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Here is the heated filter we've designed the first has the standard racor element in it that the vormax uses, the second has a donaldson replacement element. We are in the process of designing a cartdrige filter and more sizes of this unit...
Colin
 
Location: PA | Registered: 24 October 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Colin
what kinda wvo temp are you getting with your filter set up ? looks like a great set up! Have you named it yet? Have you got one for a VW Rabbit?
Omar
 
Location: Kirkland | Registered: 10 January 2003Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by Omar:
I found the uk heated filter online while I was working on my Ebay store ... I know a few folks that are working on the idea ... nothing on the market yet for the public ... untill then I use a coolant wrap to keep the WVO veg warm
Omar
www.omarsales.com

PS
Tom how is your heated filter idea is it working yet?

Did the uk folks say what the problem was with their heated filter unit?


I cant remember---it was the one welder was praising, not the Purflux. On my project, still working on it--it is a slow go since I am doing this part time and farming out the work.
 
Registered: 16 August 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Hey there Drewlock,

Sorry for the delay. I did some research today about the 500 FG that I have. The FG is the road model and the MA is the Marine application. The only difference besides the price is a marine cirtification posted on the filter and a heat sheild that is located on the housing somewhere. The MA is a little more expensive as well.

MY PRICE QUOTES FOR THE WHOLE 500FG SET-UP WHERE WRONG!!!

The filter housing is $125 and the hot plate that is located INSIDE the filter is an aditional $80. There is a thermistat-like device on the plate that automatically turns on the plate at temps below 45 degrees (I think) and shuts off at 80 degrees. Pretty fancy little set up.

Whole set up $205... about. Did I mention the Centerfuge?

<<<Topher>>>
 
Location: New Orleans and Massachusetts | Registered: 19 July 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Patcarr,

The hotplate inside the filter is heated with electricity.

Topher
 
Location: New Orleans and Massachusetts | Registered: 19 July 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Tom, I know you said you're not sure, but do you know if the problem is with the stainless coolant tube or something else? I just really like the idea of heating the core, since that's where the work happens.
 
Registered: 26 September 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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welder,
The concern that I would have with heating the core with a heat stick of some sort inside the filter is that the heat stick will build up gunk on it that will flake off so you would need another filter after this. I have a heat stick in my Vo tank and the amount of slimy baked on stuff flaking off is amazing. It wouldn't be as bad in the filter as it would be totally submerged at all times, however even the bottom of my heat stick (always submerged) had a build up beginning when I pulled it out of the tank after around 40,000 miles. The top of the heat stick (out of oil more) was scary looking with the baked on crap


86 F250 veggie since May 2005 25,000 miles and counting

78 Benz 300D converted Feb 2006 2,500 miles and no longer counting

92 F250 converted on May 2,2005 14
000 miles and counting

81 rabbitt
84 benz 300d
 
Location: New York (south of Buffalo) | Registered: 02 May 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Pizzaman,

I like your filter. How much did it cost you?


Two tank system on an '89 F250
Working on an 81 Chevy Chevette
Attempting to resurrect a rusted out 85 Ford Tempo
 
Location: Alaska | Registered: 25 April 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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quote:


That looks like a regular VW heat exchanger but what is that adapter thing screwed on top of it?
Also, what thread does it use... 3/4" both ends of the exchanger?
 
Registered: 21 September 2006Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Pizzaman thanks for the warning. I don't think it will be a significant problem though since it is inside a filter. That's what a filter is for, removing unwanted particles from our fuel. I think that most filters have fuel moving from inside out, through the filter media. That's why I think that having a heat source inside the core would be most efficient. I'm working on a design in my head right now. I'll run it past my tech buddy at work (optimil.com).
 
Registered: 26 September 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Welder,
The problem is the fact that the center core is where the oil exits to the ip, therefore if I understand it correctly the heat stick would be on the exit of the filter. I could be misunderstanding the concept, I just wanted to run it by you.


