http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8o52BYTEau4

This is a Small block Chev Oil pump I modified for collecting and transferring Waste vegetable oil.
I blocked off the original inlet and outlet ports ( too small) and cut holes in the pump housing using a drill and rotary file to fit 1" Gal water pip elbows which I then MIG welded in.

The motor is a 24V, 300W, 2750 RPM electric scooter motor. The coupling is a lovejoy 050 with a 8mm jaw for the Motor and a 1/2" jaw for the pump which had to be shimmed slightly with a couple of layers of Coke can for a snug fit. The Spider is the standard material. After more than 12 month of use and pumping more than 20K L of oil, everything is still in perfect condition.

The pump and Motor are welded to the steel mount so they don't move and there is nothing to come loose. The pump and motor are slightly misaligned. This was done on purpose as I found by welding on the pump and then running it, with the motor slightly offset the pump ran quieter and smoother. I am guessing this is because of the torque the motor applies to the gears is not ideal when everything is precisely aligned.

The Pump will move fats so thick they extrude out the hose and will hold their shape.
The hoses used are a little less than 1" and I made up a wand out of 1" plastic pipe for vacuming up the oil from drums. There is a piece of clear hose near the elbow on the wand so I can see if I am getting too much fat or water through. There are no screens on the pickup and I have only jammed the pump once or twice. Because the motor is DC, it is easy to reverse the connections and unjam the pump and spit the debris out.
Pieces of burnt chip etc are simply crunched through and I have found other things such as chicken bones in my settling tanks the Pump has crunched through without me even knowing.

As seen in the Video, The motor can run at 24 or 12 V. it is much quieter ( almost silent) at 12 V and takes longer to heat up when pumping large amounts of oil or using long runs of small hose.
The pump self primes quickly and is capable of large lift and head heights.
Because it is a positive displacement pump, the flow cannot be stopped with valves, the motor itself has to be stopped in order to prevent blowing out hoses or stalling and burning out the motor.

I have the same pump coupled up to a 240V motor for using around home and transferring oil between

settling tanks.

found this video


have fun
Omar
www.omarsales.com

Omar: I have the gas-engine oil pump set-up connected to a 110v motor and have used it primarily for diesel transfer- it always seems to jam when I try to pump WVO. Could you show some close-ups of the drilling/welding you did to modify this pump? I am sure that by having larger ports this will solve this problem. Thanks!

You don't miss much Omar.
I only uploaded that that Vid a few days ago!

DT,
I simply drilled holes in the side of the pump then opened them out with a rotary file to suit the 1" gal fittings I welded on. The original ports are too small for the flow we want. My first pump I did in 3/4 fittings and it is only slightly slower than this one so 1" is about right IMHO. There are a couple of relatively flat and open spots on the sides of the pump right in front of where the gears mesh. That's where I put the fittings and they have a completely un-interrupted passage to the gears.I just welded up the original ports in the pump housing and cut the mounting off with a grinder and filled the original exit port which is in the back plate. I filled it with weld but you can also do it with epoxy glue.

You will also need to seal the back plate on the housing to stop seepage. I don't know if there was a gasket there originally ( don't think so) but the S/H pumps I got didn't have any. Again you can use a thin smear of epoxy glue or silicone. I recommend you smear it thinly then wait for it to cook off a bit before mating the surfaces and remember, you are only sealing a gap microns, if that, wide so don't go using a bead of stuff that is going to squish into the housing and glue the gears.

I have seen people use epoxy to attach the fittings to their pumps but I personally think this is a disaster waiting to happen. I use my pump for collecting and with everything being welded I don't have to worry about knocks and bumps breaking anything loose. If you can't weld the fittings on yourself, it would be a wise investment to spend a few bux and take it somewhere that can do it properly for you. Make sure you take the gears out when you weld the pump and put something inside the casing to block off the back side of the holes and use plenty of anti Splatter. Any bits of stray weld or flux will jam the gears which have quite tight tolerances and it can be a real bugger to get any splatter out later. ( Ask me how I know! )

You don't say what rating your 110V motor is. I would recommend at least 1/2 Hp but have one of these pumps being driven by a 1/4 Hp motor but it does labour a bit and heats up quickly. I wouldn't think a stock pump should jam your motor but without knowing the details of it, anything is possible.
You need a slow speed ( up to 2500 RPM) industrial size motor. Something from a washing machine or vacuum cleaner may not have the torque you need even if they have the power but are too high speed.

Here are pictures of one of the many I have built.
Original:

Disassembled:

Mods before welding:


You're correct Omar, there are no gaskets on the plate. I turned down the end of the pipe fittings with a step that is the thickness of the housing, then milled a hole in the side that is that size. the fittings go into the holes and stop at that depth. I then TIG welded them in place. You can see where I cut off the part that bolts to the block and put a pipe plug in the hole. suction side is where the pick up tube is pressed into the plate. I drilled the plate to the same ID as 3/4 inch pipe and welded in the pipe nipple. Cool, Huh?

