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I have fuel leaking from the front of my engine. My mechanic says it is the seal for the injector pump. He thinks it is acidic WVO that has eaten the seal, but no problem, a rebuilt pump and new seal and $1,000 will fix it. It seems a bit steep. Anyone know if the seal can be replaced easily? I don't want to have the pump rebuilt, it was done 2 years ago.

I have a theory. I have been running diesel for a few weeks because my WVO tank was being fixed. Does WVO swell seals? Then when I go back to diesel for a few weeks, they shrink and leak?

Thanks

Peter


1983 Mitsubishi Mighty Max with a modified Greasecar conversion.
 
Location: Stouffville, Ontario | Registered: 08 September 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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If it is a bosch pump you should be able to replace the seals quite easily. The VW forums would have all the info you need, if it is a bosch pump.


98 Jetta TDI with aluminim tank HotFox fuel pickup, HOH, FPHE, Coolant Heated VW Oil Cooler Filter,VegTherm, Injector Line Heaters, 6 port Pollak, and 3 port Pollak for Backflushing veg. filter
60,000 grease miles
B100 - B20 Main Tank Fuel depending on outdoor temps.

83 Benz 240D 3 Gallon purge fuel tank, Heated Pickup Stock Tank, 12V pump, HOH, Coolant Heated Filter, 16 Plate FPHE, Injector Line Heaters, 2 Greasecar Valves, Looped on Veg., Return to tank diesel.and Injector overflow return to veg. tank
 
Location: Vergennes, VT USA | Registered: 16 May 2003Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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quote:
I have fuel leaking from the front of my engine. My mechanic says it is the seal for the injector pump. He thinks it is acidic WVO that has eaten the seal, but no problem



I gotta figure that if your veggie was really acidic enough to eat a seal, it would have killed your IPs guts already.

I think seals are less vulnerable to acid than steel, due to the chemistry involved (seal material being relativey inert compared to steel).

I could be wrong...
 
Registered: 26 September 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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If you have the ability to set your injection timing, then seal it yourself, the seal is probably $6 (used to be $2 but the dollar is now worth 1/3 of what is was last week). There is a link on how to rebuild a VE pump here: http://www.frybrid.com/forum/showthread.php?t=6956 but just replacing the face seal is simple, remove the old one with a seal remover or screw driver and install a new one. Replace your timing belt while you are there as BIO will turn the belt into mush, then the pistons will come up when the valves are down and bang $$$$
 
Registered: 19 July 2004Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Replace your timing belt while you are there as BIO will turn the belt into mush



I didn't see any mention of biodiesel in Mistels post, Chris.

Would leaking WVO deteriorate a timing belt also?

I think WVO will breat down natural rubber, but I'm not sure what most timing belts are made of (natural rubber vs synthetic).
 
Registered: 26 September 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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On my styndine pump there is a rubber seal where the tube from the fuel pump runs into the injector pump. Make sure it is not that cheap seal.
 
Registered: 22 March 2008Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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funny thing, I fixed my tank, ran the truck on WVO and it does not leak anymore. Odd


1983 Mitsubishi Mighty Max with a modified Greasecar conversion.
 
Location: Stouffville, Ontario | Registered: 08 September 2005Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Does WVO swell seals? Then when I go back to diesel for a few weeks, they shrink and leak?


LSD swelled seals, transitioning to WVO or ULSD shrank them and started leaks. Going back to LSD would re-swell the seals.


Single-tank Elsbett VW TDI
http://ctbiodzl.freeshell.org/votdi.html
and a '92 F-250 with only a FPHE
 
Location: Ct,USA | Registered: 19 November 2001Reply With QuoteEdit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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