86 F250 veggie since May 2005 25,000 miles and counting

78 Benz 300D converted Feb 2006 2,500 miles and no longer counting

92 F250 converted on May 2,2005 14
000 miles and counting

81 rabbitt
84 benz 300d
 
Location: New York (south of Buffalo) | Registered: 02 May 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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wvoalaska,
The cost is the big issue, I am trying to find someone to build it cheaper but currently it costs about $300.00 to have this guy build it with the port for the 300 watt electric heating element in the bottom and the temp switch port to run the element. (features not shown in the above post) I can't remember off the top of my head the cost without the electric heat.


86 F250 veggie since May 2005 25,000 miles and counting

78 Benz 300D converted Feb 2006 2,500 miles and no longer counting

92 F250 converted on May 2,2005 14
000 miles and counting

81 rabbitt
84 benz 300d
 
Location: New York (south of Buffalo) | Registered: 02 May 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Oh my God!!! You're right!!! Damn I hate being wrong!!!

Yeah your right, I just checked the port plumbing on a Baldwin. Back to the drawing board.


Is the flow pattern the same on all filters? Outside to inside that is.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: welder,
 
Registered: 26 September 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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You can see my heated filter at www.frytech.blogspot.com . It only heats the housing and the oil is already warm before it gets to it. I was inspired by some pictures last year where a guy made a metal box with a coil in it and a filter stuck in the top.
 
Location: Cincinnatus, NY | Registered: 12 August 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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welder,
I wouldn't want to say ALL filters have that flow pattern, but all that I have seen do. I don't know if you could run it backwards or not, never looked into it


86 F250 veggie since May 2005 25,000 miles and counting

78 Benz 300D converted Feb 2006 2,500 miles and no longer counting

92 F250 converted on May 2,2005 14
000 miles and counting

81 rabbitt
84 benz 300d
 
Location: New York (south of Buffalo) | Registered: 02 May 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Pizzaman, you've got me curious. I'm going to check the flow direction on other filter makes/models.

By the way, thanks for the correction, you probably saved me some grief.
 
Registered: 26 September 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Pizzaman, I just saw your filter. Very nice! You say the guy builds them for $300? Got his name and phone#?
 
Registered: 26 September 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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While filters normally flow from outside to inside, (allowing for more contaminants to be stored outside of the filter media) there is no major impediment to reversing the flow.

The SS spear should not accumulate any accretions as it is non-reactive with the oil and it is only being heated to coolant temperatures. Thus it is unlikely that it will cause any non-filtered contaminants to flow to the IP.

I have another heated fuel filter, which I am using in my latest 300D conversion.

The aluminum piece is drilled for coolant passages and is turned to mate with the filter (on top) and the sediment bowl (below) using the standard gaskets, supplied with the filters. It cost me Au$150. It heats the oil below and inside the filter, and the thermal circulation spreads the heat thru the filter.
 
Location: Perth W.Australia | Registered: 10 August 2001Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by kell:
quote:


That looks like a regular VW heat exchanger but what is that adapter thing screwed on top of it?
Also, what thread does it use... 3/4" both ends of the exchanger?




Then still the adapter case is missing. It connects all construction units. It is a simple turned part. No problem for someone, which can deal with a centre lathe. In the design a federation is to be seen, which makes the oil cooler and the cover a firmly connected unit. The manufacturing is however clearly more complex and is hardly worth m.E.
I use so a flat nut/mother, and for the threads teflon band.
If everything is close, one has peace.

. Here is a bemasste design (without guarantee) >>>>>

here is what Eckes web site has to say about the fitting you have to make ... good luck
Omar
www.omarsales.com
 
Location: Kirkland | Registered: 10 January 2003Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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I make those things all the time. We use many different kinds of oil coolers that mount between the engine and the filter. That was what I was referring to in my earlier post on this thread. Instead of putting it on a remote filter head, just leave it on the engine, run the WVO through the side where coolant would go, and use the hot engine oil to heat the WVO. Quicker warm up and higher temp than coolant. Smile


Blessings. Joe 1999 Chevy Suburban 6.5L TD 1987 Mercedes 300TD and 1986 Chevy Cube van 6.2L.
WWW.RillaBioFuels.com
WWW.RillaBioFuels.com
 
Location: Sterling Hts. Michigan USA | Registered: 18 October 2001Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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