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Hello!

I know it's been a while (got busy with school), but I'm back with another question. Smile

On my F-250, I've got two fuel tanks. I'm wanting to be able to run WVO out of both of them (with a small diesel tank for starting), but I'm somewhat wary about running coolant a total of over 40 feet to the tanks and back to the engine. Also, I imagine that there's a chance of a coolant heat exchanger leaking antifreeze into the fuel tank. Also, given that it takes my truck a while to heat up as-is, I would guess that the extra coolant run may make it difficult for the truck to heat up, or could even make the truck run cool in cold weather.

So, other than "free" heat, is there a major advantage to heating the fuel tanks with coolant as opposed to using an electric heater? How much would a 12 volt heater cost?

Yes, I'm trying to start a debate Smile Any thoughts would be appreciated...thanks in advance! I'm trying to do things on a tight budget...


1985 Mercedes-Benz 300D turbo (fed. emissions)
1984 Ford F-250 4x4, 6.9l diesel, 4sp gearbox
 
Location: Palo Alto, CA, and the U.S. of A. | Registered: 10 May 2004Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Most (i think all) of your answers can be found using the FIND SEARCH function here at the top of this thread. Enjoy and utilize the wealth of info you will find.


David Norwood

2001 F350 7.3 DI purchased new by me and i believe it is the first DI Ford experimented with and talked about on this forum. The single OEM fuel tank only.

Updated 1/2009 .
HOH for fuel line heat from tank to 12v lift pump. GPI/CIM-TEK spin on filterhead and 10 micron filter. Two 12v 36" heaters wrapped around metal fuel lines. One before add on filter and one before OEM filter.dttk44@bellsouth.net

Cool weather mixes starting spring 2009. 100% vo to 65*. 5% K1 to 55*. 10% K1 to 45*. 20% K1 to 35*. 30% K1 to 10*.
 
Location: Upstate South Carolina , USA | Registered: 28 December 2003Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Hey Warden,

Good to see you over here! Smile I haven't posted on the Diesel Stop for a while, but it has been very helpful to me and I read it regularly. I bought my truck with the primary purpose of running WVO in it, and have done so since the second week I owned it.

I never mention that I run WVO/Blend in my truck over there, because I'm afraid that the first answer to any question I have about a problem will be "Oh, it's because you are running vegetable oil"... know what I mean?? Big Grin I'm just running "fuel" and hope to get objective answers and input about my truck.

Anyway, you might want to try running a blend, like I do. I don't heat my tanks at all, and I don't have any problems. Since you are in California, you might be in a warm enough area to do the same. Smile


Good Vegging and God Bless!!
24,000 veggie/blend miles and counting! Smile

Kugel

1991 Ford F350 7.3LNA Diesel ZF5/5-speed tranny: Currently running unheated 75/25 WVO/RUG Blend [WVO - 5 micron prefiltered and regular unleaded gasoline mix] + Power Service Diesel Kleen 6-point Cetane Booster; removed mechanical lift pump, added single electric fuel "push" pump (NAPA #6101049), back near tanks; Fram #G15 (10) micron inline filter at main Fuel Filter inlet; looped IJP return line Tees back into Fuel Filter inlet; Injector return lines still go to stock selector valve and tanks; Fuel Filter Air Bleed tees back into Injector return line. So far, she's running GREAT!!
 
Location: South Alabama, USA | Registered: 20 October 2002Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Warden, because you're in the Bay Area, you shouldn't need to heat your tanks at all - we've converted about 10 F-250's and a Powerstroke at our Berkeley workshop, and none of them have tank heating. With a looped return, and with 3/8" or 1/2" ID rubber fuel hose, run hose-on-hose style with coolant to and from a coolant-heated fuel filter,and with replacing the stock fuel lift pump with a Holley Blue electric fuel pump (and using a big block Chevy fuel block-off plate at the removed stock lift pump) you'll be fine.

If you want to be able to take the truck to Tahoe or other colder places, you could run Kugel's blend. We sell 12V and 120V stick-on pad fuel tank heaters - you could use both, and use the 120V style heater, to pre-warm the tank, then let the 12V heater take over when the engine's running, but you'd need two, and they're 20A each, so you'd need to upgrade your alternator (and we sell 150A alternators.)

If you want to heat the tanks with coolant, I'd suggest (and not just because we sell them) that you use a Racor HotSTK - made for big rigs, totally bulletproof, with no risk of loosing your coolant into your fuel, toasting your heads and getting WVO in your radiator - all of which can happen with other means of introducing heat exchange into your fuel tank.

Craig


www.PlantDrive.com

1972 Land Rover Defender/Series Hybrid, 300Tdi, Two-Tank PlantDrive system: HotFox, Vormax, Vegtherm Standard
Wife's car: 2001 VW Tdi New Beetle: PlantDrive TwoTank system: Donut tank for start-stop, VegMax, Vegtherm standard, 3-3-port valves, controller
 
Location: Berkeley, California, USA | Registered: 04 March 2002Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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If you're worried about coolant, follow Dieselrover's advice and try the HotStik.

There's also a similar product by Arctic Fox out of Minnesota:

http://www.arctic-fox.com/sitepages/pid40.php

Best of luck!


------------------------------
1983 Toyota LARDcruiser BJ60
diesel start/purge & canola cruisin' since April 2004!
www.coolideas.ca
 
Location: Alberta, Canada | Registered: 22 August 2003Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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Adding a heater to those tanks is a PITA. But if you never plan to drive where the temp is cold enough to gel the vegoil that mey not be a problem. If you decide to add a coolant powered heater you can make your own much cheaper than you can buy the ones designed for diesel fuel tanks but they are difficult to install unless you have a threseded port brazed into the tanks. Then installation is a snap. Having a drain valve brazed in the bottom of each tank will serve you well too. If you ever get water accumulating in them or inadvertantly pour unfiltered wvo in you will be very thankful for the drain.

As for the coolant heated fuel line loop..insulate it and you will not notice the heat loss. I have been runnign my F250 test mule "Bessie" for over 50,000 miles now (even in sub zero weather) and have been very happy with it. But I swiched from the stock tanks to a 5o gallon in bed tank last year and have been much happier. If you decide to use the stock tanks make sure you modify the filler necks or it will take forever to fill up with vegoil due to the higher (than diesel) visosity when cool.

As far as usig 12v to heat the lines and tank...I have tested this ...and it is just not efficient. Use (waste) coolant heat as much as possible..you may want to use the 12v for boosting the temp of your vegoil at the filter abover what it can be brough to with coolant heat exchangers.


Dana
दान

danalinscott@yahoo.com
http://vegoilconversions.netfirms.com/

VegOil Conversions by Dana Linscott- VO Conversion
Consultation for large and small trucks, VO fuel related businesses, and co-generation(power/heat)projects,
 
Location: Central MN..Brrrrrr! | Registered: 06 November 2001Edit or Delete MessageReport This Post
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