Omar, your flow diagram is not right. Most filters floww from the outside into the center. The filter media is supported better this way. It will work backwards, but you run the risk of separating the media from the support and losing filtering ability.

Summits filter head number PRM1213 is what I use. $15.95, but I got it on sale for like 12 bucks. It has a 13/16-16 threaded filter mount, but I took it out and put in a 1 inch-12 threaded mount. I have many of the thread adapters. Makes many more filter choices available. Here is a picture of it.

I'm not sure about that filter which omar posted, but my stanadyne which i disected flows similar to the pic posted. the fuel goes first to the bottom of the filter, prolly because the water will settle there easier.
then the clean dry fuel is drawn from the top.

I know most fuel filters and oil filters are fed from the outside, and drawn fromm on the inside.

quote:

Originally posted by Joe_M:
<snip>
Summits filter head number PRM1213 is what I use. $15.95, but I got it on sale for like 12 bucks. It has a 13/16-16 threaded filter mount, but I took it out and put in a 1 inch-12 threaded mount. I have many of the thread adapters. Makes many more filter choices available. Here is a picture of it.

Hi Joe,

What combination of adapters do you have and what is the cost? I couldn't find them on your site.

I am curious about those adapters too . BTW - I just checked 2 fuel filter head I have in my garage . Both feed from the outside .

quote:

Originally posted by Joe_M:
Omar, your flow diagram is not right....

That flow diagram is NOT Omar's. It is directly from Frybids information on the product. They are the one who sales it for Veg. use.

quote:

Originally posted by rkpatt:
... I just checked 2 fuel filter head I have in my garage . Both feed from the outside .

Think we need to clarify what we are looking at so we compare apples to apples.

Just a regular fuel filter may well feed from the outside BUT... fuel filter heads INTENDED to be used on diesels (not one that could be used on either) and are intended to use filters with a water drain/trap on the bottom.... may well be different design all together.

Will be intresting to see if this is the case

quote:

Originally posted by Omar:
by using a coolant wrap on the vormax I get about 10% more heat ...

I wrapped my Vormax Racor R90T filter in aluminum bubble wrap then wrapped it in thermo-tec exhaust wrap. I also wrapped as much of the exposed aluminum on the Vormax too. I'm sure I got a few more *F but don't know how much.

wrapped_vormax_for_more_heat.jpg (53 Kb, 36 downloads)

Ron, rkpat,
That adaptor is the only one I have right now. There are others, but I haven't gotten any yet. I havent had time to put them on the web site, got to do that. Busy improving my titration kit. I'm making a video of a titration with the equipment in the kit, sure takes a lot of time to do stuff like this! The adaptors are 5 bucks plus shipping. The Summit filter head flows from outside in. HTH
George, I didn't know that about the filter diagram. Moving again?! Hope things go smoothly for you.

you can use a coolant wrap on your wvo filter and insulate your heat Exchanger with foam ...
good luck
Omar
www.omarsales.com

Putting the filter inside of the heated SVO tank works out pretty well,

The picture shown is a SVO tank made out of a big Ammo Can. As you can see everything is attached to the cover.

August-2006_013.jpg (1,996 Kb, 112 downloads) Filter in Heated SVO tank

That tank realy scares me.

Copper heat exchanger
Copper exposed to the air
Coolant connections inside of the tank
Coolant connections made with worm drive hose clamps
Filter not heated unless the tank is full.

quote:

Originally posted by Ron Schroeder:
That tank realy scares me.

Copper heat exchanger
Copper exposed to the air
Coolant connections inside of the tank
Coolant connections made with worm drive hose clamps
Filter not heated unless the tank is full.

ya cheaper is not always better. i just saved up and sprung for a HotFox

found this on ebay
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-in-1-Heat-Exchanger-Fu...QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Omar
www.omarsales.com

http://www.prime-loc.com/continuous_dual_filtration.php

could use a coolant wrap to heat ???
have a good read
Omar
www.omarsales.com

I was about to start building one of the setups using a center water heated spike until it was pointer out that most filters don't physically support the filter medium for the reverse flow (fluid flowing from the center to the outside). I have sence cut open a few verious filters including the stock fuel filter for my 92 Dodge Cummins, none of them have had ANY support around the outside side of the paper filter element, they DO have planty of support on the inside side of the paper. I suspect that with a reverse flow it would not take much pressure to push the pleated paper filter medium away from the center perferated steel support and allow leaks, that is my concern anyway, especially since I intend to use my filters til it takes 80 or so pounds of pressure to force road-speed quantities of oil through them. I will put a 50-60 pound switch in the input side of the filter to turn on a dash indicator light to indicate when it is time to change the filter due to plugging but I want to be able to continue driving til I get someplace reasonable to actually make the change.

SO - re-thinking the whole idea, I now am intending to build a filter unit that uses standard spin-on hydraulic filters and add a easily removable water jacket around the entire filter such that the water comes in direct contact with the outside surface of the hydraulic filter.