If you look closely at a Redline pump, you will see that it is a SBC pump with out the extensive mods that Omar and I (as well as others on this forum) have done.

Joe_M

What small block chevy is the pump you show from?

Is that from a V6 it is different than the V8 version.

Ken

Flyboyd8
Yes, it is from a V6 (60 degree). The only difference is that the drive is an 8mm hex instead of a slotted drive. The oil pump on the 6.2 and 6.5 diesels are also 8mm hex drive. taller gears on those as well.

Joe m ,

Thank you for the info, I thought it was from a V6 and I did notice the hex drive. Are these gears the same as the standard volume SBC pumps. Sounds like the 6.2 and 6.5 pumps may be similar to the HV SBC.

The mount on the V6 pump is considerably different than the True SBC version. There is much less cast to carry the shaft. On all three of the modified SBC pumps I have, I have put seals on the drive shaft.

Ken

Flyboyd8 - Please explain (+pics if you have any) how you put seals on the driveshaft of the SBC pumps . - Thanks

quote:

The mount on the V6 pump is considerably different than the True SBC version. There is much less cast to carry the shaft. On all three of the modified SBC pumps I have, I have put seals on the drive shaft.

quote:

Flyboyd8

Here are some photos, these have all been posted in a prior SBC thread here.




This is a standard pump you can see I trimmed a lot of material off. I then put a sleeve on the casting and that is how I hold/ installed the seal. the pipes are 1/2"



This is a standard Volume pump notice the seal, this is a pump I use to transfer clean oil. 3/8 pipe fittings first pump I did.



Before and After. I also have a third pump that I don't have photos of, it is like the Standard V but is HV and the base is cut the same as the the first 2 photos. Cut to do away with weight and the pressure relief. I made a mandrel from a pump drve shaft so I can turn the pump housing in my lathe and that is how I fit the sleeve.



My HV pump has moved over 10,000 gallons fo oil in the last 2 years. I run it with a Stihl 027 gas powered drill. I can empty a 55 gal. drum in 4 minutes

Floyboyd8 - I couldn't find that seal part# reference in a quick search of the previous threads . I would appreciate it if you state the part # for it .

What speed is is that 027 Stihl drill running at when you are operating the pump ?

- Thanks

This message has been edited. Last edited by: rkpatt,

Other peoples pumps must leak a Hell of a lot more than mine because I wouldn't even get half a teaspoon of oil come out when I pump 500L!

I get far more drips no matter how careful I am just putting the hoses in and out of the cubees when I fill them than ever comes out my pump. Definitely not enough seepage out of my pumps to justify doing anything about it.

quote:

I run it with a Stihl 027 gas powered drill. I can empty a 55 gal. drum in 4 minutes

If you cut the housing on the other side of the pump and put another fitting there and bypassed the original Pickup port on the back cover of the pump, you could probably do it in 2 Minutes.
That port is larger than the discharge port but still restricted to under half an inch internally. For max flow, the larger the ports the better and the less work the motor has to do. In my experience, 1" hose is optimal and also conveniently the most easy to get and cheapest size flexible type hose here.

Just re reading what has been posted, I note that the pipe sizes being used are only 3/8 and 1/2" where as I'm using a min 3/4 and now 1". Perhaps the easier flow with the larger hose sizes is causing less internal back pressure in my pumps and that's the reason they appear to leak so little in comparison to other designs?

I don't know how much oil is coming out of other peoples pumps at the shaft but I take it that the volumes is significant enough to warrant going to the trouble of trying to seal them.
Not a concern I have ever had thankfully!

Mine don't leak much either when there is little restriction/pressure on the output (eg: as a collection pump) . I would like eliminate the leaking when they are used in pressure applications (eg: pushing through a filter , powering a pressure driven CF ) .

quote:

DCS
Member

Posted 10 November 2009 09:16 PM Hide Post
Other peoples pumps must leak a Hell of a lot more than mine because I wouldn't even get half a teaspoon of oil come out when I pump 500L!--snip--

This message has been edited. Last edited by: rkpatt,

quote:

Originally posted by DCS:
Other peoples pumps must leak a Hell of a lot more than mine because I wouldn't even get half a teaspoon of oil come out when I pump 500L!



[QUOTE] I run it with a Stihl 027 gas powered drill. I can empty a 55 gal. drum in 4 minutes

""re reading what has been posted, I note that the pipe sizes being used are only 3/8 and 1/2" where as I'm using a min 3/4 and now 1". Perhaps the easier flow with the larger hose sizes is causing less internal back pressure in my pumps and that's the reason they appear to leak so little in comparison to other designs? """



The main pump that I use, the HV has 3/4 pipe fitting, I have no photos of it. All the openings are cut to the size of the pipe.


