The start up tank is made from two lengths of 150 x 50mm hollow aluminium extrusion with capping plates welded on the ends.

Fittings were drilled and tapped into the end plates. One end has fuel feed and return with a sight tube...
...the other end with the filler neck and breather vent. The sight tube and breather connect the two chambers together.
This makes a good, robust tank for a working environment. It’s a bit on the small side, only containing about 10 liters of fuel, which means it needs to be topped up every couple of days. Maybe I’ll swap this for something larger if frequent refueling becomes too much of a hassle. I would have like to have put the second tank under the tub somewhere, but I crawled under the rear of the ute looking for a suitable space for the tank, with clear access for a filler neck, but in the end drew a blank.

V

http://www.biofuelsforum.com/svo_users/3347-mitsubishi_..._svo_conversion.html

have a good read
Omar
www.omarsales.com

quote:

Originally posted by Omar:
mercedes station wagon stock tank with Heat exchanger
http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/159605551/m/7461040671/p/3
heat exchanger for tank

Is this available for $9 anywhere anymore? Is it a waste of time going with something like this verses standard aluminum tubing? Do I really need 'this' much contact area in the tank (11-gallon 'cube-like' tank) for my little 1.9L TDI?

http://farm1.static.flickr.com/179/447577241_dba607742c_m.jpg
http://claytonbodiecornell.greenoptions.com/2007/04/18/...ball-challenge-2007/

quote:

Originally posted by Jesse_Boyer:

quote:

Originally posted by Omar:
mercedes station wagon stock tank with Heat exchanger
http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/159605551/m/7461040671/p/3
heat exchanger for tank

Is this available for $9 anywhere anymore? Is it a waste of time going with something like this verses standard aluminum tubing? Do I really need 'this' much contact area in the tank (11-gallon 'cube-like' tank) for my little 1.9L TDI?

I think they are $15
http://www.aquaticeco.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/product....il/iid/9248/cid/2224

you may want to check out this link also
http://www.deltatlimited.com/



anyway have a good read
Omar
www.omarsales.com

http://www.vegoiltanks.com/products.htm

MarkP 2nd tank on 300td

Mercedes station wagon 2nd tank



The diesel tank is a 6 gal sand rail tank, I think it is 32" took some doing to fit it up high enough, fueling access is through the floor, under the rear cover. I also made some stand pipes so i did not have to have fittings at bottom of tank. I also had to heat it up and press a flatspot into it to fit around stock tank mounting points. Over all was quite a pita.
The tank is available from Chirco in CA.
MarkP

Omar, I do believe that you have just shown us where CGoodwin gets his Heat Exchanger from.

quote:

you may want to check out this link also
http://www.deltatlimited.com/

anyway have a good read
Omar

Take a close look at the HE on the upper left corner of Delta T's home page.



ALSO

quote:

JohnyRRR:
I did find where he gets his coil heat exchangers from and ordered from them at half the price though http://doucetteindustries.com/

www.mycaratemylunch.com/fueltank.html

have a good view
Omar
www.omarsales.com

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=268322

http://www.baute.net/VeggieCar/index.htm

I'll post a few of mine that I just finished.

I started with an 'ebay' tank (11 gallon) that had a vew ports/etc on the top for fuel return, supply, and a hole for a fuel sender.

After adding and modifying, this is what I ended up with.

Via the temp sensor and digital gauge in the car, I saw tank temps as high as 171*. Granted, that's likely the temp of the aluminum the sensor is mounted in, but the temp of the oil should be as hot. This also took upwards of 50-75 miles of driving to reach those temperatures too...

10' of 1/2" OD copper, filled with salt to bend in a coil, sealed with compression fittings, held into the tank with 1/2" NPT fittings



Leak testing with 60+ PSI of water.



using the purge to fill with diesel, removing all air from the new fuel system.

This is the final tank setup. The fill neck has a 2" to 3" rubber plumbing fitting with a 3" PVC thread in cap (with the threads removed via grinder) as a fuel cap. It seals nicely and has a nice wide opening for pooring...

the 5/8" hose is just to seal the holes I forgot to weld while I had the tank out. I figure I might use them for something eventually.

