Can anyone using manual valves post a picture of their setup? I'm having trouble figuring out how to use a pull rod in the cabin to switch the valve. Being that the rod goes in a linear way and the valve switch goes in a circular.

I have a picture but it will not let me post it says the file is to big. I got a throttle piece from the junkyard and mounted it to the top of the ball valve. This makes it circular. Getting just the right cable seems to be the hard part.

My manual valves are mounted through the floor so no cable required:

Sunwizard, I like it. no solenoid valves to fail.

quote:

Originally posted by canolafunola:
Sunwizard, I like it. no solenoid valves to fail.

I went for the manual method after reading the hundreds of threads on this and other forums about troubles with solenoid valves. And it didn't hurt that it was cheaper and easier to install since no wiring needed, just plumbing.

It also works as an anti-theft device, I can turn all 3 valves to a non flowing position and take off the labels and no crook can figure out how to get it started since the handles turn 360 Or in a really bad 'hood, take the handles in my pocket.

Hi Mattbob,

I have a three way ball valve attatched to the firewall as my fuel selector. The setup is the same as SunWizards except I have extended the shaft through the firewall and onto the dash where a dial is used to change and indicate fuel in use.

I removed the standard handle on the ball tap and replaced it with a old socket of the correct size. I then used a longer screw to secure the socket to the ball tap. A piece of steel rod was then welded into the end of the socket. This rod runs through the firewall and exits through a hole on the dash. The dial was added to the end of the rod.

The only hassles were to locate the unit in the correct place on the firewall to get the correct location on the dash. When the standard handle is removed you need to be able to mark the correct dial positions on the dash. I just made up a cardboard template of the correct positions and transfered them to the dash.

I don't have a pic of the dial but you can see the ball tap mounted on the firewall in this pic of my Toyota HJ45 Troopcarrier. Hope this is a help froggo.

GetAttachment1.jpg (21 Kb, 101 downloads) getattatchment1

Man I am having quite a time figuring out how to do the floor mount on my 300d. I would have those hoses run straight through the cabin if there was an easy way to do it. Looks like I might have someone weld on some sockets.

How bad do you want to keep your back seat? Probably not an option for you, but I took out part of my back seat and built another trunk for my tank and valves. In my suburban the middle row seat has two sections so I removed the small section on the passenger side for the new "trunk". Then I mounted the three manual valves on the top and I can reach them from the drivers seat. The setup uses two electric pumps that push the different fuels to a four-way junction just before the megatherms and final small filter. The extra junction has a line running to a manual on/off valve under the hood that serves as a purge route for either fuel. Within reach there is a manual on/off valve for each fuel and a manual three way valve for routing the return. I tried using check valves on each loop but the WVO check valve would stick open sometimes so I just went with the manual valves on each fuel line from the tanks. I like SunWizard's point about the security aspect of manual valves. The manual purge valve location adds another 6 - 8 feet of fuel line to the pre-valve return line, but you can time your return switch-over accordingly if your worried about that. Both manual fuel supply valves are above their tanks and are under vacuum when in use so I am not worried about them leaking fuel. The three way return valve could develop pressure if for some reason it was left centered, but that would probably blow off one of the return lines on an injector before anything else went. I have the tank enclosed / vented / drained mainly because of the coolant lines to the HotFox.

Sunwizard,
May I ask how you mounted these valves beneath the floor? Is this a tilt-cab? What happens when you tilt the cab? As I understood it, it doesnt have cables so you mean the valve themselves are screwed to the underneath? Thanks.

quote:

Originally posted by SunWizard:
My manual valves are mounted through the floor so no cable required:

quote:

Originally posted by brain:
May I ask how you mounted these valves beneath the floor? Is this a tilt-cab?

No.

quote:

As I understood it, it doesnt have cables so you mean the valve themselves are screwed to the underneath? Thanks.

Correct, they have a nut you tighten inside the cab that holds them in place.

quote:

Originally posted by SunWizard:

quote:

Originally posted by canolafunola:
Sunwizard, I like it. no solenoid valves to fail.

I went for the manual method after reading the hundreds of threads on this and other forums about troubles with solenoid valves. And it didn't hurt that it was cheaper and easier to install since no wiring needed, just plumbing.

