wedge tank
Rob Del Bueno
Vegenergy
Atlanta, GA

Omar
www.omarsales.com

I tried to get more information at the fossilfreefuel website, however it didn't seem like there was much available. Certainly not enough form me to make a decision to but any of their products. If there are some details of the fuel pickup somewhere I'd be glad to consider it, how does the price compare to the hot fox. I actually was going to use 1/8 steel and reinforce it at the seams with angle iron to form a frame and serve as mounting points, but someone who's opinion I trust and has been doing VO a long time and uses it for a number of purposed reckoned 1/4 was his preference. This is going in a bus. But I may still go for 1/8". Guess I need to look of specs for the weight comparisons. So the sump is what's supposed to keep the end of the pickup in the VO? I figured there baffles would be enough. Just unsure how big they need to be and the best placement.

There is very little information on our site... I apologize and this has definitely hurt us; I consistently try to keep our projects updated on the infopop forum as we continue to grow as a business and address some flaky web designer issues. We have worked them out and are close to a new site launch date. Any information you would need could be acquired by emailing us. We fabricate these in house so the unit can be made in any length. We have a formula that figures out the appropriate heights based upon your given tank height. The mounting flange is 5" and the unit requires a 4" hole in the tank. I would also do a search here for polymerization. You will find that a steel tank may not be the best option. If you do decide to go with a steel tank, I would advise against 1/8" as its totally overkill.
~Colin

The more recent input I have received suggest 12 to 18 gauge sheet metal, man how to you weld 12 gauge sheet metal? Seems like you'd burn right through it?

So how much do your pickups cost?

On the issue of steel, I just hate the idea of spendy aluminum. Doesn't anyone make a coating that would make a steel tank ok?

Hopefully you'll get your web site up to speed before I make my decision on a pickup. I mean doesn't Dana make them out of copper pipe and tubing?

quote:

Originally posted by Fossil Free Fuel:
There is very little information on our site... I apologize and this has definitely hurt us; I consistently try to keep our projects updated on the infopop forum as we continue to grow as a business and address some flaky web designer issues. We have worked them out and are close to a new site launch date. Any information you would need could be acquired by emailing us. We fabricate these in house so the unit can be made in any length. We have a formula that figures out the appropriate heights based upon your given tank height. The mounting flange is 5" and the unit requires a 4" hole in the tank. I would also do a search here for polymerization. You will find that a steel tank may not be the best option. If you do decide to go with a steel tank, I would advise against 1/8" as its totally overkill.
~Colin

http://www.4secondsflat.com/Fuel_Tank_Sealer.html

steel tank you may want to take a look at this product

good luck Omar
www.omarsales.com

I saw this stuff previously and wondered if the Acme juice CF guys could seal the strainers with and could then couldn't remember where I found it; thanks.

I am working on converting my truck to a two tank WVO system. I am in the resource stage now. I am planning on making my own tank it will be around 110 gallons. I have noticed that the size of the tanks different people are using very drastically. How much longer does it take to warm up the WVO and switch if the tank is larger? what other pro's and co's are there to big verses small when it comes to tank size? I am going to be taking trips in this truck and am sizing the tank to make a round trip. I am starting to think that i should might want to split the tank. I don't want it to take to long to warm up.

Sorry... I meant to post pricing in the last post... They cost $250 for most sizes unless you want something ridiculous like 4'... The ports are -8ORB... Pricing ive seen for the hotfox is 200... It's not baffled and doesn't have a return fuel port.
~Colin

quote:

Originally posted by Radrick:
I am working on converting my truck to a two tank WVO system. I am in the resource stage now. I am planning on making my own tank it will be around 110 gallons. I have noticed that the size of the tanks different people are using very drastically. How much longer does it take to warm up the WVO and switch if the tank is larger? what other pro's and co's are there to big verses small when it comes to tank size? I am going to be taking trips in this truck and am sizing the tank to make a round trip. I am starting to think that i should might want to split the tank. I don't want it to take to long to warm up.

A common misconception is that you need to heat the whole tank. All you really need is for it to be warm enough to flow through the fuel lines, and up to your heat exchanger. When I do a conversion, I just use enough heat in the tank to get things flowing.

