF.

I'll just add to what Flyboyd8 and 4x4Cove have said.

The CF that people call spinclean in this forum are actually FilterFuge, which is a new product.
These are MFGd in the UK just like the Mann Hummel which lost their patent, but are a lot cheaper. When you contact www.dieselproducts.com, they will point you to the Filterfuge product line because of the cost savings. The Filterfuge products are not yet listed on their website, but you can see the real Spinclean or the Spinner products. The new website for the Filterfuge product line will be FilterFugePlus.com. (Filterfuge.com is owned by someone else).

They have several FilterFuge models, Four I believe, but the 2 most common for us folk are the FF25LE and the FF60LE. The LE denotes a lesser price due to the elimination of the COV (cut off valve) which requires extra parts and machining. The COV won't send any oil to the CF until it reaches a preset pressure (approx 30PSI). This was designed into the products for automotive applications but Sun has stated that it works nicely when diverting oil from your CF system to a storage container. The COV automatically shuts off the CF with the pressure drop caused by turning your ball valve to divert oil from the CF system. Just add a second ball valve (less than $10) and save approx $100 price difference between the FF60 & FF60LE.

Compare the FF60LE to the DieselCraft oc-50 and you'll find about $300 savings with the FF60LE. Granted the DC comes with a pressure gauge, mount, some brass fittings and a ball valve, but the FF60LE filters nearly one GPM faster, and holds more gunk.

$199 for the FF60LE. 2.7GPM
$185 for the FF25LE. 1.0GPM
$15 shipping
(Viton o-ring kits available too)

I can attest that these Canadians have good customer service. Hopefully the upcoming website will make posts like mine obsolete and unnecessary.

Someone should rename this thread the FilterFuge Centrifuge since it really has nothing to do with the spinclean.

Filter on,
-Preston

Is a 115V 1/4HP motor strong enough to get the psi to 90?? Also can I run the 115V off a regular house plug?? Is the PSI controlled by the pully size?

No 1/4hp is too small. Yes house plugs are 115v. PSI is best controlled by a bypass valve or pressure relief, and you can adjust it some by pulley size.

(Quote) I'm Glad to see people are starting to get the name straight on this CF.

I'll just add to what Flyboyd8 and 4x4Cove have said.

The CF that people call spinclean in this forum are actually FilterFuge, which is a new product.
These are MFGd in the UK just like the Mann Hummel which lost their patent, but are a lot cheaper.
[/QUOTE]

Hi Preston:

I jus dug out my instructions and Invoice for my FF60.

WOW, Low and Behold! On one of the pages I recieved with my CF it does indeed have the ord/name, "FilterFuge" across the top as the name of my CF. In dealing with IDP they never called it a FIlterFuge, but now can somehow se the resemblece of FF60 to FilterFuge.

My invoice lists it as a FF60LE, but I do indeed have the COV. that is probably what they had instock at the time and I am very happy with it. I to have the extra, ball valve because my COV does sometimes hangup, but I believe that is because the finest I screen my WVO to before Spinning is a 30x30 mesh suchsion screen. Over 2200 Gallons spun at this time.

Ken
Central, NY

Flyboyd8 and other with a FF60, I am gathering parts to put one of these together and tried to find the specific pump on surplus center that Flyboyd8 is using and couldn't. Would this pump be about the same? how do I figure what rpm I need to get it to flow correctly? TIA, Tigafila

pump

quote:

Flyboyd8 and other with a FF60, I am gathering parts to put one of these together and tried to find the specific pump on surplus center that Flyboyd8 is using and couldn't. Would this pump be about the same? how do I figure what rpm I need to get it to flow correctly? TIA, Tigafila

That pump will work, that is the equivelent as to what I am running. if you use a 1725rpm motor use a 3" pulley on the motor and a 2 on the pump, that gives you a 1.5 increase in rpm's over the motor. The pump should turn 2587.5 rpm's. this is my current ratio. I spin @ 100 psi, and have a small amount of oil bypassing . I origonaly used a 3" to 2.5, but @ 160+f my bypass would stop and I would only have 90 psi. I spin at 100 psi, as SunWizard has said he also sees faster cleaning @100psi.

The Pump you linked to is a CW, I use a CCW, that is what is shown on page 14 of this thresd. A CW pump will feed oil from the opposite side as mine, If you turn it over from what I show in the photo. it would have the same oreantation. Just be aware of the way it turns and the input and output sides.

Did you notice that the pumps are SAE thread. when you order the pump get the fitting to go from O-ring to NPT. (SurplusCenter has them, look farther down the left margin of the Hydralic page) I recomend that you get the o-ring to swivel, either straight or 90s. that way you can remove the pump or replace it without taking every thingy apart.

2285 spun so far.

Long live the IDI

Ken

I found this at a salvage yard, going to try and use it with the CF.