It also works as an anti-theft device, I can turn all 3 valves to a non flowing position and take off the labels and no crook can figure out how to get it started since the handles turn 360 Or in a really bad 'hood, take the handles in my pocket.

sun I mounted my valves in the same place as you in my dodge. My 3 way valves also will turn past the correct position. I my valves are valveworx brand

http://www.valvestore.com/products.asp?dept=1549-
about $33 bucks but they are good for really high temp and pressure. Anyway, I had to cut of the tab (off of the handle) that stops the valve in position in order to mount to the floor.

so my valves handles will also spin 360. I don't really find this to be the best setup. I wish i would have worked it out for them to stop in the correct postion. I have been a little worried about the valves being in the right position and not leaking. Also my son and dog are good at stepping on the valves and putting them in the wrong position without my knowing. so I am wondering if I am risking any damage if they are are switched in the wrong postions. Particularly I am wondering what would be the result of blocking off the return valve completely. what about blocking the supply (fuel selector) valve and starving the lift pump. (probably not enough time to damage the lift pump). anyway thanks.

This was a manual valve mount idea I posted a while ago. It might be worth considering.

I have been using manual valves that I can reach from the drivers seat and they work great. The modifications I did to the interior of my old Suburban would probably not work in a sedan or pickup, but for those applications, I have a suggestion for consideration. I stress consideration because naturally I only really know my system (And the three prior versions ... uhg).

This set-up would need the same dual electric lift pump system that I use, which pushes to a tee before the injection pump. If the fuel supply lines coming from each tank and the return lines were routed into a small "box" that was within reach of the drivers seat, then manual valves could be installed on those lines and mounted to the "box" without cables or rods. The "box" in my application is actually a large vented and drained enclosure that holds the WVO tank and the valves are mounted to the top. Kind of like a trunk behind the front seat. But for a sedan, just a small box mounted to the floor or transmission hump might work. One problem might be the HIH or HOH bulk of the WVO line. But it would seem that a small loop (Less than a foot) away from the coolant and up to the valve would be OK. In my box / trunk I have room to route the HOH right to the valve. The diesel line would be easy to elbow to the valve and back out. The return would need one line coming back from the engine, elbowed into the box to a 3-way and then the two other lines routing back out of the box and on to the tanks. If the box is sealed / vented and drained it would seem to be safe. Depending where you place your pumps would dictate pressure or vacuum at the manual valves. If both lift pumps were up in the engine bay, then without check valves, one valve would be under vacuum and the other under pressure during operation. Without a looped return, the 3-way would be under very slight pressure during operation.

Prior to this incarnation, like others, I used check valves instead of manual or electric, but my WVO check valve after the filter did not alway seat properly, so I went manual. That prior system was truly valveless as I used two check valves and a purge pump on the return line to avoid manual or electric valves on the return as well. That set-up performed fine, (Except for the WVO check valve). But when I gave up on the check valves and mounted the manual valves within reach, I just went back to a 3-way on the return for simplicity. I did leave the check valve on the diesel supply line and it seems to always seat well (You can tell by the pressure reading). With the check valve on the diesel, while running on WVO, the WVO valve is under vacuum from the lift pump and the diesel valve is under a very slight vacuum.

This is were I put all the disclaimer stuff in fine print.

Does anyone have any info on the question I asked above?

Folks would laugh at what I'm using.I ran my fuel line from stock tank into trunk area,I have another small tank for diesel( which I will change to 10 gal wmo/wvo tank).OK fuel line from tank into 2 way brass water hose splitter $5.The small tank into other side.From out the spliiter to stock primary filter,to 12 psi electric fuel pimp(gerneric pump $45.).From fuel pump down thru tunk to metal lines headed to engine.From metal line at engine to fuel heater,to 5 micron filter,to lift pump.200 degree injection line heaters to heat wvo,and wmo.From cigar a tee,line back to stanadyne filter,other tee ball valve to return line.This way I can loop fuel.

Daniel, If you have a fuel pressure gauge on you system then it will tell you what your supply valves are doing. As far as damage is concerned there are a lot of variables there, with results that can range from just stalling the engine to stressing delivery components. But if you have the correct pressure reading then there shouldn't be a worry about that. As far as the return being blocked off, you could always put a check valve on a branch line upstream from the selector valve, with a low crack pressure and route that branch to your veggie tank. That way the return fuel will choose to go through the valve if it is open but will route through the check valve if the manual return valve is blocked. On my old engine, if the return valve is blocked then one of the little return lines will pop off an injector and route the return onto the road below.

Nathan, I tried to visualize your setup but I couldn't get it.