-Handbuilt vegetable oil fuel tanks fabricated in oakland
-5052 H-32 aluminum construction
-Pressure tested to ensure no leaks
- Custom sizes and shapes available(tanks or heated fuel pickup)for running any diesel vehichle on svo/wvo/biodiesel(mercedes,dodge cummings,ford idi and powerstrokes,chevy,datsun,toyota, cars, trucks, and vans)
-I also fabricate mobile oil processors. these allow for onboard filtering and dewatering of waste vegetable oil
-all tanks are available with or without an in tankheat exchanger
-pictured are a few examples: mercedes trunk tank, mercedes wagon tanks that fit under the vehicle, vw jetta tank, mobile oil processing system
-prices start at $375.
-my name is brian. call me at 510.927.6391 if you have questions.


found this guy on craigslist
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/car/542438491.html

anyway take a look
Omar
www.omarsales.com

A common misconception is that you need to heat the whole tank. All you really need is for it to be warm enough to flow through the fuel lines, and up to your heat exchanger. When I do a conversion, I just use enough heat in the tank to get things flowing.[/QUOTE]

What do you use for the heat exchanger? Can this be acomplished with a pipe in a pipe? So if i use the large tank and bafle it off around the heating coil this should get that area flowing quicker? I noticed that you are from canada how quick after startup can you switch over to WVO in the winter?

quote:

Originally posted by Radrick:

What do you use for the heat exchanger? Can this be acomplished with a pipe in a pipe? So if i use the large tank and bafle it off around the heating coil this should get that area flowing quicker? I noticed that you are from canada how quick after startup can you switch over to WVO in the winter?

Generally speaking, as soon as I have warm air coming out of my heater, I can switch to vegetable oil.

For the tank, in the past I've soldered or welded up a heated fuel pickup. An off-the-shelf alternative is a hotfox:
http://www.plantdrive.com/shop/product.php?productid=16137&cat=252&page=1

I never, ever do hose-in-hose, tube-in-hose, etc. Too risky.

In my e300d, I'll be using a steel tank with a heated pickup on the bottom, that consists of steel tube welded to the OUTSIDE of the tank, and baffles inside to segregate the warmer fuel.

http://www.biofuelsforum.com/attachments/svo_users/333d...7image0007.jpg[/URL]

use a flat plate heat exchanger

more installs road test data

if it does not get below 30f most guy do not heat their wvo tank ...

http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/159605551/m/6421006031

just a thought
Omar
www.omarsales.com

quote:

Originally posted by Omar:
http://www.biofuelsforum.com/attachments/svo_users/333d...7image0007.jpg[/URL]

use a flat plate heat exchanger

more installs road test data

if it does not get below 30f most guy do not heat their wvo tank ...

http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/159605551/m/6421006031

just a thought
Omar
www.omarsales.com

I am in MN it was -21 two morning ago and I don't expect to reach 30f for a month or two.:-(( At -20f don't i need to heat and insulate all the WVO lines in order to make sure a blast of cold air doesn't cool the wvo? My chevy has a frame mounted lift pump i am assuming that i will need to add a second one for the wvo? I assume i want to connect the wvo valve as close as possible to the ip so it switches back to diesel with the least possible amount of diesel?

http://www.frytech.blogspot.com/

http://www.vegetablefueledmercedes.com/howto1.htm

have a good read
Omar
www.omarsales.com

My aluminum tank is nearing completion and I'd like some input on a couple of subjects. I'm using a hotfix pickup and there will be a sump in which the tip of the hotfox will rest. The height or depth of the tank is 15". If I understand the hotfox installation correctly if I order a 15" one the actual hotfox will be 15" and it comes with a threaded nipple 2" long that screws into the bottom of the hotfox, accordingly if I make the sump 2" deep and cut 1/2" off the nipple it should come within 1/5 of the bottom of the sump, is that correct???

Sending units, what should I be looking for in a sending unit?

Temperature gauge; do I need a temperature sensor in the tank or is an inline one close to the hotfox satisfactory.

Are thre pros/cons on how to fill the veg tank? Have a filler neck like a gas tank or a port and pump your oil into the tank.

A 15" HotFox will be 14-1/2" long, and ships with a 2" long brass nipple. The suggested distance from the end of the HotFox, with or without the extension nipple) and the bottom of the tank, is 1/2"

Craig

Thanks that was exactly what I needed to know.

quote:

Originally posted by plantdriver:
A 15" HotFox will be 14-1/2" long, and ships with a 2" long brass nipple. The suggested distance from the end of the HotFox, with or without the extension nipple) and the bottom of the tank, is 1/2"

Craig

The basic structure of the tank that will go in the bus is complete, a rectangular box with baffles and a sump that the top of the hot fox will rest in.. So now I am at the point of thinking in terms of ports. In addition to the one needed for the hot fox I figure I need at least one for return and then I am unsure after that.

I had been thinking in terms of filling the tank using a pump directly into the tank; its location makes a filler spout routed to the outside not impossible but difficult. I had thought a quick release hydraulic fitting something like what it used for the air connections between a tractor & trailer. This brings up the question of venting and of the need for a fuel gauge. I could install a fuel gauge sender and run wire to a dashboard gauge or I was wondering about just making some sort of site gauge out of clear plastic tubing and a couple of 90 degree fittings as I can see the end of the tank from the wheel well. Also on the need for a vent, yes or no?

So what do you think, filler neck vs direct pump connection; fuel sender vs sight gauge vent or no vent?