This is a shot of the fuel/coolant connections. You can also see the temp sender.


I have a digital gauge showing tank temp, actual coolant temp right off the head before it enter the coolant loop, and a temp right before the veg/diesel valve. Thus, everything is well monitored.

We build Custom Fuel Cells, any shape, any size, square-round-triangle-flat-tall-short. However, we are not competitive with the stock off the shelf tanks produced by unskilled labor in sweat shops.

Every one of our custom tanks are specific to YOUR drawings and specs.

If you need a very specific cell we can and will produce it to very high standards and at a very competitive price

http://www.4secondsflat.com/fuel_tank_index.html

Some of the specific advantages of Red-Kote ® are as follows:

1. The coating is very flexible and does not crack as do some of the others. This gives
the repair a much longer life. Tanks coated in 1984 are still doing well.

2. The polymer was specifically chosen be-cause of its tight adhering qualities. In comparison to some other coatings, Red-Kote ®
does not peel off even when the metal is bent. This protects against loosening of the coating by vibration or denting of the tank.

3. Red-Kote ® is resistant to methanol. In fuels with a high percentage of methanol the coating is bleached, but remains tightly bonded to the metal. In 1985 the federal government allowed 5% methanol in fuel. Standard Oil's ice-guard is 0.5% methanol.
The cheap gas tank anti-freezes are methanol. (The good ones are isopropanol.) Some gas tank liners are dissolved by methanol
into sticky lumps and strings that plug the fuel line. This will not happen with Red-Kote® .

4. Red-Kote ® dries faster than many other sealers saving you time. You can reduce time further by thinning with Methyl Ethyl
Ketone and using two thin coats instead of one thick coat.

5. Red-Kote ® levels very well. You will not get a wide variation in thickness as with some other coatings.

6. Red-Kote ® is thicker and usually requires only one coat as opposed to two coats for many other coatings. Holes up to 1/32nd
may be coated and sealed safely. Rust is sealed in so that it cannot flake off.

7. The bright red color is easily visible to you and the customer. You can be sure you didn't miss a spot and the customer can see
you did something. Some coatings are al-most invisible. The new dye does not leach into gasoline (turning it pink) when the vehicle
is not used for long periods of time.

Packaging: Red-Kote ® is available in one quart metal cans packed 9 per case or in one gallon metal cans packed 1 per case. It is backed by our guarantee and our over 53 years of service to the radiator industry.
http://www.4secondsflat.com/Fuel_Tank_Sealer.html

have a good read
Omar
www.omarsales.com

Very interesting, Omar.

www.fossilfreefuel.com

Can anyone point me towards some information to assist me in designing and fabricating a tank? The dimensions that I have room for are approximately 42x30x16. I intend to use 1/4" steel plate, reinforced at all the seams with angle 3/4 or 1 inch., which will also act as a frame and mounting point. Initially I thought to weld to the frame rails, but then I saw where someone had used all thread and suspended from the floor and then strap to the frame rail; with the idea being if I have to get it down for repair or service I won't have to torch it off the frame rails. My biggest questions are baffles and how to avoid having the end of the Hot Fox pickup be exposed during a sharp turn or acceleration. I've also seen a sump in a tank mentioned, but do not understand the purpose.

Good God Almighty! 1/4 Steel!? That will be armor piercing bullet proof. And weigh as much as your vehicle. Id recommend aluminum and a much lighter gauge. For a tank that size I'd recommend 2 or 3 baffles. As for the sump, you'd want to design that into the tank. That is one of the disadvantages to the hotfox. If you look a few posts up, I believe Omar posted a link to our fuel pickup which i feel for our purpose is much more effective and integrates a baffle into the design. If you are interested; for a nominal fee we can design the tank layouts, CAD drawing etc for you and then you could just follow the plans or take it somewhere and have it fabricated.
~Colin