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PA090146.JPG (756 Kb, 119 downloads) heat exchanger

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PA090147.JPG (735 Kb, 84 downloads) heat exchanger

quote:

Originally posted by Omar:
http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r230/twanohtom/OM617Acutaway.jpg
found this post by rabbit man may help
Omar

Bigger version of same image can be found at Pirate4x4- Engine Cutaways for OM 110s 123s and 617s Scroll down to last two links on this page. The AA version is the humongo version. Put it up on the wall at of your school's shop as a poster. Yeah its that big.

Hi Guy's
My .02 cents is that you don't really need all the heat that the heated filter and a FPHE provides before the injection pump. I would also suggest an injector line heater to make sure the Veg is hot when it goes into the injectors. If you want to make the heater yourself here's the info....

use 30" of .035 316 SS for a resistor and fiberglass insulation (part # 8819K41) and silicone tape (#7643A79) from mc master Make sure to coat the insulation (ends and exposed ares only) with high temp silicone gasket maker and let dry before cutting the insulation.

There's also some pics on my site...

I would tend to agree with fatty wagon..except that you are in Wisconsin. Living in a neighboring state I know that you will need both of these AND possibly line heaters as well for an optimum conversion adaptable to your climate. For a warmer climate this may be debatable...but IMO ..not in WI.

Even for the very robust MB inline IP it is desireable to have VO at a temp of at least 120°F prior to the IP. After the IP the closer to 250°F (or possibly hotter) you can get VO prior to the injectors the better. IMO.

Some folks have been using 3 way valves at the Heat Exchanger to turn it off in warmer weather (most the guys that are running biodiesel in cold weather)… so you may want to think about adding the 3 way valves to by pass the Heat Exchanger in warmer weather. You should also think about mounting the Heat Exchanger vertical it will help with getting the air out of the system and settle junk to the bottom of the HE … just a thought

What type of clear hose is that in the Heat Exchanger photo? You may want to use a sight glass instead of the clear hose …

Omar


http://www.benjaminellis.net/benjaminellisdotnet/projects/WVO/TDI.htm
you may want to look at this install by Ben

Hey this is matt, we plan to use a thicker walled hose in the veggie tank to connect the in tank heat exchanger to the fittings tht go through the tank. We thought of maybe useing(3/4"ID)radiator hose,the red stuff. Will that stand up to warm veggie oil for a long time?

Hi Matt,
Actually I'd suggest that you not use hose in the tank but I lots of folks do and it works for them...
over time the veg will soften the rubber heater hose... I'd suggest using a better grade hose... like hydraulic return hose for inside the tank...

No it will not.
You should avoid any connections that provide increased possibilty of coolant leakage into the fuel tank. Ieally connections are all outside the tenk so leaking coolant cannnot end up in the fuel. You do not need a large id fuelline unless you do not plan to heat it. In which case it will not matter how large the id is when temperatures decrease. I suggest using regular fuel line bundled with coolant line..and insulated with foam pipe sheathing.

quote:

Originally posted by Oostburg High School:
Hey this is matt, we plan to use a thicker walled hose in the veggie tank to connect the in tank heat exchanger to the fittings tht go through the tank. We thought of maybe useing(3/4"ID)radiator hose,the red stuff. Will that stand up to warm veggie oil for a long time?

look at the mcmaster web site for fittings to attatch your HE in the tank ...
http://www.mcmaster.com/

buy a AAA card for your road test O

Hi everyone, I hope everyone had a great christmas and a good new year, I know everyone here has,but now were all back and ready to get down and dirty on our car,so we'll be posting, thanks again everyone.

Ok .... you should have it done right?

Did you road test it yet?

Did you shoot the video yet?



Omar
www.omarsales.com

Hey everyone, Here at our school we have been going a new lesson on energy and are coming in to work on the car as well. We are extremely close to finishing all the internel hard things done. The tanks are getting finished and the fabricating is going along very well. I took a few pics of a few of are situations(Diesel tank,front of car, and our veggie tank), but I also took a short 2min video of use working live, check it out.

I hope to make small videos of things that you all want to see, so if u want to see anything on the car, let me know, and I'll get you the video, ok.

Other then that we'll keep you updated, or you guys can check out our myspace and read up on our blogs.

Hey everyone, heres that quick walk through video of a day of work I promised you.....

Ouick Walk Through Live

Done yet??? Road test data? maybe a story or two about your WVO road test? let us know
Omar
www.omarsales.com

Hey everyone, how are you all doing, good I hope. Our car is comign along well and we're almost done but, we have a question, does anyone know how the valves are supposed to be positioned in order to get the car to default to Diesel when its shut off?

We havn't started the car yet, but were hopeing to get it strated and test drive it before srping break(March 26)Im trying to post more videos but these computers her are having a hard time, but I will post them when I can.

Don't put the valves under the car. Position them as close to the injection pump as possible.

do you have a sight glass and temp gauge before the IP?? this will help you to get the air out of the system ... or you can at least see if there is air in your system...

use a sight glass that has meatal hose fittings... do not us the plastic screw in type they will crack (I ran one for about 5k before the plastic ends cracked in half)

http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?Ntt=fuel+filt...target=egnsearch.asp

You can buy the sight glass here or Autozone has them for about $10.

do not over tighten the glass itself it can crack .. (I have done that too) however make sure it is not leaking air some times they vibrate loose just enought for a small leak so check for drips ...

good luck Omar
www.omarsales.com
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http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?Ntt=fuel+filt...target=egnsearch.asp

SPE-2228

part number
SPE-2228 Spectre Pro-Plumbing Fuel Filters
3/ 8 in. Hose Barb Inlet/ Outlet, Each
Today $9.95

Do you have a lift pump back at the stock tank?? you should install one ... it will help clear the air out of your system and help your IP out...

are you looping the return WVO?

Master E8012 from Autozone is one you can use



NAPA #P74017.

good tread about wvo lift pumps
http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/15960555...261061971#5261061971

post your video soon
Omar
www.omarsales.com