Welder,

quote:

What are you planning to use your gear pump on?

basically a backup, any ideas??

Evan, I don't remember enough from my physics classes to show you a formula but I am 90% sure that the centrifugal force would increase exponentially as rpm increases. Maybe someone with a better background than me will chime in but I am sure the difference in G force between 70 and 100psi would be significant.

quote:

Originally posted by canolafunola:
Are the new DC bowls really nickel plated aluminum?

Hi Canola, could be nickel plated steel, I was thinking aluminum, but don't know. But I've talked to DieselCraft about the nickel plating last summer and at the time they were the new rotors.

quote:

Mine is the old ones with the zinc plated steel. The plating is slowly being eaten away by the veg oil. I wonder if that would cause the o-ring seal to leak when the plating is gone and whether the warranty covers it?

I doubt it would cause the o-ring seal to break. Drop them a note and ask if the zinc is covered under the warranty.

The part you are calling the bowl and base I call the rotor. I think you have to replace the whole thing if one part needs replacing (or send it in and have them balance them together).

Sam

Its nickel plated steel. Losing the zinc makes no difference to the oring or anything else. It does mean you have some water soluble acids in your VO since thats what would eat the zinc. This could also eat metals in your vehicle.

quote:

Originally posted by evangelos:

quote:

i dont use the cf at higher than 70psi

when i first setup my SC i came across info that there was not much of a difference in using higher pressure.

I also find a huge difference between 70 and 100psi. About double the speed and effectiveness, mentioned many times in the dieselcraft thread.

quote:

Originally posted by fabricator:
http://www.msu.edu/~venkata1/gforce.htm

Wow, changing the RPM's from 4K to 7K (I'm guessing at the change between 70 and 100psi) changes the g force produced from 890 g's to 2700+g's Thats three times the g force.

wow i guess with so many G's the color must change also right because at 70psi there no more water.

how is your oil different now? do have good oil to start with? what is the temp you clean at?

thanks

I have dark (burned?) oil to begin with. Even when its clean it looks like lite maple syrup. I CF at 170*F, usually for 10+ hours/40gal. Before my gauge went funky (when I was really at 100psi) my oil got clean quicker. I have only done one batch with the new gauge.

Flyboy -
How fast are you spinning that Haldex .258? I just bought an FF60 which they call a Filterfuge FF60LE now. At 1800 rpm that Haldex says it only moves 2 gpm. The FF60 looks like it wants to move 2.5-2.7gpm. I was hoping to put a direct drive or close coupled motor to it but worry about the rpms now. Not a bad price though at $104 at Northern tool as new pumps go.

quote:

Originally posted by 4x4Cove:
Flyboy -
How fast are you spinning that Haldex .258? I just bought an FF60 which they call a Filterfuge FF60LE now. At 1800 rpm that Haldex says it only moves 2 gpm. The FF60 looks like it wants to move 2.5-2.7gpm. I was hoping to put a direct drive or close coupled motor to it but worry about the rpms now. Not a bad price though at $104 at Northern tool as new pumps go.

4x4:

I use a belt drive, my motor is 5/8 hp, 1725 rpm, 3" pully on motor, 2.5" on pump. that will give you a ratio of 1 to 1.2. That should turn the pump at 2070 rpms, with that my pump should move something like 3.023 gpm. And it does.

You may need to go to a slightly larger pump for a direct drive. Take a look at the Hyd. pumps at Surpluscenter dot com. they have a larger selection than Northern and also have a complete line of fittings to match any pumps ports.

I believe that for your CF you will want at least 3 gpm. as my oil gets above 160F my pressure will drop to 85 PSI. I believe that is caused by the thining of the oil, less viscuse.It would not be a bad thing to shoot for 3.25 GPM, your adjustable relief valve will just bypass a trickle.

Ken

Central NY

Who Makes the Spinclean, now Filterfuge?

Previously in this thread I wrote that I believed the Spinclean was made by Mann+Hummell. I made that assumption based on reviewing the photos of the SpinnerII 960, and My own in use at the time Spinclean FF60. Well now I own one of each. I now believe that I was wrong, the Spinclean is a similar sized and very similar designed unit. The SpinnerII 960 clearly states Mann+Hummell on its label.

To set the record as strait as I can, I believe the Spinclean is just another copy of of Mann+Hummell with slight changes to avoid, patent infringments. They look very similar on the outside and inside, but there are small differnces on the inside as well as outside. I know the Spinclean works well, and I believe the SpinnerII will also.

Ken,

Central NY

Thank you kindly for the details. I'll check out the Surpluscenter.
When I purchased my "Filterfuge" from Dieselcraft in Canada, they told me the units were actually made in the UK but they did not state the name of the manufacturer.
By the way Fly, do you have a PVC flange between the metal plate under your centrifuge and the pipe to the barrel?
Michael

Correction: Dealer in Canada is Industrial Diesel Products Inc at www.dieselproducts.com
Not Dieselcraft as I earlier mis-stated
Current pricing for US delivery is $215 for the FF60 and $185 for the FF25 according to Paul up there. He said the original patent, which has expired, for these units was owned by the German company Mannn+Hummell and were bought out by Glacier. The Canadian company at dieselproducts.com will shortly be www.filterfuge.com but that website is currently under construction.
Michael

quote:

Originally posted by 4x4Cove:
Thank you kindly for the details. I'll check out the Surpluscenter.
When I purchased my "Filterfuge" from ------------ in Canada, they told me the units were actually made in the UK but they did not state the name of the manufacturer.
By the way Fly, do you have a PVC flange between the metal plate under your centrifuge and the pipe to the barrel
Michael

No PVC, the white pipe is a piece of 1 1/2" steel tube that I welded to the plate that the CF is bolted to. The white steel tube came from a picked up along the road, discarded bed frame.

Ken

Anyone have the Dieselcraft, Spinner II and Spin Clean? I wonder how they compare in quality and features?

I believe the Spinner II models with the LE suffix does not have the check valve so will only be good for WVO filtration and not engine lube oil filtration. As I recall the Dieselcraft parts are made in the Pacific Rim and powder coated and assembled in the US. The Dieselcraft price has gone up substantially since I bought mine, about $100 more. However the $ increase includes a gauge, brass fittings and a ball valve and the base plate. Frankly, I think you are better off using black iron fittings which is cheaper and less reactive than brass so the $100 extra is not worthwhile. The Spinner II is a much better deal especially in the larger size if it performs equally well.

I gotta learn how to weld.....
Discarded bed frame.....
Your set up looks awesome Fly.
Michael

I have a question for those of you using the Dayton gear pump. The model I have has a pressure relief valve built into the pump, it is the model 6PA31. It is adjustable and I am wondering how to set it for initial use. If I turn it all the way in approximately how many turns out do I need to go for proper system pressure? Would this replace the relief valve most are using before the CF?
Rusty

Yes that replaces the relief valve. You need a pressure gauge on your rig, for setting and for operating it.

What is the latest as far as recommended pressure? How do I adjust the pressure, is it according to the speed of the motor?