The idea is to use a piece of flat 1/2 inch thick aluminum plate, tap a center hole for a standard 3/4 X 16 straight thread (or whatever threaded mount your chosen filters use) to accept a normal screw-on filter, this will be the outlet from the filter, drill another hole next to this as the fluid inlet to the filter. Then drill water inlet and outlet holes so they fall outside the spin-on filter canister but inside of a sheetmetal canister that is made from the lower section of an old fire extinguisher bottle (make it as long as you want to accomodate long or short filters, maybe even make one for each). these old 7-10 pound powder-type fire extinguishers show up at my local salvage yard regularly, they are usually 70-90 thousandths thick steel and big enough in diameter to allow for a 3/8 to 5/8 water layer around a normal spin-on element. I will machine an 1/8 inch wide by 1/4 inch deep groove on the underside of the aluminum plate that will accept an 1/8 inch round "O" ring and be deep enough to allow the bottom canister to seat an 1/8 inch down into the groove. I will use a couple small over-center type lathing assemblies to hold the canister to the bottom of the flat plate. This allows easy removal of the canister to change out the filter, and the water in the canister will mostly stay contained as it is lowered away from the filter.

I will add ball valves to both the inlet and outlet water lines at the top of the aluminum plate. by closing both valves prior to dropping the water jacket canister it should hold the loss of antifreeze down to only a couple of cups lost for each dropping of the water jacket.

Now to actually build it. been considering how to build a water heated filter for as couple years now, this idea looks like the one most likely to accomplish my objectives. I have used household water filters for veg filters on the road but they make a nasty MESS when changing the filter cartridge, I want to use a spin-on element as it containes the oil long enough to drop the filter into a can, or even a sealable plastic bag, without the mess. I also want the hot water to directly contact the outside of the entire surface of the filter for maximum heating. The fire extinguishers have flat bottoms so the water jacket can simply be dropped from around the filter and set aside, it will stand on its flat bottom without any excess loss of antifreeze.

quote:

Originally posted by Tim c cook:
SO - re-thinking the whole idea, I now am intending to build a filter unit that uses standard spin-on hydraulic filters and add a easily removable water jacket around the entire filter such that the water comes in direct contact with the outside surface of the hydraulic filter.

The idea is to use a piece of flat 1/2 inch thick aluminum plate, tap a center hole for a standard 3/4 X 16 straight thread (or whatever threaded mount your chosen filters use) to accept a normal screw-on filter, this will be the outlet from the filter, drill another hole next to this as the fluid inlet to the filter. Then drill water inlet and outlet holes so they fall outside the spin-on filter canister but inside of a sheetmetal canister that is made from the lower section of an old fire extinguisher bottle (make it as long as you want to accomodate long or short filters, maybe even make one for each). these old 7-10 pound powder-type fire extinguishers show up at my local salvage yard regularly, they are usually 70-90 thousandths thick steel and big enough in diameter to allow for a 3/8 to 5/8 water layer around a normal spin-on element. I will machine an 1/8 inch wide by 1/4 inch deep groove on the underside of the aluminum plate that will accept an 1/8 inch round "O" ring and be deep enough to allow the bottom canister to seat an 1/8 inch down into the groove. I will use a couple small over-center type lathing assemblies to hold the canister to the bottom of the flat plate. This allows easy removal of the canister to change out the filter, and the water in the canister will mostly stay contained as it is lowered away from the filter.

filter and set aside, it will stand on its flat bottom without any excess loss of antifreeze.

Tim I read this and thought 'great idea, good thinking, I want one'. Then I thought it through for my installation. My filter works under vacuum, my coolant is under pressure, most spin on filters I have used leak a little after a little while and need to be retightened. Murphy's law would surely dictate that the fuel vacuum will draw in coolant when this inevitable leak occurred Will stick with the copper pipe coil around filter for now tho I know it doesnt contact the filter as well as it should and is probably only half as good as it should be. Yours should work OK if fuel is always under pressure, ie greater than coolant pressure. Is it?
Johnno

well to heat my fule filter , ( a whole house water filter) i just tightly wraped it in 8 feet of 3/8 copper pipe that is connected to the heater core lines.,and surounded by insulation so the heat is traped and can only go into the filter housing, the set up cost less than $50 at home depot for the filter housing and the copper pipe, i used copper because it tranfers heat very quickly. the filters are 2 for 5 dollars for the 10 to 15 micron (which i use)or 2 for 10 for the 1 micron,
hope that hepled

quote:

the filters are 2 for 5 dollars for the 10 to 15 micron (which i use)

10 to 15 micron string wound filters are nominal. You will want to go much finer than that with your pre filtering. Check a local plumbing supply store for the string wound filters, you should be able to get a better price on them. I also suggest anyone using these filters to read Tim c cook's thread on reinforcing and capping the ends.

Hi Tim,

The biggest problem with your water jacket idea is when the filter gasket on the oil filter fails or loosens, you will get coolant in your fuel and probably ruin your engine.

HI guys I'm looking for a heated filter that can go to 2 microns . Any ideas. So far I can see some that go to 5 but I want to make sure no bad stuff gets into my common rail IP.