CF Tank

Does anyone know where I can get a screen to put on my suction hose when filling the cf from the storage barrel? How fine does it have to be for the FF-60? Can't wait to get this thing!! Thanks, Tigafila

quote:

Originally posted by tigafila:
Does anyone know where I can get a screen to put on my suction hose when filling the cf from the storage barrel? How fine does it have to be for the FF-60? Can't wait to get this thing!! Thanks, Tigafila

Try Mcmaster-Carr.

You might look at page 347, I use #98755k14. and 15. 20 mesh when picking up oil. 30 mesh is what I use to fill CF drum. I think I listed these here on the thread before. I maybe mistaken, but wanted to list them. :-) this seems to be more than fine enough for the FF60, because of the smaller nozzle size in the FF25 I would recoment a tighter mesh for a 25.

quote:

Originally posted by Flyboyd8:

That pump will work, that is the equivelent as to what I am running. if you use a 1725rpm motor use a 3" pulley on the motor and a 2 on the pump, that gives you a 1.5 increase in rpm's over the motor. The pump should turn 2587.5 rpm's. this is my current ratio. I spin @ 100 psi, and have a small amount of oil bypassing . I origonaly used a 3" to 2.5, but @ 160+f my bypass would stop and I would only have 90 psi. I spin at 100 psi, as SunWizard has said he also sees faster cleaning @100psi.

Flyboyd8, Thanks for putting up that info - it helped me to understand the math. Now, what Horsepower rating would you recommend? I'm looking at the pump posted above from surpluscenter, and pulleys they have, but I'm not finding a suitable motor there. Harbor Freight has several 1725 rpm motors at 1/2, 3/4, and 1 HP. Not a big cost difference between them so I'd assume to go with the highest possible. Here's a link:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=2729

Looks like total cost would be less than $200 - pump, motor, shipping, belt, pulleys. So you think that this is better than going with a slightly higher-priced close-coupled setup such as this?

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/items/6PA32

The motor/pump that grainger has would seem to be just what the FF60 would want - no fuss, no muss, and it has viton seals. Again, it's only 1/2 HP though. Think this is enough?

Thanks again to everyone who's spending precious time and money doing this research.

1/2 hp is plenty on a close coupled, you might need 3/4 if doing pulleys due to belt HP losses.

I haven't gotten it yet but here's what I ordered:

1 10-2368 3/4 HP 1725 RPM 115/230 99.95 1 9-7144-D 0.25 cu in DYNAMIC GPF10 72.95 1 9-6901-6-6 SAE 6M x 3/8 NPTF 90 SWI 4.80 1 9-6901-8-8 SAE 8M x 1/2 NPTF 90 SWI 5.50 Total $: 183.20

I chose that motor because it's reversible and will run on 120 or 220 volts. I already have pulleys but if you check the site they have a good selection of pulleys also. I chose not to go direct drive because of the flexibility of changing speeds by swapping pulleys. Tigafila

Tigafila:
I believe your choices are very good. that is basicly the same as I run with the exception of the motor. I had a 5/8 hp, 115/230,reversible motor on the shelf. I do run it on 230. my pump is just a different series, but of the same displacement.

If you havn't already ordered I would personaly use there the 3/4 hp #10-2233 motor @ 79.95

I may use my CF more than some, since Oct of 07 I have proccessed 2435 gallons of WVO. I am very happy with my unit and am busy gahtering and building "stuff" to put a second one together.

I just took delivery of their 3/4 HP #10-2364 motor. It is a low rpm motor 1040 rpms, it will be coupled to a modified SBC oil pump. I already have a SpinnerII 960 CF to build around. I may even weld two drums together on this one. or at least another 1/2.

After I looked some more, and after looking at your pump Tigafila, I found a few pumps that will work. I think I'll end up going with the one Flyboyd8 suggested, the 3/4 one. I have to raise the money first through selling my junk on ebay!

quote:

Originally posted by NylonOxygen77:
After I looked some more, and after looking at your pump Tigafila, I found a few pumps that will work. I think I'll end up going with the one Flyboyd8 suggested, the 3/4 one. I have to raise the money first through selling my junk on ebay!

There is nothing wrong with going with a slightly higher displacement pump also, .31 or .36. you can then run it at a slower speed. I don't have any info or results to tell you about as to what pump could be direct coupled to a motor, and have the right volume and bypass. I like to have bypassed oil, that allows for the difference in viscosity of the different types of oil, at different temp. now isn't that a lot of differents:-).

What ever pump you choose, look at the mount size, SAE AA is what the smaller ones are, SAE A is a larger mount. My pump is a AA.

Today I will be spinning another 110 gallons.

Tigafila - will you let me know what vendor/supplier you're using for those part #'s you listed? Forgive me if I overlooked it.

thanks