series 8 SV08-33 V 6T 12V ER... so SV08-33-V-6T-12V-ER

SV08 - is alum cavity
-33 - is the valve shaft
V - is the viton seals.. can get online
6T - port 3/8 fittings
12V - 12 volts
ER - lead wires/connector.. 18G wires w. connector

series 10 SV10-31 V 8T (or 6T) 12V ER.. so SV10-31-V-8t-12V-ER..

drilling the ports to .315 is the trick.. a good distributor will do it for you! or if you have the skills one can do it.. but don't screw up and yell at me..

as for a series 12.. now that's just not right, way to big, not even overkill - but way passed that.. if you wish to see how something will look - and how it will fit - just make a wooden version of it it start puting it in the engine room/etc..

Diesel&Coffee, Thank You!, I took your advice and scoped out and ordered (2) series 10 hydraforce valves (SV10-31M-6T-V-12-ER). As you mentioned, price varies quite a bit. I found a company that for only $96.77 per valve + shipping will included the following:
- Vitron seals
- manual override
- e-coil with connector
- ports adapted to NPT
- body slotted(not drilled)
After talking to one of their Engineers, he suggested slotting the body instead of drilling. The reasons being it gets too close to the seals and could leak, plus voids the warranty. He ran some modeling and calculated that by slotting the body you gain over 65% more area than drilling(.315)and 126% more area than a stock setup. The way I understand it, the more area the more gpm at the same or lower pressure. The only draw back is delivery is four weeks out, but out of the 5 dealers I called for stock valves the delivery time was the same. I am not an expert on valves or fluid flow, I am just trying to pass on information as accurate as I can, so don't yell too loud if something doesn't work (hey I spent $194.00 of my money). I was very impressed with the sales man and engineer, they were professional and returned my calls and questions very promptly especially when your only talking about modifing two valves for a sale of $164.00. Only, if you are serious about purchasing these valves contact Matt(sales man) at 952-259-4175. The company is:
Jem Technical Marketing
2250 Daniels St.
Long Lake, MN 55356

www.jemtechnical.com

I hope this helps out and I will report on my results in four + weeks.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: InframanII,

thank you for the valve info! can you shoot some photo's and post them for us... let us know how your project goes O

InframanII .. did you ever get your valves?

Hello,
Sorry it took so long to get back to you, I have been on the road. Yes I have received my valves and they look great! Unfortunately, I have not had a chance to install them or the rest of the system yet. I am hoping to get them installed within the next three weeks before the snow flies(high 30's in the mornings now).
Feel free to contact me with any questions. I really think the valves will work well especially since they have a 5 year warranty on everything except for the seals (a couple of $ and a few minutes to change).
Take care
IRmanII

diesel&coffee: You are awesome! I appreciate your research with this, I haven't had enough time to dig up other valves but this is great!

Time for a bunch of questions:
(to clarify first, I have a '97 dodge ram 2500 12 valve cummins, extended cab, long bed, so it's big, and need the good flow)

Why can't I use the SV10-33, it just doesn't have the good flow rate? Does the SV10-31 eliminate the need for drilling them out since they have a good flow rate of 6 gpm?

Why do you say it only has like 2 gpm flow with a series 10 drilled?

Have you or anyone else used these for our application, do they hold up to the VO (with viton of course), any other problems that anyone experienced?

Does that warranty get void using VO?

sorry, just brainstorming, I'm thinking I will definitely be going with these valves once I work out and decide which ones I'm getting.

Thanks so much in advance dc, these look sweet, and wouldn't have to buy them from frybrid!

In the sv10 catalog under cartridge cavities theres a VC-T001 with a larger orifice .335 inch. What's the difference between this valve and the sv10-31 that you had to have it slotted to increase the orifice?Does anyone know?Thanks.

This is what I'm driving at too. Why is there any need to drill out the orifice when we can get them with a bigger size?

bump

Does anyone know?

bumpity bump bump

I purchased a couple SV10-31 s from a local distrubutor . These guys would not make slots or drill the orifices . Can someone please give me some detailed instruction on how to enlarge the orifices . - Thanks

rkpatt,
I wouldn't drill the orfices since they may leak plus it voids the warranty. Call JEM Technical and ask for Matt at 952-259-4175. They machined my valves. Maybe they can machine your valves and retain your warranty.
Hope this helps
IRman

I'll just call them, thanks...

The valves that I purchased have straight -6 AN / JIC threads so the more common NPT fiitings don't fit. Either you have to use adapters http://www.fittingsandadapters.com/malortofempi.html - or hunt for a barb with that type of male thread .



Possible alternatives -

1. Drill and tap the existing holes for a 3/8 NP pipe thread.

2. A 1/4 NPT fitting sort of threads into the hole and will tighten up . I have run into this in the past on an unheater filter head and used JB Weld to seal the threads and it has held with warmed WVO use for almost 2 years . However, that was on a cheap filter head, no warranty to worry about, and I don't know about the breakdown / expansion problems with the JB Weld etc at 160-180 degrees F . It sure is tempting to do here (no more parts to buy and do it today ).

I wonder if this is a common occurence for the hydraforce valves, or maybe is was just one of the distributors that gave it to you that way? That sounds really weak that they wouldn't drill or slot your valves. I'm going to spend some time this week and call ALL of the distributors across the country if I have to to find the best price, and service.

I can't say but I wish I had ordered from this place where InframanII got his - Call JEM Technical and ask for Matt at 952-259-4175.

Now about those fiitings.....

quote:

Originally posted by liveoily:
I wonder if this is a common occurence for the hydraforce valves, or maybe is was just one of the distributors that gave it to you that way? That sounds really weak that they wouldn't drill or slot your valves. I'm going to spend some time this week and call ALL of the distributors across the country if I have to to find the best price, and service.

the drilling of these valves was misinformation from dieselcoffee(I think it was given to him by someone else).
These valves cannot be drilled out for more flow(the Alum. body can be drilled, but no benefit).
The aluminum body is not the limiting factor for flow, but the spool is.

For more flow you need a larger valve(bigger spool).
I did some flow test on my 2004 Dodge Cummins.
Chris posted the results here:
http://www.frybrid.com/forum/showthread.php?t=5391

thanks for making me aware that they cannot be drilled. However, the link to frybrid doesn't really help, I need to know when odering it it's like a sv10-31 or something.

Which model are the frybrid "high flow", SV10-31?

Can anyone who has these modified valves disassemble the valve and post some pictures of the modifications for improved flow ( slotting / drilling ). - Thanks

quote:

Originally posted by rkpatt:
Can anyone who has these modified valves disassemble the valve and post some pictures of the modifications for improved flow ( slotting / drilling ). - Thanks

Again these valves can not be drilled out to increase flow.

http://www.hydraforce.com/Solenoid/Sol-pdf/1-368-1.pdf

SV10-31-6T-V-12DL

the 6T equals -6 AN ORB(O-ring boss) which is 3/8
8T would be -8AN or 1/2"