RK, look up the Stihl, (OOPS, It's not the 027 but a BT 45, my mistake ) it is the only gas powered drill that has 2 forward speeds and a reverse, that I am aware of. 2nd is 2100 rpms. WOT This is the equivalent of a SBC motor running at 4200 rpms, oil moves. Even at 20* F the Stihl will pump oil well it moves applesauce oil nicely. I bought 2 Stihls off the anti gun eBay. I liked the first one so well I got a second for a spare. Havn't needed the spare.

The seal is a, CR Service 4912 , The sleeve is a piece of tubing I bored to the correct inside diameter to hold the seal. this is then pressed on to the cast housing.

I only use a hose on the exit side of the pumps 20' of 3/4 ID gas discharge hose with he ends reset to get rid of the restrictive springs.. the intake is a steel tube to dip the drums with 3/4"+ ID tubing from salvaged bed frame.

Ken

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Flyboyd8,

Hi DCS,

Good work……….
For large scale high speed pumping of nasty sludge a vacuum system is hard to beat but I have to admit your modified chicken bone eating gear pump is quite impressive. And small enough to take to the drum, simple and effective if you are not trying to totally empty a drum of food sludge.

I have a 3” port stainless jabsco lobe pump off a milk truck Im tempted to see if it will work at the wrong end of 20m of hose. I would be a bit concerned about the rocks, broken glass, lighters and tea towels that we regularly find in our drums in some places

Will you set up tolerate priming and drawing on longer suction hoses? This was to

It you are interested there are photos of my Vac set up on my website www.blackboxproductions.com.au

Tim

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors...?hash=item255719ceae

ebay sale $49

have a good read
Omar
www.omarsales.com

quote:

Originally posted by Omar:
ebay sale $49

have a good read
Omar
www.omarsales.com

Pitty it only uses 1/2" ports.
That would account for only pumping 5 gal a minute instead of 20.
Maybe the seller could make a " custom Hi-flo" version with 1" ports tapped ( and welded) both sides of the casing so the pump could realise it's full potential?

quote:

Originally posted by Tim AU:
Hi DCS,

Good work……….
For large scale high speed pumping of nasty sludge a vacuum system is hard to beat but I have to admit your modified chicken bone eating gear pump is quite impressive. And small enough to take to the drum, simple and effective if you are not trying to totally empty a drum of food sludge.

Hi Tim,

I do clean out my drums about once a year from the suppliers and rarely have any trouble. I put a coarse strainer on the pickup and the pump will chew through more than I would reasonably expect and anything that is left is easy to get with a long handled small metal shovel like for a fire place. As far as fats go, I reckon you could pull cold margarine if you were so inclined with the SBC pump.

I did look at Vac setups and for my needs they are both impractical and would be too heavy and expensive. I would have to have a trailer for a vac tank and for many of my pickups that would be very difficult and for others, basically impossible. I often wonder how the collectors get their trucks into some of the nearby places but then I realise they aren't articulated and also have some Loooong hoses as well.

I couldn't get a 200L capacity tank in the boot of the Merc like I can Cubees and when I go out with a friend and we pump into an IBC in the back of his ute, a vac tank that big would be plenty heavy and again, we couldn't get that much capacity in the back of his twin cab truck.
While I can see the attraction suckers have, a pump by far best suits my personal needs.

quote:

I have a 3” port stainless jabsco lobe pump off a milk truck Im tempted to see if it will work at the wrong end of 20m of hose. I would be a bit concerned about the rocks, broken glass, lighters and tea towels that we regularly find in our drums in some places

Just put a strainer pickup on the end like they use for water pumps. I have one here in 3" I got with my Chinese Diesel water pump and it would be fine enough to let plenty of oil in while still keeping out the stuff you don't want.
I think they would be easily available at pump shops and I have seen them at ag supply's and co-ops.

quote:

Will you set up tolerate priming and drawing on longer suction hoses? This was to

So far the longest hose I have primed the pump through is 20M of 22mm. It takes 30 sec but it doesn't have any trouble doing it, just takes longer to get the grater volume of air out.
As long as the head height wasn't too significant, I couldn't see why it wouldn't prime though 100M if you gave it time. 10M run is equivalent to 1m head ( according to what I have seen on pump sites) and I know this pump would easy lift 10M.
The only problem I could see with longer runs is that you would want good hose so the pump didn't collapse the hose. I forgot to turn on a valve the other day on the draw side and the pump sucked the convoluted hose flat as a button.

I did have problem on a 20M run once where I couldn't prime the pump and discovered I had a small hole in the suction side hose. I reversed the pump and filled the line with the oil I had in the tank already then when the line was full, I pumped it back and it worked fine. It was a bit down on speed due to the air leak but I pumped the 600L of oil out the tank with no trouble at all.